Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => Project Board => Topic started by: masonmart on February 29, 2016, 08:59:33 PM
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Recently set off on a very interesting journey to restore a very sorry looking Dresda 550. which is a 550 engine in a lightweight Dresda racing frame. Interesting history in that it was exported to Spain around 1978 but was impounded by customs and left outside or in various sheds since then. Obviously very low mileage but interestingly it has a 600 cc kit fitted. I'm very lucky in that DD is letting me use an area of his workshop to do it and if I can do it well then it should be a really nice bike as it will be tiny and much lighter than the stock 550 and it'll be true cafe racer style.
This is a very good site btw and I'm sure that I'll benefit from membership, if I can be of help in return then I'd be very glad. I have some before pictures but at the moment the bike is in its component parts waiting painting, zinc coating and chroming. I'm waiting on the bottom crank case half to be blasted and painted so that I can start assembling the bottom end but it was damaged in a few areas and needed welding and grinding to shape.
I'm just retired and luckily so as I'm having to put in a lot of hours which would have made the job very expensive. My character makes me not good at work like this because I'm driven to get on with it but good restorations need a lot of patience. I did a trade apprenticeship at ICI in the 60s but done nothing hands on since mainly paying for others to do work for me so I'm having to learn as I go especially in separating things that don't want to be because of corrosion.
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The great Mr Degens........hope he is well.........he is certainly 'an indomitable' bloke. I discovered that I lived quite near him a few years ago in the Surrey Hills - me in Brockham and him in Rusper so I went to visit him.......his Wife opened the gate, took me round to his workshop and left us to it like it was an everyday occurrence.
He very kindly showed me some of his lovely bikes and gave me some tips about Triumphs.
A very nice bloke who made a difference to the motorcycling world. Not many individuals can beat factory racing machines......but he did on a number of occasions.
Good luck with the rebuild.
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Be interesting to see as you get along with it.
Nice connection working next to DD as well as it kind of completes the circle for the bike.
Used to go to his shop when he was in Putney bridge Road years ago as any of us near there wanting taper roller head sets for our jap bikes would shoot over to him.
He was on an American TV program I watched recently also, very clever engineer.
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I live just down the road from his place in Rusper and have one of his Tritons too.
He's a fiery character for sure but a really nice bloke under that exterior and a wonderful hands on engineer. His ilk are fast disappearing unfortunately and biking will be much diminished for it
I'll put up some photos when I start doing the assembly.
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Have the bike disassembled, cleaned and everything that can be is either in for coating or already done. The wheels are in for rebuilding, the original Borrani rims were perfect under the cement and dust and I'm going for black hubs with SS spokes and polished rims for good contrast.
Very lucky that I decided to strip down the engine because it had obviously at one time been crashed on the points side with damage to the engine bolt lugs but, despite heavy welding, still with hairline cracks through some of the cylinder stud holes. One cylinder hadn't been running neither.
I've found some crank cases and the intent now is to get the engine, barrels and head all coated with Cerakote which is a very high quality ceramic coating, the finished product is very good: already had the down pipes done in satin black to contrast with the silver engine. I've had the speedo, tacho and carbs all restored, all of the valve seats recut and am only short of a tank now, some clip ons with risers and a few little bits like a cylinder stud. As soon as I get the crank cases back I can start reassembling the engine and that's the critical path now. Will post some pictures when it starts to look like a bike or if anything of interest crops up.
I've been really glad of workshop space and the use of machinery and tools especially impact drivers which were needed on just about everything. Especially glad of the advice from DD and Russell, I've tried not to bother them as they are always busy and they take the Mickey out of me mercilessly :)
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Here's a couple of my favourite Dresda pictures:
[attachimg=2]
North Weald classic sprint meeting 2006 (Westfield Andy was there too with his Seeley)
[attachimg=1]
Degens on the MCN bike (also summer 2006)
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Agreed,they are very nice bikes in these photographs. 8)
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Last picture's a bit like how my 550 looked back in the day but while Dave is a great hands on engineer his bikes tended to be well back on style compared to Rickmans and Sealeys for example. I think I'll do the tank and seat differently and not have a half fairing.
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As I remember Dave from back in the 70's he didn't care about style just function. Seem to remember that the was a shop specialising in Sunbeams at the other end of the block
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All of the bits that need to be restored have now been done and I start assembly tomorrow. Wrt painting of the engine cases, covers, head, barrels, etc., I finally went for different temperature grades of Cerakote which is a baked on ceramic and even better than the two pack epoxy painting that I had done on other restorations.
Just a few examples below
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x425/masonmart/Afters/P1030796.jpg) (http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/masonmart/media/Afters/P1030796.jpg.html)
Cylinder head from below, valves cut at triple angle.
