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Messages - Mr_Sheene
46
« on: July 16, 2018, 10:44:04 AM »
It looks a good day out but it's a three hour drive from here and back again. Perhaps I could visit my sister?
47
« on: July 15, 2018, 12:26:24 PM »
Here I go, displaying my ignorance again. Where or what is Crich? I keep seeing comments about it, as if it's a jumble but apart from a small village in Derbyshire I can't find any references Crich and old bikes. I thought that it might be VJMC but 'area searched - no trace'.
48
« on: June 17, 2018, 03:49:55 PM »
A beautiful job James and a nice set of useful pictures for a 'newbie' like me. I'll go through this piece a few times with a note pad, as the dates of production line mods is confusing on a good day. It's just that I've been in the garage to look at mine and now feel thoroughly depressed. I'm just off to a dark room now for a quiet cry. I may be some time.
49
« on: May 01, 2018, 11:06:17 AM »
It's the Vent Port/By-Pass Port. The piston can't return correctly without it, so you do need it. It should not be enlarged. It's there to allow equilibrium. Please have a look at have a look at https://www.freeasestudyguides.com/brake-master-replenishing-port.htmlThis explains it better than I can. Also, when you rebuild the M/C, make sure that the port is not blocked inside, by the positioning of the piston/seals. I know this because I once thought that I was so clever that I could improve the brakes on my R90S. I was wrong - not for the first time!
50
« on: February 21, 2018, 11:40:34 AM »
Thanks Julie, I didn't know that there was different forms of Powder Coating. The Commando was Powder Coated by a firm specialising in Motorcycles in Birmingham, via a reputed Norton specialist. I'll have a word with him next time I go to see my sister. How do you tell the difference until it deforms? I have been 'bitten' three times and will still avoid it in future but I did start my last reply as, Heavens 'Unlucky' Experiment. I don't know what's on my CB750, as it came Powder Coated but judging by the rest of his work, it won't be the best. To get back to the origin of this piece though, Powder Coating does polish up well in my experience with a bit of effort.
51
« on: February 20, 2018, 05:22:59 PM »
Allowing for the fact that I'm Heaven's 'Unlucky' Experiment, the last two powder coated items that I've had, have convinced me that if I'm ever stupid enough to do another restoration, I will have the frame sprayed with two pack. Powder coating is knock resistant but mine seems to go 'soft' when it gets hot; not tricky with an exposed engine. It also 'spirals' when I tighten nuts, bolts or screws onto it; especially when it's hot. As a result I've had small sheets of powder coating around fixings come loose and separate from the frame. I know a good sprayer in Gt Dunmow and he explained to me that it's a form of 'Plastic Paint', which melts into a smooth finish when it goes into the oven. I know other 'restorers' that swear by it but my advice would be the same as above (firet49), rub it down with fine abrasives and then polish it. If you have any small marks, a dab of Smoothrite works well for me.
52
« on: February 12, 2018, 01:06:24 PM »
On the subject of originality, they're only truly original if they're not used. This one was used and sold on. A few years ago in the affluent world of old Bentleys, I seem to remember a court case, where the buyer of a prestigious racing Bentley wanted his money back, as he said it wasn't the original car. To cut a long story backwards, I seem to remember the judge saying the car had been used and parts naturally wore and broke, only to be replaced with new parts from Bentley. His sage decision was that it was the original car. Basically, what did the purchaser expect, original air in the tyres? In the case of this bike, it depends how much the purchaser wants it and then, does he/she leave it as it is, as part of the bikes history or do they start looking for parts to return it to its original state; or is that restoring? Complex ain't it? I'm glad I can't afford it!
53
« on: January 29, 2018, 02:29:27 PM »
Mr Davo, many thanks, I thought that it was something that I needed to know. I still text in English. My son despairs!
54
« on: January 29, 2018, 12:27:02 PM »
It's a nice looking bike with the unusual parts but appears to have declined in appearance over the years, although I doubt that'll reduce the final price. I may even visit my sister in Solihull on the day of the auction, just to see the bike in the flesh and see what it goes for. Reading all this, I'm aware of how much of a novice I am in the Temple of the CB750, so please don't stone me but what's AFAIK stand for?
55
« on: January 29, 2018, 11:23:32 AM »
Hello James, The CL450 is nice and it may be a personal favourite of yours but it never set the world on fire or coined an expression like 'Superbike'. I have been giving this some thought and apart from the fact that I need to get out more, Sgt Pinback is correct about restored early bikes. They are becoming more common but un-restored, original, one owner bikes are rare and will stay that way. Regardless of value, it's special and a bit of a treasure. It has to be a personal decision but it's the last thing that I'd sell.
56
« on: January 28, 2018, 11:28:51 AM »
I'm no expert on these matters, as we've discussed and I don't know the condition of the 1969 restored model but if value is relevant, I would keep this bike, as originality and patina have become the 'new religion' in the marketplace. I have a friend who collects classic Triumphs and his most treasured items are now the models in 'original' condition, which seems strange, as he's put no effort into them compared with his 'restored' bikes. For £12K I think it's a bargain.
57
« on: December 30, 2017, 01:45:21 PM »
I had a look in the hope that someone had paid £4600 for something worse than mine but it's about the same. My seller gave me the option of walking away if I wasn't happy, as Swansea was too far for a look but I was daft enough to buy it anyway. So the project begins. Life is a learning curve, even when you're old.
58
« on: December 11, 2017, 12:17:11 PM »
May I go off at a tangent for a moment? According to something I read from 'Nurse Julie' the other day, this is permitted. Is it possible to restore rubber parts? In addition to the CB750, I also have a GT750 awaiting new crank seals. The rubber unions either side of the carbs would make a good alternative to Chobham Armour. In a copy of Practical Sportsbike several years ago, an article said they had soaked rubber parts in a chemical solution that had softened them. In fact they overdid it and made them too soft but the point is, it softened the rubbers. I doubt that this is a secret, so why do so many members replace rubbers, as mentioned above by 'Trigger'? Is it to do with the elasticity of the rubber or degradation?
59
« on: December 09, 2017, 02:22:13 PM »
I know that this topic is old and that may prevent me from being slaughtered, as no one may read it but what is so special about a 'UK bike'? I have been tinkering in this subject for about 25 to 30 years and have often heard people selling a bike, try to promote it as a 'Genuine UK Bike'. So what! To the best of my knowledge, no manufacturer, in any country employed anyone to walk down the line selecting the best examples for the UK. In the UK, it was more likely the export bikes would be better, especially for the lucrative US market. I know that a lot of stuff now coming from the US has a dubious history but a friend, who has a large stable of 60's Triumphs, assures me that we have no idea just how much was sold in the US, compared to Europe and especially our tiny market. On the initial subject of pricing, maybe the problem is e-bay? There are so many tales of 'victims' that people are becoming wary. I was wary but in a moment of madness got caught anyway and panicked into buying a 1970 model (my favourite). Now I don't even look at e-bay.
60
« on: November 28, 2017, 11:28:26 AM »
If you have trouble masking off small items you can get 'liquid mask' from art shops and model shops. It's latex and paints on. When it's dry it forms a rubber barrier over the part you're protecting. Model shops also sell 'low-tack' masking tape in various sizes. The mask can be suspect with some acrylic paints and can 'colour' plastics but I doubt that it'll harm an engine. When dry, you simply rub it off with your fingers.
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