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Topics - sprinta
1
« on: August 21, 2023, 12:11:02 PM »
Having a problem which I suspect is due to the petrol tank not venting properly?
Went for a ride yesterday and parked the bike for a while, fairly sunny and warm day. However, when I restarted the bike it kept stalling, managed to get going having to rev it higher to stop it stalling but then started jerking and missing and would not pick up, went to reserve no changed then it just expired and came to a halt, very much like running out of petrol?
Lifted the petrol cap, helmet and ear plugs in so could not hear anything and then the bike started and ran home OK.
This morning I opened the cap and there was a distinct sudden rush of air into the tank, so suspect that the cap is not allowing air in and/or not venting properly?
It is an after market Yamiya cap so took it apart to find all vent holes clear. However, is it possible that it was not correctly assembled?
With reference to the attached does anybody have a Yamiya cap that they could check to see what the correct assembly is for the internal rubber gasket.
The 1st one is how it was when I took it apart or should it be as the second photo?
The small o-ring just appeared when I took it apart so I have assumed that is it's correct placement, which may not be correct?
2
« on: July 20, 2023, 12:56:10 PM »
Apart from my 72 UK CB750K2 I also have a 76 UK Z900A4 on which I am having a carb issue that some here may be able to offer some advice on?
No 3 pot is running very rich to the extent that the carbon fouling caused the pot to miss and back fire, which eluded me to the problem.
The other plugs were slightly rich but otherwise OK. Did a 'wet' float level check which should be around 3mm below the bottom flange of the carb body face. They were all high more or less at the body flange.
Carbs removed. Jets ultrasonically cleaned and carb bodies passageways cleaned with carb cleaner and compressed air. All passages as far as I am aware clear. New seats and valves fitted, Kester original Mikuni if available around £80 a set. are Did a bench wet float level setting followed by static balance, all OK.
Re-fit the carbs did vacuum balance and colourtune, all set up OK so go for a ride.
Rides well but on return No 3 is still black and sooty and the No 3 carb wet float level has gone high again!
Remove float and bend the tang up a bit more, still remains high. Tape float up with bowl off with petrol tap on for around 4 hrs, no leak. Even with the tang bent up such that the float only has to move 1mm to close the valve the wet level remains high.
Take the bike for another ride and do a plug chop at 60 mph, No 3 remains black and sooty, so problems remains at higher rev range.
Plug caps on No' 1,2 & 4 around 4K8 ohms No 3 5K4 ohms, slightly high but not enough I would have thought to be causing the problem?
Have swapped plug leads of No' 2 & 3 (they use same coil so fire at the same time) but yet to go for a ride to see if it is a lead/cap problem?
But I am now running out of ideas. The floats float in petrol and water, but in desperation I have ordered set of replacements, at high cost, but doubt they will make much/any difference?
But the main thing that is totally mystifying me is that what ever I do to the No 3 carb/float the petrol level remains high. It does not overflow but the level is in line with the flange face of the body.
As to whether the high float level is the sole cause of the richness or if it is as a result or a commination of carb and electrical is uncertain at this stage?
If anybody can offer some advice or suggestions as to why what ever I do the float level remains high on the No 3 carb it would be very much appreciated as the carbs in operation are very much the same as the ones used on the Honda's, the main difference being that the Z900A4 has enrichment choke plungers against the air reduction slides of the Honda. The plungers have had the seats replaced with Viton as they were a first possibility of allowing extra fuel in causing the richness, but they have made no difference.
3
« on: May 11, 2022, 10:08:47 AM »
I have been trying to sell an old British bike for a while now with limited success in the current economic climate. However, in response I have received an enquiry asking if I would be happy to ship it to USA. Immediate response is that it is a scam, but equally I have never sold aboard and would not really want the hassle.
In any event I just replied that it was for UK sale only. The guy has responded stating that he would be happy to arrange all the shipping? It could still be a scam, but equally it could be a genuine sale enquiry and once the money is cleared and in the bank where it goes I am not too bothered about particularly if as he has indicated he is happy to sort out all the shipping?
Has anybody here actually shipped a vehicle to the States and can advise what is involved so that I can better understand of the process and equally see it the guy is just leading me on and it is nothing more than a scam?
Thanks
Andy
4
« on: January 09, 2022, 04:36:01 PM »
5
« on: January 04, 2022, 01:03:39 PM »
I have a pre CB750K2 series Engine Oil label for sale, Pt No: 87125-300-000.