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x425/masonmart/Afters/P1030795.jpg) (http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/masonmart/media/Afters/P1030795.jpg.html)
And from above
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x425/masonmart/Afters/P1030797.jpg) (http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/masonmart/media/Afters/P1030797.jpg.html)
Barrels now finally fitting the casings
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x425/masonmart/Afters/P1030798.jpg) (http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/masonmart/media/Afters/P1030798.jpg.html)
Crankcases from the breakers looking a lot better than the original bike's cracked ones.
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Looking very nice indeed. Who did the Cerakote for you? Flying Tiger?
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Oh and a silly question probably - did you intentionally leave the exhaust copper crush gaskets in there?
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Hi James, Hi-Spec Coatings in Coolham on the A272 toward Billinghurst.
Ha!! yes, forgot all about the copper gasket but they needed soda blasting.
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Them parts are looking nice
pete
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A question.
You have the crankshaft, primary drive shaft and kick start mechanism fitted in the lower case and the main and counter shaft plus shift drum and forks in the upper case. Everything seems fine and it seems to change gear OK. I have all of the fasteners ready to bolt up the case halves: there's no gasket between the cases so I'll need to paint the surfaces with, say, Hondabond and bolt them up.
The question is, would a careful person have a "cold" match up to make sure that everything functions correctly with cases assembled and partially tightened. It's a bit of a pain but could show up an assembly mistake before putting all of the sealant on.
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Take the primary shaft out and build everything in the top half fitting the primary shaft through AFTER case assembly
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Take the primary shaft out and build everything in the top half fitting the primary shaft through AFTER case assembly
Ow!! The primary shaft is in and it was a very hard job getting it in through the starter clutch, etc., I don't fancy taking it out again but I'll have a look. I followed the manual
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If it was difficult to fit you were doing it wrong they should slide in easy except for a light tap at the very end, this one of few cases where the manual is not exactly right on the easiest way
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It's all together and seems OK. Is there a simple way of checking that the gears work?
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Just turn the selector drum BUT you will probably need to turn both shafts at the same time whilst rotating the drum(3 hands required)
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Got this far with the engine today after coating, everything working OK.
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x425/masonmart/Afters/P1030803.jpg) (http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/masonmart/media/Afters/P1030803.jpg.html)
Found that I couldn't bottom the bolts for the starter motor and then that it was full of what looked like some kind of blasting solids. Disaster because it was supposed to be soda blasted or if not then all oilways blocked off. Stupidity on my part because it'll have to come apart again to make sure that it's really clean. A real lesson learned there.
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Well, after two back to square ones because of poor preparation 9by me) the engine is done. Hope to wrap the frame around it next week and assemble all of the cycle parts which are now coated
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x425/masonmart/Afters/P1030812.jpg) (http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/masonmart/media/Afters/P1030812.jpg.html)
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Looking smart too, (back to square ones just gods way of telling you to read the manual).
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Looking smart too, (back to square ones just gods way of telling you to read the manual).
Too true Mark.
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Today I unpacked the frame, swinging arm, forks and engine plates and bolts ready for assembly to make sure that I have all of the bits.
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x425/masonmart/Afters/P1030816.jpg) (http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/masonmart/media/Afters/P1030816.jpg.html)
I stripped the forks down to check the internals and polish the bottom halves and guess what? Yes, the stanchions are bent and pitted in the area that will pass through the seals. Never mind, new OEM stanchions are only £200 each plus P&P. Any ideas on where I may be able to get hold of a pair of straight ones or does anybody have a pair to sell.
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x425/masonmart/Afters/P1030815.jpg) (http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/masonmart/media/Afters/P1030815.jpg.html)
These are the hubs, black to look good with polished alloy rims. Sat for 2 hours polishing the rims, hard work.
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x425/masonmart/Afters/P1030813.jpg) (http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/masonmart/media/Afters/P1030813.jpg.html)
Dresda lightweight frame, tiny thing.
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x425/masonmart/Afters/P1030814.jpg) (http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/masonmart/media/Afters/P1030814.jpg.html)
Dresda swinging arm with the engine plates which I managed to get reasonably well polished. I'm 2 engine bolts short but will make them next week.
Very disappointing day because of the forks but a case of I get knocked down but I get up again. Sounds like a good title for a song if somebody hadn't already done it.
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Any ideas on where I may be able to get hold of a pair of straight ones or does anybody have a pair to sell.
For less than the price of replacement stanchions, Philpotts in Luton can straighten and re-chrome including collection and delivery. I've had 2 sets of stanchions re/chromed and they're very good. Check them out www.pittedforks.co.uk
Peter
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I agree with Philpotts as there are at least 3 different types of leg and you have to get the right ones.
Also read the manual and check the parts book BUT do not take them as gospel as misprints happen(especially Haynes) and according to Honda there are 4 gear change forks!!! DUH. I am getting older and slower, just like my 'puter soanswers take longer but they will get there.
On your nicely painted frame and brackets, make sure that the coating is removed to bare metal where the earth cable goes(and the engine side) plus where the coils mount there should be a small ground lead where the coating also needs to be removed or you will melt the loom
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can you guys slow down with your restorations please!! i'm still at the collecting bits and listing stage. nice work though.
