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Topics - masonmart
1
« on: November 20, 2020, 03:18:33 PM »
Having finished my Dresda 500 I'm trying to get it running well. Have experienced a problem whereby the bike starts on choke, In warming, it initially runs on no choke but after a while coughs and then stops running. Leave it for a while and this repeats. We hooked up an exhaust gas mixture probe and what happens is that on choke it has the correct mixture for normal running, is too lean when the choke is opened but then the exhaust just gets leaner and leaner and eventually gets so lean it doesn't run. The fuel supply is from an elevated tank and the fuel lines run fine.
This happens with the engine on tickover but it seems not to happen when the throttle is opened into the area where it is running on the main jet not the slow running jet. On my brit bikes I'd look at checking the slow running jets and perhaps raising the needle a notch but I'm not sure with these carbs but I have them off the bike now and will check the jets. Any thoughts on this lean issue, especially why it would just keep on leaning out and stopping. The obvious thought is fuel starvation but the supply seems good.
2
« on: August 23, 2020, 08:25:52 PM »
Having finished my Dresda CB500 and registered it I've at last had chance to run it. It ran like a dream but the battery flattened so no charge. It had been left outside for 40+years so my guess it is the alternator but not my area of expertise. A quick look around seems to show that they are rare or, if NOS, very expensive. Can anybody advise on possible solutions like aftermarket parts, rewinding or anything else I may be able to look at?
Many thanks.
3
« on: December 17, 2019, 07:39:15 PM »
It's been asked before but I have a newly assembled Dresda CB500 and I can hardly pull in the clutch. I could never take the bike out as it is because I wouldn't be able to change gear after about the first two changes. Is this normal and is there any possible way that I can somehow improve it?
4
« on: December 12, 2019, 03:13:08 PM »
From an early manual
Assembly of Japanese Motorcycle requires great peace of mind.
How true.
5
« on: December 03, 2019, 05:49:00 PM »
So sorry that this isn't Honda 4 related this time but I now have a couple of projects that I could only have dreamed about and may bring good memories for those who knew the bikes first time around.
First is a cache of parts to build a complete new Avenger A7. This was a 350cc disc valve twin with an amazing turn of speed. I already have one but this is to build what is effectively a new bike. Parts are NOS or (like frame) professionally restored better than new. Should have the parts in December and will post pics from what I hope is a successful assembly.
Also found a similar parts cache for a 1971 H1 triple. I just can't believe it. I'm at the back end of my biking life but the opportunity to do this assembly and then ride these amazing bikes is beyond belief. Pics will be forthcoming.
6
« on: October 25, 2019, 07:05:57 PM »
This is about the finished article apart from cosmetics and a few small jobs. Runs well and I think with a bit more hard work it can be made into a really good little bike. The original Dresda was a production racer but I didn't want a fairing and clip ons and tbh it looks OK for me, far better than I expected and I've learned so much, like don't ever start such ridiculous restorations of scrap heaps for which there are only engine parts available.
I have to put some decals now on the tank and side panels. I have some Dresda ones from DD but can anybody give me some thoughts on what would make it look nice but more on the understated side. I believe that to match the engine they should be silver?
Many thanks
7
« on: March 27, 2019, 05:53:57 PM »
This is a picture of my Thruxton Velocette that was built in 2014 from all NOS parts from Geoff Dodkin's (the Velo Guru) final stock, one of only two made from those spares. With a genuine 40+bhp and low weight it goes really well and I've improved it by fitting a Nova 5-speed box to get rid of the high first gear and by changing the GP carb for a Mikuni unit which has a tickover. These mods transform it from being a very difficult bike to being a true joy to ride. I get the pleasure to ride it maybe once a week in the good weather season, I don't hold up the traffic but may surprise some drivers with the thunder from the fish tail silencer. For me they are one of the best looking bikes ever made. I love the Honda GB500TT too which is much more civilised but the original is for me the greatest. This will be the last of my bikes to go or it'll be polished, kept in the living room and eventually left to my kids as an investment when I can't ride it any more
8
« on: March 13, 2019, 07:14:11 PM »
Tried to start my Dresda 500 today but on turning the petrol on found it flooded out of the overflows. Will take them off tomorrow to have a look at the floats and needle valves but any thoughts on what else I may need to look at?
Many thanks
9
« on: March 07, 2019, 08:46:21 PM »
I'm 68 now and I have a small stable of 4 classic bikes and use them all. I'd have no problem with using any, even on longish distance runs and think that to keep them running well it's essential. I also have a modern bike, a '97 VFR750 that I have kept despite not really using it; I don't think I'll ever use it as it can and should be used. I love VFRs and have done lots of miles on several that I've owned but, stripping out the emotion, is there any justification in keeping a bike that you don't use and are unlikely to use and you have other bikes you can use. It's unlikely to appreciate in value but it won't kill me keeping it and I don't desperately need the amount of money I could get for it. I can see two opposing options. The first is that I just keep it as it won't do any harm and I may one day use it; the second is why keep a bike and not use it, the space in the garage would be handyish and they are a bit of a heavy bike to maul around for me now. Logically I'd say that I should sell but what would others do in a similar situation?
