Honda-SOHC

You can do it if you're at all reasonably competent with a spanner.

I did a nut and bolt restoration of my 750 that had sat in boxes for 30 years and my only previous experience was on a CB125S back in 1976.

Apart from all the advice and support you'll get here, have a look at these videos; I found them very useful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MkHJuU01-Wk

Ignore the "cafe racer" bit, its a CB750 total rebuild – in 40 episodes.

He's not infallible, but honest enough to admit a mistake if he makes one; I pointed out and error and a week later he had added a comment to the video.

Although all is now well, a mystery is still lurking in there. There's a brown wire that runs from the 5A fuse to the back light, that's the feed to the rear light not the brake light. That brown wire is connected inside the loom to a brown wire that runs into the headlight bowl, it has a female connector on it. I have left this wire unconnected. For what purpose would a rear light feed run to the headlight area, it's also not shown on any diagrams. Pretty sure I haven't missed anything, but that said it's been put in there for some reason? Another mystery to keep you up at night.

If you look at that thematic - done by one of the guys on the US site - I posted up above, there is a brown wire running from the ignition switch which branches off backwards BUT also has a branch going to the headlight bucket with an unused female connector at the end.

I've been puzzling through this with everyone else.
The earlier 750's only had one fuse - 15A; this setup is no different really as all the power comes through fuse to the the key switch  and then to the lighting and other circuits. So if the main fuse goes, there's nothing

Here's a wiring diagram schematic that seems to be the same asa the one Roy posted, but it has the connection in the dimmer switch correct. The colours are also a bit easier to identify.

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I have a question, though; how many positions are there on the indicator switch? What are the L1/L2 and R1/R2 about? L2 and R2 give you the buzzer and L1 and R1 don't. Is it held on position 1, for a short flash, and locked in position 2 for a longer flash?

I had a similar problem when I changed the handlebar switches on my K2 for later ones. I started with the switches and worked out what each individual switch position would do - e.g. turn on one indicator at switch and see which 2 wires were connected - grey + orange or light blue. Once you know this you can connect the switch wires to the loom wires to do what you want them to do.

Now the white wire from my RH switch (Low beam) turns on the pilot light; the dark blue wire (high beam) goes across to the LH switch to the Hi/Lo/PA switch.

I used a whiteboard and coloured markers as I went along to record everything. Took ages! After it all I drew a schematic using Powerpoint. I won't attach it here to avoid confusing people, but happy to share it by PM if anyone wants to see it.

Has anyone had any experience with these crash bars from David Silver?
https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CB750K2-FOUR-1972/part_104922/

Peter did some guages for me and we (He) replaced the thenths numbers - it is a strip wound round.

I can't remember now whether he supplied them or I did - I think the latter -  but they weren't an exact replacement. He cautioned that they might unstick with time, but so far - 2 years I think - all is well.

As far as I know - fairly close - the innards are all the same (Peter could confirm this) unless you are changing MPH to KPH or vv. The thing to check is how the chrome bottom is fitted and how the clocks are mounted. After K2 I definitely know it changed.

Thanks Ted. No, that was what surprised me - maybe an hour or two, if I remember correctly. The second one was much quicker and so much better than my first attempt, that I had to go back and do the first one again.

They aren't the same as orignal and IMHO don't close tightly.

Just looking at them, the Kojaycat ones look closer to originals.