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Topics - SeanFD
1
« on: March 25, 2024, 06:34:46 PM »
Does anyone use in-line fuel filters?
If so which one and where did you get it from?
The ones I had died of old age and the ones I ordered here in France both had a hole in the gauze.
2
« on: December 25, 2023, 01:45:36 PM »
Hi all, Happy Christmas.
With nothing else to do before dinner this afternoon, i decided to use the time to try, finally to get my 400F2 running; yes the same one I started resurrecting during the pandemic.
Anyway, I sorted some minor electrical problems and power was getting to where it was supposed to be (and when). Even thought the battery voltage had fallen to 12,4 or thereabouts, I decided to try and start it up.
It coughed once on the kick start and then nothing. I tried it on the started and then I was hit on the head by the air filter cover.
Here I stopped, as dinner was nearly ready, and I wasn't sure exactly what this meant.
Can anyone explain and advise whether it is safe to try again with a fully charged battery, or have I done something seriously wrong in the rebuild?
3
« on: October 12, 2023, 02:13:19 PM »
I'm almost there ... almost!
I posted by mistake on the US site, but they'll all be in bed still, so apologies for this getting a double post.
I'm trying to adjust the rear brake pedal and spring. The first issue is that the pedal either sits too high or hits the exhaust when depressed.
Looking at the return spring, and having seen several related posts, it all looks to me a bit loose; the spring that is. I have the spring positioned as in the photos, which I think is correct.
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The first photo is with the actuator rod loose to show the position of both ends of the spring (one covered by rubber tube) and the second is with the rod "tight".
Can anyone confirm the spring is correctly located and then advise how to position the brake pedal, using the split in the lever as a reference; I currently have it at about 10 o'clock.
Thanks.
4
« on: October 10, 2023, 10:58:34 AM »
Rounding the corner into the final straight on CB400F restoration; the trouble is that I can't remember the detail of some things done a couple of years back. I'm struggling with the points and timing, but that's another story.
What I need to know is whether there is an oil seal on the gear selector shaft outside the crankcase.
I can see one on the parts fiche (PN 91206-286-005/013), and I have the relevant seal, but looking at the bike, the OD seal is too big for the hole where I don't know if it's supposed to go.
That sort of answers my question, but humour me!
5
« on: October 04, 2023, 04:58:15 PM »
Finally I have got time at "home" to work on my little 400; a restoration that started in Apr 2020 during lockdown.  I have just been struggling to set the timing; I've got new Daiichi points now and the problem is that at full adjustment – plate turned fully anti-clockwise – the timing is considerably retarded. I noted that the sprung contact on 1&4 seems to move about a lot when pushed, and this just confirms the bad rep that this brand of points has. I have an unbranded set that came with the bike and I'm going to try these, even thought they re a little pitted, as the sprung contact seems much tighter. I also understand that juggling the gaps to get the timing right is an option. Meanwhile I been searching EBay and have come across some other brands I've not see before. Has anyone any experience of FEW D-75R points: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112902907765or FEW H41L: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115903276154
7
« on: December 14, 2022, 08:30:42 AM »
Hi,
I'm looking for a KPH speedo to cannibalise to repair my existing speedo.
It's for a CB750 K2; so rhino horn mounting and with trip meter knob underneath.
External appearance not important.
Cheers
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8
« on: September 20, 2022, 10:07:49 AM »
I have a considerable leak from my points cover - CB750 K2/4. Having read related posts it seems the issue is either the crankshaft seal or the o-ring on the advancer shaft or both. O-ring replacement is relatively easy, but there is debate as to whether the seal, which has an outer lip, can be replaced without splitting the cases. Now FASTURD posted on the US site on his similar experience a while back and concluded with this: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,71635.msg868522.html#msg868522 - Go down to post No 22. Having just replaced the head gasket, I do not want to take the engine out again, so I am going to try to check where the leak is coming from and then if necessary try to replace the seal with a non-lipped one as described above. I can get a seal with the correct dimensions, one single-lipped and the other with two lips - internal I think. The second lip is I believe a dust seal. https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=1&keywords1=30&keywords2=42&keywords3=8&Does it matter which one I use and if so which one should I go for?
