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Messages - Laverda Dave
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2461
« on: July 31, 2016, 11:51:04 AM »
I fitted Hagons to my original 400 and replaced them within 6 months, too hard, great on the 350 Morini though  I have bought a pair of TEC's for the 400 project, good price and really nice finish with good reports of handling. Good enough for me  Dave
2462
« on: July 12, 2016, 11:01:18 PM »
Welcome to a great forum, fantastic people on here, you'll enjoy it. Good luck with the projects, start with the 400 
2463
« on: July 11, 2016, 02:03:07 PM »
Really, really nice bike. Congratulations on a great build.
2464
« on: July 04, 2016, 10:06:41 PM »
Hi All, I noticed I have asked an awful lot of questions to the forum members since I started the project 400/4. I kept promising to post a few photos of progress to-date. I have finally got around to downloading some images of 'What I bought' to 'Where I am now' (July 2016). I hope to get the bike finished and MOT'd for mid-August as that's when the other half will be taking her bike test and this is going to be her new bike Dave
2465
« on: July 04, 2016, 08:57:57 PM »
Looks like a great place to visit, very nice bikes from what I can see in your photos Ash. There's some nice places around there near to the coast, if the other half passes her direct access in August that could be our first joint trip on her newly restored 400/4 Dave
2466
« on: July 04, 2016, 08:41:19 PM »
Success . I made up a 42mm drift from a piece of solid nylon bar (I actually bought it months ago to make some hinges for the front gate but had enough left to make the drift). This fitted the outside bearing race perfectly. I was able to give the drift and bearings some seriously heavy thumps with a bolster hammer. The bearing on the side of the dust seal moved about .5mm but it was enough to give the free play in the spindle I needed. I did check the spacer to bearing fit after and pleased to say the spacer does still have some free play, not much but enough for it to self centre when the spindle is inserted. Thank you to everyone for the advice, very much appreciated. What a great forum and bunch of people on here . Dave PS - If it wasn't for my little Myford lathe I couldn't have made the drift (or the gate hinges  ), seriously, everyone should have a lathe worth their weight in gold
2467
« on: July 03, 2016, 05:05:43 PM »
Thanks Chris, Looks like I was sold a duffer then  . I know Mr Pusher had one from a 350/4 and he said it was shorter so I didn't bother buying his one  There's normally one or two 350/4 kickstarts on e-bay for sale in the States, they go for between 60-100 pounds but when you add on the customs it works out very expensive as I found out I've just popped indoors for a mug of splosh and a 'cooling down break' after taking apart and reassembling the front wheel spindle half a dozen times today and still having the same problem! Dave
2468
« on: July 03, 2016, 04:54:53 PM »
Hi all,
I think I might have a problem with the front wheel spindle of the 400 project bike and I'm looking for some guidance.
I have installed new wheel bearings supplied by DS into both sides of the wheel. The spacer has been been refitted as per instructions however...... when I install the wheel spindle and torque it up to the setting as described within the Haynes manual of between 36-39lbs the spindle goes solid, i.e the wheel will not turn on the spindle. Finger tight all is fine but anything more and it gets harder and harder to spin the wheel.
All the correct spacers have been installed, the new bearings are 'home' and the wheel spindle is greased and everything moves freely. I did notice the bearings supplied from DS are sealed on both sides of the actual bearing where as the ones that came out have the balls exposed on one side although I do not know if these were genuine (and they were worn anyway). I also noticed the spacer between the bearings have three 'tangs' on each end of the spacer, are these supposed to locate inside the exposed side of the wheel bearings, although obviously they wont locate in the DS supplied bearing as they are sealed!
It appears as though the wheel spindle nut is pushing hard on the adjacent spacer that goes through the dust seal and this is pushing onto the inner bearing race and compressing everything solid?
Am I doing something wrong, is the spindle nut supposed to be torqued as per the Haynes manual or is this one of the Haynes errors?
Dave
2469
« on: July 03, 2016, 04:28:07 PM »
Chris,
I bought a 350/4 lever and knuckle from the USA thinking they were the same. After getting stung by customs and getting it home and unwrapping it I found the lever itself was about 50mm shorter compared to the genuine one fitted to my other 400/4.
At least I got the knuckle which was all I really wanted as the one with the 'project' had the usual crack in it making it useless, I already had the spare lever and now both are re-chromed they look the part.
Maybe Mr Pusher has one for sale, he did have a very nice 350/4 he was breaking or try Steve Cooper.
As an aside, I waited nearly 2 years for NLM to re-manufacture swan neck kickstart levers for the 350's to clear aftermarket rearsets. They had exactly the same issues as DS with quality problems and the levers snapping. They got some made eventually in the UK I understand.
Dave
2470
« on: July 03, 2016, 11:09:18 AM »
The knuckle is the same between a 350/4 and a 400/4 but the kickstart shaft itself is shorter on the 350.
2471
« on: June 20, 2016, 02:27:35 PM »
Hi Ash,
Excuse my ignorance but how do I navigate to your VJMC CB750 lower fork leg refurb article? I cannot seem to navigate to it via the site.
I'm just about to go into the man cave now with a huge mug of splosh and digestives to assemble the newly blasted lower fork legs.
Dave
2472
« on: June 20, 2016, 02:23:31 PM »
This is how my 400 engine rebuild journey started! When I was 17 I traded in my CB200 for a s/h 400/4 from D&H Motorcycles in Acton.
It was a great bike, a red F model. It was previously owned by an older gent who had fitted a huge barn door fairing, massive top box and suitcase sized panniers complete with front and rear crashbars. I removed all of it within a couple of days including the front crashbar.
I replaced the bolt and went for a ride, when I arrived home the engine was smothered in oil. The crashbar mounting bolt had replaced the original lower engine mounting bolt and was slightly longer to take into account the 3mm crashbar mounting lug. it was too long and split the lower engine case when I replaced it although I didn't notice at the time.
I tried the epoxy glue, liquid metal, chewing gum, body filler method and nothing worked. I ended up buying a s/h engine from Frank in Ealing when he used to break bikes in a garden shed!
6 months and many miles later I took the engine apart to replace the cam chain on the dinning room table (the tin of linklife chain lube was boiling up on the gas stove and the cylinder head replaced the leg of lamb in the oven at the same time).
2473
« on: June 20, 2016, 01:52:11 PM »
I have rebuilt four 400 engines over the years and they have all had the same issue as yours does. As I normally have the engines apart for a rebuild I use a fine file to clean up where the aluminium casting has been turned over by the flapping cam chain.
I've never had a problem with any engines following the rebuild and file surgery although I always install a new cam chain, both tensioner blades and the sprung tensioner horseshoe making sure the tensioner plunger has no markings caused by previous owners over-tightening the tension adjuster.
2474
« on: June 20, 2016, 01:40:09 PM »
That's a very nice bike, the colour suits the location 
2475
« on: June 16, 2016, 11:52:43 PM »
I second that thought, great site. Thanks Steve.
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