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Topics - philward
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46
« on: June 23, 2021, 09:19:46 PM »
Just had a 2nd condenser fail on the 750k2 since rebuid in 2015 and am considering the Hondaman ignition system. I have a Boyer on the CR750 Rep but although works well, wasn't that pleased with amateurish connections, mounting of box of tricks and lack of threads on spindle when mounting rotor.
As the main reason why I am looking to go electronic is the condenser failure - maybe the aftermarket condensers are less reliable (and OEM are very expensive!), does the Hondaman system still have a use for the condenser? (as my understanding is that the purpose of the condenser is to reduce the current across the points - which the Hondaman system is supposed to do).
Views from electrickery experts please
47
« on: May 14, 2021, 10:27:50 PM »
Just done first ride on the 500k2. Only 2 issues - One of the new repo replica silencer end flanges (were the end plate meets the outer silencer body) blowing - appears to have a mastic like sealant thats blown out
2nd issue is intermitently running on only No 3 and 4. Long story short, it turned out that tap fuel pipe exit for 1 & 2 not giving full fuel flow caused by breather hole in the NEW repo petrol cap not fully drilled through (drilled hole fully so breather clear/breaths). Worth a check for anybody fitting one
2 faults on 2 NEW repo parts!
Oh, and noticed start of very light rust on NEW DID rims! (7 months since purchase and my garage is 100 dry and condensation free) - cleaned off with white spirits on a rag but very disappointing
48
« on: May 09, 2021, 10:26:34 AM »
This just came up on my Google news feed - hope the link works http://www.sohc4.com/cb750/history/One for the experts! Interesting read for me Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
49
« on: May 05, 2021, 06:01:28 PM »
Can anyone tell me what tools are required to adjust the chain on a VFR800 please? I've just been stopped by a guy who knows I have bikes asking if I could adjust his chain as he's been quoted 1 hours labour to have it adjusted! He said he'd pop round but just trying to prepare (as never been near a single sided set up)
Thanks
Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
50
« on: April 30, 2021, 02:51:13 PM »
I have just received my V5C after going through the normal registering a US import process - took about 3 weeks. And as an aside, no MOT required, I just filled in an MOT exempton form V112 (I know that it has been a contentious issue for registering bikes over 40 years in previous posts) - I have previously gone through all the hassle of trying to get my bike to the MOT station without the bike being registered (insurance on VIN number, etc).
However, they have put the registered date as the 01/72 instead of 12/72 as per US title and dating cert from VJMC, which means it is on a 'K' reg not an 'L' reg. As its an early 500K2, it means the bike has a reg that pre dates the model.
What should I do? Leave it and possibly affect the provinence/value (will it affect this aspect) or try to un-pick the process?
Has anyone got a tel number for the appropriate DVLA dept (can only get a generic DVLA number off the web)
Thanks
Phil
51
« on: April 17, 2021, 09:13:55 PM »
Having just completed the total rebuild of my 500k2 (just waiting for DVLA registration) and after I finish a rebuild, I put together a rebuild record of receipts and photo album of the rebuild.
Thought I'd share the results for your interest.
Added up all the receipts and here are the results:-
Engine rebuild parts - £801.73
Total parts (inc engine) and tank/side panel paint labour/clock refurb (Peter Horton) - £5822.71
Bike cost - £1,320
Hence total £7,142.71!
And thats me doing everything myself except the tank/side panel paint and clock refurb. So imagine what the cost would be if I farmed out engine rebuild, ultra sonic cleaning, zinc plating, frame/etc paint, polishing, etc, etc
Its a good job I enjoy resto's as I would struggle to get my money back (its a keeper anyway).
Having a break from back to original resto's - and the above is the main reason as I retire next month.
52
« on: April 13, 2021, 11:07:53 PM »
53
« on: April 02, 2021, 05:32:11 PM »
All done, just waiting for registration and forks to sort as they are a bit 'clunky' for some reason. Having a rest from resto's for a while - they are wearing me out (and my bank account!)   Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
54
« on: March 29, 2021, 11:28:28 PM »
I enquired about this subject about 5 years ago resulting in someone telling me that a forum member made them and I subsequently bought one from him. I need another one now but can't remember who it was!