This is for the K, K0 & K1 series which I bought in error for my K2.
Looking for £4.50 posted.
Thanks
Andy
6
« on: December 30, 2021, 10:32:10 AM »
I have just bought a new set of Yamiya no number 300's and would like to know if any of you have found a treatment or process to protect/preserve, as best one can, the inside of the pipes before use to hopefully prolong their use by stopping/slowing down internal rust/corrosion?
Even from new, as a result of all the various chemicals used during the chroming process, there will be some that will not have been flushed out due to the internal structures trapping some and as a result there will enviably be some rust/corrosion already present.
I know that some recommend an annual filling and draining of old/new engine oil, but this is a far too messy and time consuming procedure for me to do on an annual basics and whilst happy to do whilst before they have been used for the first time is this the best procedure for what would hopefully be a first time and once only process?
I know that short journeys and blocked drain holes are the killer for these pipes and I never do a ride of less than 30 miles and always ensure that the drain holes are clear, but even so the ends of the pipes rarely get more than warm.
Have any of you found alternative treatment/processes?
8
« on: December 11, 2021, 03:50:18 PM »
What is the difference between a HM300 no stamped number exhaust (not a lotus root) and a HM300 with stamped number, if any?
9
« on: November 26, 2021, 05:23:52 PM »
I'm looking at purchasing a Yamiya tank and side panel kit, together with the various bits to complete them, which I would appreciate some advice on from anybody who has previously bought a kit?
1. I note that they only seem to accept payment in Yen, $'s and Euro's and not in £'s, is that the case?
2. I assume that you will have to pay UK 20% VAT and a customs duty, if so do Yamiya collect that or do I you have to pay for that in the UK before it is delivered and if so what sort of custom duty do you have to pay over and above the VAT?
3. They give a packed weight of around 20Kg with a delivery cost on near the £200 mark, Och!!!!!!!!!! Even with the packaging added 20Kg seems a very high delivery weight. Is that what others have had to pay?
Thanks
Andy
10
« on: December 13, 2020, 09:36:22 AM »
11
« on: July 19, 2020, 10:51:52 AM »
It there a there a measurement available for setting the float levels when using an external tube connected to the float bowl drain screw, i.e. a certain distance from the face of the carb?
Don't want to have to remove the carbs again, but I'm getting different levels in each bowl when removed.
Thanks
12
« on: February 10, 2020, 05:19:58 PM »
I am considering doing a twin disc conversion on my 73 CB750 K2 and currently looking at all the parts I would require to do the modification.
On looking at the caliper whilst it it is straightforward to fit to the RH side they are handed in the sense that the nipple will now be closer to the fork tube and the hydraulic pipe now furthest away as the seats for the nipple and hydraulic pipe are different with the nipple using an inverse cone shape and the pipe a raised cone seat.
On looking at the relevant parts book page, see attached, there is an unnumbered part that looks to be some sort of olive insert above the pipe connection position.
Can anybody advise if this a push in seat that can be removed or if there is a relatively simple process so the nipple and hydraulic can be fitted as a mirror image of the LH side with the hydraulic pipe close to the fork leg?
13
« on: April 30, 2019, 10:00:30 AM »
Is there a source of the early 'thin' type kickstart rubber that was used on the K2's apart from possibly Yamiya?
Thanks
14
« on: March 03, 2019, 10:32:02 AM »
15
« on: September 25, 2018, 02:56:03 PM »
I want to fit a 530 O or X ring chain to my UK 72 750K2.
When it was re-built it was fitted with new sprockets and a Std HD chain. The bike has now done 4K miles so the sprockets are OK.
However, despite correct alignment, adjustment and regular lubrication the chain has had it with tight spots and needing adjusting more or less after every ride. The bike is generally run around 55 mph so it is not abused, but 4k, to me, is poor for a chain.
I have several bikes but still do around 3K on the K2 in a year, so I want to fit a 530 O or X ring chain.
With my other Jap bike I have done this with it is usually just a question of spacing the gearbox sprocket a bit so that it will clear the casings due to the wider pitch but on the Honda that is not possible.
So my question is can anybody advise a 530 O or X ring chain that can/will fit directly with the exiting sprockets but does not foul or damage the engine casings? I also plan to use a split link.
Thanks
Andy
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