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I know exactly what you mean pete
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Another benefit of having the forks restored is that you get a far thicker layer of chrome which resist corrosion and wear better than OEM.
PS do you know how much lighter the Dresda frame is?.
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Another benefit of having the forks restored is that you get a far thicker layer of chrome which resist corrosion and wear better than OEM.
PS do you know how much lighter the Dresda frame is?.
I'll check Mark. DD has at least one CR engine in bits and he used to build them with Dresda frames
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Any ideas on where I may be able to get hold of a pair of straight ones or does anybody have a pair to sell.
For less than the price of replacement stanchions, Philpotts in Luton can straighten and re-chrome including collection and delivery. I've had 2 sets of stanchions re/chromed and they're very good. Check them out www.pittedforks.co.uk
Peter
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Peter, many thanks for the link and it looks good. CMSNL have stanchions for around £85 delivered and given all uncertainties I've gone this route.
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I believe that to get the wheel bearings out I had to drift against the inner race which probably means that these 40 year old bearings are not in good shape. The OEM units from CMSNL are around £20 per bearing delivered but NTN/SNR standard bearings are around £20 for a full set plus seals. Is there any reason not to use non-OEM bearings.
I plan to build the wheels up using the existing beautiful Borani alloy rims (that have come up amazingly well) using butted stainless spokes. I know that Hagon does them, are there any other good suppliers known to posters here?
Many thanks MM
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No reason at all to not use other bearings, Honda bought them in from a supplier in the first place!! Try Central Wheels for spokes maybe
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I've finished the engine and everything is ready for engine in tomorrow. The only way to do it is to lay the engine on its side and thread the frame downwards over it installing the engine plates and bolts as you go. I'll pop a couple of photos up when it's in.
I'm generally in good shape with bits that I need for completion but may need to get some help in rewiring the loom, it was in terrible state and I did some minor damage getting it all freed and off the bike which was badly corroded..
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standard looms are available pattern from silvers
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Big day today as we got the engine into the frame. Waiting for my new fork stanchions and to get the wheels built so that it becomes mobile but I can make really good progress now.
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x425/masonmart/P1030823.jpg) (http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/masonmart/media/P1030823.jpg.html)
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x425/masonmart/P1030825.jpg) (http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/masonmart/media/P1030825.jpg.html)
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x425/masonmart/P1030824.jpg) (http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/masonmart/media/P1030824.jpg.html)
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Bought spokes and built the wheels at the weekend, the front was very difficult as 40 spokes and Hagons design of 3 crossings.
Forks are rebuilt and on the bike.
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x425/masonmart/P1030828.jpg) (http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/masonmart/media/P1030828.jpg.html)
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Wheels looking good, I googled Dresda 550 but there's a whole array of styles that people have created, do you have in mind how yours will look when finished?
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Wheels looking good, I googled Dresda 550 but there's a whole array of styles that people have created, do you have in mind how yours will look when finished?
Mark
I don't like the original look because the style then was big fibreglass tank and massive fibreglass seat unit. I'm going for a single racing seat with the classical hump, the original 4:1 pipes (coated in black) and the original chromed Motad single silencer which I've managed to clean up quite well. I'll use straight flat bars and a manx type small screen. The frame may be fitted out for the standard Dresda tank but I'll either paint it to hide the size (mainly black) or see if I can find a 3 gallon Manx type tank. Forks, discs, brakes, clocks, etc., will be original CB500. The wiring I'm not sure about as the original 500 loom is in a mess but I can ask Dresda to rewire it as they do their Tritons. I'm doing it to a budget though and may end up with less than perfection and using original stuff that I've reclaimed. I intend to make it look classic with much better lines than the original Dresda but the value of the bike doesn't justify spending the type of money needed to get it perfect.
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That's the great thing about building your own bike, you can make it exactly as you want, it really annoys me when purists pick fault for a lack of originality (thankfully there's none of that on this forum), I look forward to seeing it!
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That's the great thing about building your own bike, you can make it exactly as you want, it really annoys me when purists pick fault for a lack of originality (thankfully there's none of that on this forum), I look forward to seeing it!
Thanks Mark. Whatever happens the bike will be special to me at least. I've met a lad who rides a similar bike and loves it. The CB500 is a beautiful motor and in a bike with total weight of <150kg and with the 605cc kit should be brilliant.
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Did you get around to finishing this project?
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Did you get around to finishing this project?
It would be great to see the end result.
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I did finish the bike in the end
[attachimg=1]
I stopped when I'd got past £20k spend. The bike was running and went amazingly well but I didn't like it. The flat bars didn't work and the front mudguard from a CB500 wasn't right. I had a new Kawasaki Avenger A7 project to do and put the Dresda into the garage for the future. I'll probably sell it for whatever it'll fetch. Would make a good buy for somebody, nearly everything is new.