9
« on: February 02, 2022, 02:48:02 PM »
I spent the last 2 days trying to get the airbox onto my carbs and in the end had to take the carbs off again and remove the rubbers from the airbox itself in order to get them on. Now I have the carbs and airbox as one unit and just have to try to fit that! Looking forward to it!! However before doing that I decided to set the valve clearances. I have no problem with the process, just the tools. As it seems with this project from the start, I am working with a limited set of tools, so I'm struggling. Can someone please confirm the size of the adjusting screw locknut? I think it is 9mm. Also what do folk use to turn the adjusting screw itself? I'm using what I think is a bicycle spoke spanner, but it is far from ideal. Is there anything that works better? Cheers
10
« on: January 25, 2022, 08:51:13 PM »
I've been working on the wiring of my little Rusty and have just got into the headlight bucket.
The parts fiche shows an item called "washer headlight case" used as a nut to hold the headlight in place (No 466 on the diagram)
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This had an earth wire attached (for the indicators as on the CB750K, I'm assuming) but I cannot see the reason for this as the indicators must be earthed on the mounting bracket – at least mine are.
Can anyone confirm this, which means the wiring is un-necessary?
If so also confirm the thread on the mounting bolts; I think it is M10x1.25?
Sean
11
« on: January 20, 2022, 12:29:47 PM »
I’m getting frustrated now! Every time I think I’m making progress I discover I’ve lost a part I know was here 18 months ago  The latest is the little bit of felt that oils the points cam. Is there something I can use in place of getting one from DSS? If I add this to my order, the postage jumps from £2 something to £15 something 
12
« on: April 17, 2021, 01:35:35 PM »
I acquired a 750K1 to restore with an odd front end. I picked up a steering stem at a scrap yard. It looked OK, but on cleaning I discovered it was somewhat oddly shaped at the bottom.
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I don't imagine this is "normal", but is it useable? Or can it be repaired?
13
« on: February 10, 2021, 12:04:11 PM »
Having failed, for now to get my bike (CB450K1) running, - it's a long story involving potentially bent valves and potentially loose cam chain ... – I was looking to see what I could sort out in the meantime. My starter motor hadn't worked from the day I acquired the bike so I decided to try to sort it out.
I stripped it, cleaned it, and checked it out for resistances, shorts etc. Everything, including the bearings and bushes, seemed OK. For some reason, this time - I've rebuilt a couple before – I struggled a bit putting it back together when trying to align the casing marks and get the planetary gears in the right position, but eventually I succeeded.
The motor turned freely, so I thought I was done. Wrong!
I attached it to an old car battery and it turned, but slowly. Even thought the battery was registering 12.8V, it though maybe it just wasn't strong enough, so I next attached it to my Landrover battery. If it can start my Landy, I thought, it should turn this over easily.
Well, again it turned, but still not anywhere near the speed I expected. I tried again and this time it didn't turn at all.
Any thoughts on what could be the cause of this strange behaviour?
14
« on: November 03, 2020, 12:09:07 PM »
When reinstalling the oil pump, is it necessary or advisable to use Hondabons or other sealant on the mating surfaces?
I haven’t seen anything to the contrary so I’m assuming that the torque on the bolts is the standard ones for M6 and M8 bolts.
15
« on: October 12, 2020, 06:24:49 PM »
I have been trying to replace the camshaft Today adn it has been a frustrating exercise; now I need some advice!
I struggled to get the chain onto the sprocket having fed the shaft through both and lined up the marks on the sprocket with the case. After several futile attempts, I resorted to reading the Haynes a bit more closely and discovered that the last pieces of the puzzle were the tensioner and guide. Mine were already in place so I took them out.
Happiness and joy, the chain went on a treat. Now to put back the bits. The tensioner went in fairly easily and will, I hope allow the retainer to tighten down fully The guide is anther thing altogether. I cannot get it to slide down fully.
It was fully seated before I removed it, but now it sits about 1cm high and no amount of pushing, tapping or manipulating the bottom end with a rod will make it go further.
Is there a trick to this? Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.
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