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Messages - sprinta
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61
« on: August 24, 2021, 07:53:42 PM »
I can also vouch for Newman Cams, not on my CB750K2 but on my 38 Rudge on which they did the cams and cam followers.
62
« on: July 31, 2021, 10:28:46 AM »
If you are a member of the Z1 OC they do a free shim exchange service just for the cost of the return postage.
63
« on: May 24, 2021, 05:00:06 PM »
The drama I had with the float levels finally sorted out, and the slides bench synched, here are the carbs, complete with pipework, about to go back on the bike.
I got to the stage where to do the remaining jobs (oil & filter, fit the pipes and sort the front brakes) I needed to finally get the bike off the grey plastic box that I have built it up on. I gave my mates a ring on saturday, and behold! we have a rolling chassis (well, with dragging font discs due to the wrong pads). The box is looking a bit worse for wear but surviving well considering I've built a Harley and a Z1A on it.
I didn't have an oil filter to fit when the fame and engine went on the box, so I've been unable to turn the engine over at all. I fitted the filter, and chucked 4L of 10/40 in, and started to turn the engine. I took the plug out of the oil gallery, and peered in. No sign of oil, worrying, my CB750 had dramas at this stage due to an airlocked pump - I had to prime it with Vaseline before it would work. This time I pressed the starter and suddenly the oil light went out. Looking down there was a welcome pool of oil on the floor, from the oil gallery, so I put the plug back in, and at last could turn the engine over in search of sparks. I also fitted a set of the little plug lead number tags, from PMC.
Happy with that I fitted the plugs, next I got the tank out of the attic again to sort out fuel. A big disappointment here, despite new O rings, my genuine fuel tap does not understand the concept of 'off', fuel still drips through. This seems quite a common problem, some research reveals OEM ones to be unobtainable, and most cheap replicas to be a waste of time. I did read however that PMC have upped their game, and found a better source. We'll see, I've had to order one, not much option other than a real cheapo one that I know will be rubbish.
So no attempt to start her up yet, but I've put the exhaust pipes on. A couple of issues with bolts too short, and nuts that don't match the thread on the long bolts, but here's a sneak preview, better pics when I can drag her out of the garage at last. Note that the plastic box is now in service as a box again, with all the remaining Z1 bits. When I bought the bike it filled five large boxes.
Can someone confirm that the four rubber / steel exhaust bushes all go in the two frame brackets, the parts diagram gives the impression that the bolt goes through the bush, then the pipe (see https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/kawasaki-z1a-1974-usa-canada-air-cleanermufflers_bigkar119561216_8faa.gif ) but I don't think that's correct.
I can confirm that the 4 rubber/steel bonded bushes go either side of the frame silencer mounting brk holes. The parts book diagram is wrong in the way in which it has shown it.
64
« on: April 30, 2021, 05:05:43 PM »
What is the clamp on the right hand bar for? Looks like some sort of aftermarket mount?
It's for a RAM arm to take a Sat Nav or phone cradle etc
65
« on: February 26, 2021, 05:11:22 PM »
Speaking of expense, here's £1,500 worth....
A very nice DPD man called Johnathan turned up this morning, with a big box:
It was full of shiny wonderfulness:
They must have to wear gloves when they make and pack the pipes, as even with clean hands, anywhere you touch them stands out as a greasy handprint. There was an interesting label about how new pipes have been treated with 2 stroke oil, which will burn off with use.
There was some fitting hardware too, but no copper rings or collets, but that's hardly a deal breaker. I'm glad I got an original pair of the big mounting bolts, as these pipes come with big allen bolts, which will just look wrong.
Quality wise they seem very good, a couple of tiny imperfections but not where you'd notice, and not worth sending them back - at best you'd get a refund while there is no supply, and you'd still need a set of pipes!
The pipes are all bagged and boxed again, and stashed in my attic, as while the bike is on a crate and hasn't got a back wheel fitted I can't mount the pipes. I am rather keen to see them in place though.
Are the headers double skinned like the original pipes were?