Can anyone point me in the right direction please
Phil
55
« on: March 16, 2021, 10:14:25 PM »
56
« on: March 16, 2021, 01:24:45 PM »
Another issue for your assistance! Having sorted oil pressure priming issue, plugs in and attempt to start (or not) - this is the issue:-
- Post getting oil pessure and having previously timed, etc, without plugs in, motor spins freely and spark at plugs
- Plugs in and motor does not turn but solenoid makes noise - thinks solenoid duff (new Motobatt fitted but not used since bought about 6 weeks ago) - changed solenoid for the one from my 750k2 - same (put back on 750 and tried starter as double check and works fine).
- Checked battery voltage and about 11.8 volts - charged overnight and 13.2 volts
- Fitted and pressed button and solenoid engaged and all lights went out - checked fuse and NOT blown - - - checked voltage on battery and ZERO - on to charger and no response at all (shows not connected on Optimiser) - battery shorted and blown?.
- Put jump leads from old car battery on bike battery leads and when pressing starter button, major sparks from live jump lead joint to bike leads
- took solinoid off and run + and - to input leads and switches with continuity
My initial thought was when battery at full charge, it was strong enough to engage solenoid and put a ground direct to battery due to permanent ground on starter cable (to solenoid) - but if this was the case, why didn't this issue happen when spinning motor without plugs in (solenoid engaged with lower battery voltage due to lower starter motor current draw) as motor ground lead still providing same poarity source.
I have continuity from ground on engine to starter lead - is this normal? (if not, why did motor work when solenoid engaged with motor spun with plugs out?)
- Trying to recover Motobatt via tandem battery method
Also got carbs dumping fuel but got my thoughts on that.
I'm taking a step back today as naffed off that it didn't start first time! (my previous projects started up straight away!) and before I strip the starter motor out and check (although it worked with plugs out!) would appreciate your views
Thanks in anticipation
Phil
57
« on: March 14, 2021, 07:45:49 PM »
Just doing pre start up checks - electrical system and got round to the oil presure, of which there is none!
This is what I've checked so far:-
- Filled with approx 3 litres of oil (10mm past top mark)
- Checked continuity on new (genuine Honda) oil pressure switch (showing ground at contact) - does not change when kicking (and a quick spin on motor - I did cover all surfaces with Graphagen!)
- Re-stripped and checked pump tolerences - new pump kit fitted from Julie on build. (seal dowels in place with seals)
- Pump rotor punch marks aligned
- When oil pump out, oil seeps from crankcase at pump entry point (bearing) - not at either crankcase gallery point (that go to pump)
- No oil at filter housing
- With pump installed but cover off, pump is turning
- On kicking over with oil pressure switch removed and my finger over hole, there is no pressure I can feel
I originally filled the pump on original assemble with vaseline to prime pump (as I have done with my 750 builds) but removed it when told it shouldn't be needed on wet sump SOHC.
Any suggestion much appreciated (does it just need priming?)
Phil
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58
« on: March 11, 2021, 04:51:23 PM »
Can anyone show me where to locate the warning stickers on the 500k2 that I have received from Piki?
Thanks
59
« on: March 10, 2021, 09:02:50 PM »
Just fitted the replica 323 exhausts I got from CMSL last year (bike nearly done now!) and fit was generally good except for centre stand stop bracket on the lower exhaust is about 20mm too rearward - stand just about sits on the edge of the rubber stop (if you let the stand flick up, it pushes past rubber and clanks into the exhaust). I think I will have to make a plate to put the rubber on and screw to the exhaust bracket.
Anyone else experienced this issue?
60
« on: February 27, 2021, 09:53:28 PM »
Just looking through CMSL 500 parts schematics in prep for fitting head (checking to make sure I fit all the right o'rings/etc) and noticed that there is an inner & outer spring seat (12 & 13 in the attached parts list). I only took out and refitted 1 seat per valve (all the same size) - is this right? If there is an inner & outer, does the one size I've missed normally/likely to stick to the head (oil holding it to head) https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/honda-cb500k2-general-export-e-4-camshaft-valve_big3IMG01171108_1c9a.gifHope I don't have to take the valves out of the head again to check as I struggled with my rather large valve spring compressor!
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