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Messages - blackeagles
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61
« on: December 12, 2019, 12:35:12 PM »
If its a USA import it will have the date on the VIN plate. If its a 1st registered UK bike... it won't have the date on the VIN plate. Not sure but I don't think any European models have date on VIN plate.
I was looking at the 'pva' number on the label. it may be a coincidence but mine is a 77 (reg78) and the number starts 77 - not thsat I know whet the 'pva' number is supposed to denote!!
63
« on: December 12, 2019, 12:05:04 PM »
mines has a date on the frame label
65
« on: December 10, 2019, 11:05:28 AM »
that's a real drag, you could always get a complete one with a good knuckle - tend to be in the usa although there are a few breakers like 400fourbits who may have one laying about.
66
« on: December 09, 2019, 03:26:12 PM »
well, so much for being smug. since its a bit better weather and given that what I think is poor starting is fairly normal I thought I would give it a last adjustment of the pilots and fast idle screw while its cold and start it...…..no such luck!! with petrol pouring out no 1 overflow  cant get it to work so will have to take the bowl off - without taking the carbs off yet again oh 
67
« on: December 09, 2019, 03:18:51 PM »
trying to keep it original then maybe getting it brazed/welded (depends what has broken) otherwise there is a used one on e-bay in Italy at 130 euro but open to offers and an e-bay discount code.
68
« on: December 07, 2019, 05:43:47 PM »
Have you set the "fast idle" adjusting screw? As there is a routine for that which should hold the revs for you without having to play with the throttle.
The absolute peak rpm when on full choke is 3,500 rpm too, which with UK temperature is probably needed, not necessarily to run all the time at that, but more to set the relationship of ambient temp/ mixture/ engine warmth so that it works correctly.
I think so (something of a fiddle when its on the bike) i.e. pull the choke all the way out and back the grub screw off until it just touches the cam then push the choke home and turn the screw back in 1 1/2 to 2 turns. I did notice that the cam was well worn to the point that the screw falls out just as it touches the cam so I had to drill a very small hole in the screw end and fit an even smaller screw into it so it would reach the cam. something of a bodge but it works.
69
« on: December 07, 2019, 05:36:33 PM »
If its good when hot you have hit the sweet spot. Those carbs are a bit of a compromise in setup so most of us accept the cold running issues as part of getting the hot running spot on. Does that make sense. Rubbish lean burn carbs are the issue.
I have to say I was 'smugly' happy that it likes running when hot - but this cold aggravation is a bit of a let down add: well, having had a look at it i have to say i don't have any screwdrivers that will get into the limited space so I will have to cut something down and try again.
70
« on: December 07, 2019, 11:08:22 AM »
ok, thanks for the info.
i get most of it but i'm still a bit unsure why when its cold and on full choke I can start it and I rev it up and it initially settles to about 3k but (with the choke still on) I let go of the throttle and the revs drop back and the bike stalls. as I said its ok when it starts to warm up and good when hot - I guess its one of those things you get used to.
thanks again
71
« on: December 04, 2019, 11:47:07 AM »
ok, almost finished this rather easy 'restore' but not been at it for some time - too cold and too old.... well mainly the latter.
still seem to have a problem, when its hot the bike ticks over at 1200 and revs up without hesitation to settle back to 1200 again BUT getting it to start is something of an art form. I checked the jets and sprayed them with cleaner and even the pilots were clear! (in fact they all look new), they are the correct size, pilot screw is now 2 3/4 out and all the pump jets fire a jet of petrol into the venture. press the button and it fires up after a few tries (twisting the throttle to get the pumps to jet petrol into the venture helps) with the choke on and revs at about 4k (I know I have set the grub screw a bit too high at the moment) and I can rev it as much as I like but as soon as I let go of the throttle the revs start to die and the bike stalls.
any suggestions?
72
« on: November 01, 2019, 04:33:24 PM »
hi guys, thanks for the info.
the 2 3/4 turns out is the highest tick over speed I get (I have tried 3 out but if reduces the revs so too far!), and the revs slightly drop when I back it off to 2 1/2 out so maybe 2 1/2 is ok for this bike - I don't know these carbs (i'm vintage british and harly) but until I get it out on the road (a while yet) I will not know if this setting is ok or not.
thanks again
73
« on: October 28, 2019, 12:58:01 PM »
ok, thanks. not easy to do no2 is it?, keep burning my hand (boho) anyway having set and reset the pilots, it seems to like 2 3/4 turns out which seems rather a lot not it ticks over evenly with hardly any 'hunting/faltering'. there is very little difference between 2 and 2 1/2 other than the revs dropping a hundred or so. is 2 1/2 or 2 3/4 too much?
74
« on: October 24, 2019, 11:21:58 AM »
Most carbs usually have the pilot air screw setting as 'x' turns out +- 'n' but the 'H' Manual and a couple of bits I have seen on the net say the pilot air screw should be 1 3/4 turns out without any +- so is this correct? I also hate to ask this but is it in for less air and out for more 
75
« on: September 30, 2019, 11:37:11 AM »
thanks for the suggestions.
I do not know the condition of the engine - other than it seems to 'go' alright - so i'm not happy at pushing it into the red and, having spent my life with british and hd 'thumpers', I also can't get my head around such revs. i'll just swan about on it until I get the 750 going and then think about its future.
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