66
« on: February 11, 2021, 05:54:43 PM »
A 72 Z1 would have a black engine.
They went aluminium finish from Z1A onward.
67
« on: February 02, 2021, 11:48:01 AM »
Sprinta, did you fit a standard A10 first gear set or the A65 version? Both obviously lower than the RR box. Not been out on mine yet, so wondered what the RR first gear was like to ride on
It would have been 1st & 3rd gears (they have to be done as a pair but the 3rd gear ratio is the same) from an A10 box which has the separate gearbox. Don't know if the A65 & A10 boxes had the same ratios? As indicated when I first got the bike it had the std RRT2 ratios but had been fitted with a smaller rear wheel sprocket and a larger engine sprocket, so more or less impossible to ride. All three ratios were done at the same time so I can't advise what the std RRT2 1st gear on it's own was like, assuming the rear wheel and engine sprockets had the correct std ratios.
68
« on: January 30, 2021, 03:49:18 PM »
As Seamus has advised the RGS's had a specific GA10 frame with several detailed mods unique only to that frame, though with a bit of butchery you can mod one to look the same. It also used the GS swinging arm with a Q/D rear wheel. It did not use the Goldstar frame which had the kink in the lower RH frame tube to allow for the oil pump.
In total I believe there were some 1584 made of which some 272 were in scramble form. It is always claimed that there are now more than that number on the road due to many fakes and replicas.
Fortunately my March 63 bike has the correct numbers from an old green log book and a certificate of authenticity from the Goldstar & RGS owner club.
When I first got it it had the std RRT2 gear ratios but had also been fitted with a smaller rear wheel sprocket and a larger engine sprocket and was practically impossible to get going even on the flat, hence the quick conversion to touring trim with the correct sprockets and the fitting of the std 1st gear which then made it a very pleasant bike to ride.
69
« on: January 29, 2021, 03:19:07 PM »
My RGS, which I have had for a few years now. Waiting for the lock down and the bad weather to pass to get it on the road again.
Fitted std first gear on the RRT2 gearbox and converted to touring trim to make it easier to ride.
70
« on: January 09, 2021, 03:33:40 PM »
Chuffed! Exhausts ordered this morning. CMS.
Are these supplies as a complete set including the heat shields, end caps and the two connecting gaskets and clamps?
No Andy, just the basic pipes. What do you mean end caps?
The black circular caps that fit into the end of the pipes, can't really call them a baffle (as on they are the 300 series) as they are really nothing more than just trim.
71
« on: January 09, 2021, 01:25:27 PM »
Chuffed! Exhausts ordered this morning. CMS.
Are these supplies as a complete set including the heat shields, end caps and the two connecting gaskets and clamps?
72
« on: January 05, 2021, 12:54:12 PM »
Drilled out the engine mounting bolt which was mostly something like body filler until well down to just above the nut. Drilling the actual bolt wasn't too bad as I used a new 11 mm HSS Cobalt bit. 10 mm bit wasn't long enough to give clearance between the drill chuck and the crankcase. I drilled away a good part of the nut also. Anyhow it was all going fine until the bolt was relieved when the end of the nut was reached. I could see cracks open up slowly in front of my eyes, almost in slow motion. Bummer. The end of the bolt was pressed up hard against the crankcase which must have been causing stress. The pictures tell it better than words. First image shows most of the bolt removed before any cracks. 3rd image shows the indentation in the crankcase made by the end of the bolt. Anyhow this leaves me needing replacement crankcases or possibly a welding job? I haven't split them yet as I'm waiting on a clutch nut tool at the moment. Can't wait to see what's inside!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sHrq2Xko7tHU2FuE7
Are you sure they are cracks and not just casting flaws as they all seem to have slightly raised ridges? Pity you did not clean the cases in the area first as if they were they present before drilling you would have seen them?
73
« on: December 13, 2020, 09:36:22 AM »
74
« on: December 12, 2020, 12:17:02 PM »
In the worst case it can be spark eroded out. Not sure that would cost as much as replacing the head?
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