I'm having a crisis on what I need to have as I approach 70.
10
« on: March 02, 2019, 10:40:03 AM »
I'd been keeping my eyes open for a Kawasaki Avenger A7 for many years as right up on my list of lusted after bikes that I couldn't afford in the day, they were almost unique in having disc valves and, for me, looks to die for. I found one at the right price last year but it seized badly because of a botched engine assembly which had cracked the crankcase. The engine has been restored now and just needs putting back in the bike, looks marvellous. Anyways, like the proverbial London bus I've found another one that has been disassembled and restored and just needs carefully putting back together, all parts are available including new bearings, seals and pistons, etc. The one I got last year was a later one that looks like a triple with the coffin tank, the second is one of the early ones with chrome panels on the tank. These bikes were seriously fast and would show most bikes of the day a clean rear. They were also light, handled beautifully and howled like only the 2Ts of the day could. The price is fair I'm getting old now and am seriously trying to reduce my stable of bikes. Could somebody please talk me out of buying the second one. I mean, like my wife says, it is just ridiculous to have two 
11
« on: December 18, 2018, 10:18:26 PM »
I bought a project bike to keep me busy in retirement but, as a complete numpty, I bought the worst possible bike to restore, a big bore 605cc engine in a Dresda lightweight frame which had obviously been binned with damaged casings, bent forks, etc. A completely non-standard bike with mainly no parts available. I had wonderful help from Dave and Russell at Dresda but I abandoned it once the cost had flown past £8k, accelerating and with no end in sight. At that time it looked good but I'd rebuilt the engine and there were things I wasn't sure I'd done OK. I couldn't get the right shell bearing sizes and this may have caused the engine to be hard to turn over, the clutch rod had snapped and it was hard to operate which I think was just heavy springs. I may have also put the wrong O-ring seals on the cylinder studs on the basis that they were all that was left in the kit rather than the correct ones. I've decided to try to finish it now with help from Dresda on the basis of the challenge and that it could also be a tasty bike in the end and pretty special.
The bike has inherent worth in parts especially the Dresda frame, big bore engine, beautiful wheels, new clocks, etc., that is cut my losses and get as much value as I can from the bits at a loss of maybe £4k The other options are to keep on going as a project and get it good which means the current £8k plus maybe £2k to finish it and then what? The other option is to just have it as a permanent project and get nothing back from it. Would appreciate any thoughts on this.
12
« on: October 01, 2016, 03:07:38 PM »
As I mentioned I'm putting together a Dresda lightweight with a big bore kitted CB500 engine and had to fully disassemble the engine as the crankcase was cracked in several places. Anyway, it's together and I've now managed to get a Magura clutch lever on, fit a cable and get the cltch operating. The cable and actuation seem fine but the lever needs a lot of force to operate it. A question for you good folk, were the clutches heavy? If not what could cause the heaviness other than say heavy springs? Did people put heavy springs in?
I called a lad who advertised a late CB550/4 in Old Bike Mart this morning. £2100 and looked good but somebody'd agreed to take it. That's a lot of bike for the money.
13
« on: August 17, 2016, 01:57:24 PM »
Has anybody ever fitted a non-standard mudguard at the front? I'm thinking of a lightweight mudguard that doesn't fit via stays to the fork ends. It's going on a cafe racer so the standard unit would look terrible. Anybody sell this type of mudguard to fit the CB500/550 forks. There are bracket fixing points but the LHS ones are used to fix the caliper holder.
MM
14
« on: July 28, 2016, 05:01:12 PM »
Just finished assembling a CB500 engine. I'd had to change the crankcases because they were cracked and I couldn't get the right main bearing shells for the replacement case/crank match. Anyway, what I've found is that even with no plugs in it's difficult to turn it over on the kick start. I can turn it over by hand using the generator. I had the casings all Cerakote coated and I have a horrible feeling he may have done the insides and the mains and camshaft bearings are gripping but maybe not. It has a 605cc kit fitted but it was never run.
This is my first build and I'm sure that the gearbox is fine and the valves and everything else does what they're supposed to do but is this something that can be seen on rebuilds and are there any fixes
15
« on: June 24, 2016, 08:17:14 PM »
I'm building a CB500 special from an old neglected bike and was worried about the ancient corroded switchgear. You can find good stuff for a prince's ransom but luckily I found an alternative. I also own a Kawasaki Z900A which has switchgear identical in function to the CB500, same number of wires from the same places but with different colours and the only other difference being cable that stays on the underside of the bars rather than through holes. Far better in my opinion.
Z-Power sell these RH and LH units for around £70 a pair new.
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