Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB500/550 => Topic started by: Topcat on February 17, 2019, 04:32:31 PM
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Hey guys,
Have been attempting to split cases for a while now as I want to inspect the internals as there was a fair amount of gunk in the sump and a lot of other worrying signs throughout the bike.
I'm having an issue and want to avoid rushing in and doing more damage to the cases. First I've managed to mostly break the seal between the two cases on the side of the oil filter but on the back side of the engine it seems to be completely solid. I've checked and re checked I've removed all the bolts and really want to avoid prying anywhere. I think it might be getting stuck on either the little dowel pin things (other places on the engine these have been really rusty) so soaking the thing with penetrating oil and using heat but nothing appears to be giving.
Any suggestions on what to do around this area to avoid damaging the mating surfaces?
Edit: forgot to mention this is a CB550F2
Thanks
Topcat
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There are a couple of bolts from the top down which frequently get forgotten about
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There are a couple of bolts from the top down which frequently get forgotten about
On the following diagram which bolts are you referring to or are they not listed?
https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/honda-cb550f2-super-sport-550-four-1977-england-crankcase_big00026138e12_0ee6.gif
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All the ones shown on the top pic plus no 22 on the bottom mate, even after years of doing them i ocassionaly get a brain fog about the odd one
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If not 22. Then have you drawn out the primary shaft ?
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Something is reminding me there is a plate behind the clutch as well, by the way easiest way to remove primary is to remove oil pump and use a soft drift on end of shaft.
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Cheers for the help guys, turns out it was just hanging up in a number of places and a bit more careful wiggling and the help of a friend and it came free. Still glad i didn't try and force it. Next step is to inspect the internals but need to clear a clean space for this bit so that'll be in a few days time.
Topcat
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As a 500 always replace the primary and cam chains plus the rubbers in the promary cush drive, also inspect the selectors, especialy the middle one, carefully.
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As a 500 always replace the primary and cam chains plus the rubbers in the promary cush drive, also inspect the selectors, especialy the middle one, carefully.
Will do, was planning on the chains but good to know about the primary drive cush rubbers. I'll replace these as well now. With regard to the bearings are these worth replacing and are they even available anymore? If not do you have any tips for cleaning them out and repacking or should this be avoided?
Cheers
Topcat
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To assess the bearings (if they are removed from other components) you can wash them in clean paraffin, then blow out with compressed air gun.
They should then by checked for play and rotated to see if they are smooth running with no real noise while rotating.
Finally, dip them in clean engine oil (they are normally run in this when running) and again check they rotate smoothly. They should be silent like this, any noise and loose feeling you'd be looking at replacement.
Depending on original mileage they can stay in surprisingly good condition if the oil has been changed as it should.
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Been busy exeremcising but would agree with above, ball races rarely need changing but check the needle rollers(and shafts) closely as people have reported some failures.
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Been busy exeremcising
Normally I can work out what you mean by some of your more mangled keyboard work Bryan.
Not this time
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Been busy exeremcising
Normally I can work out what you mean by some of your more mangled keyboard work Bryan.
Not this time
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Steve, at a guess remove the 3rd e and the m from the last word, excercising?
Sent from my X6pro using Tapatalk
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Could be a mash up of "exorcism " and "memorising " which causes people to make those shite programs about ghost. ;D
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You lot leave my dyslexic keyboard alone! Still trying to work a smartphone with huge fingers damaged by years of big hammers. I had been to the gym, otherwise known as torture, to practice for my DVLA execise test and was consequently extremely tired.
Thats my story and i'm sticking to it!
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Substitute "Years of big hammers" for "Lots and lots of beer" and "Gym" for "pub" and it makes sense.
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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I wish people, not had alcohol for over 6 months! Or salt, sugar mimimal fats etc etc, cant even have me favourite sarnies---------have you seen the amount of salt in bread and ham!
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So what you mean is you are not living, merely existing a drawn out torture!
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At least im breathing and able to cuddle my georgeous young wife, plus rebuild No 36(when i can earn some cash!)
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I wish people, not had alcohol for over 6 months! Or salt, sugar mimimal fats etc etc, cant even have me favourite sarnies---------have you seen the amount of salt in bread and ham!
I don’t drink a lot of beer but when the doctor told me I had to cut down on salt, sugar and fats I ripped the piece of paper up and threw it away. I cut out chemicals and processed foods and feel a thousand percent better. I just eat proper food that still tastes good to eat.
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You aint got a wife thats 23 yrs younger than you and paranoid about anything happening!
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Making progress on the disassembly got pretty much everything out apart from the rear drum gear (the side with the neutral switch the fixings are completely rusted solid and starting to strip). I've been giving it a good soaking with penetrating oil and trying to use an impact on it while holding the drum but obviously this isn't the most effective. Any better suggestions on how to remove these without destroying them?
Cheers
Topcat
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The drum should just slide out after removing neutral rotor(1 screw) drum detent and roller plus selector clips and pins.
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The drum should just slide out after removing neutral rotor(1 screw) drum detent and roller plus selector clips and pins.
Yeah it's that one screw that I a struggling with, will post a pic later but basically that screw is stuck and when turning the drum turns so not really able to free it.
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Yup, next timp you will undo that screw just after removing sprocket cover!
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Yup, next timp you will undo that screw just after removing sprocket cover!
Haha yeah, guess this is all a learning experience. Managed to get that one free finally but the one next to it holding the rest of the mechanism in place is nearly stripped :(
[attach=1]
Also managed to get a close up of the middle selector fork. Looks a bit knackered, assume I'll need to get a new one. Thoughts?
[attach=2]
[attach=3]
[attach=4]
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If you can find a new centre selector expect to pay a LOT of money for it but its the same as old 250/350 twin(K3/K4) and they 350 box turns up in the US regularly so buy the box on ebay and tell the seller just to ship the forks and drum.
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Thats a 550 dog Bryan, not a 500 ;)
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Sorry forgot, even worse the F2 is a different part number from the US K model and both are unavailable. Trig what about hard chrome and regrind, or stellite weld and regrind?
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Thats a 550 dog Bryan, not a 500 ;)
you are on the ball yes its a 550. Are these just as rare i assume?
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The part you require is 24212-390-000 and is indeed getting hard to source.
There is a NOS one in Sweden for 771 krona but no idea how that much is in £
Luckily I think I've managed to source one...well hopefully we'll see when it arrives :)
Still got to sort the other screw for the neutral switch assembly then clean everything up. But slowly slowly.
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These can look worst than they are sometimes. I have pulled the same looking dog out of engine that had no problems . Did you have a problem with the gearbox in the first instance ? Have you measured up the dog in question ?