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Topics - Laverda Dave
76
« on: April 11, 2018, 10:30:33 AM »
Having received my lovely fresh CB250RSA paintwork back from Menno I am looking for something to protect the paintwork on the rear of the petrol tank to stop the front edge of the seat rubbing the paint away as these seem to do and also to protect the paint from the rubbing/scratching effects of jackets etc.
Can anyone recommend a suitable protector and preferably one that can be removed without taking the paintwork with it? A clear protector would be ideal. All the ones I have seen look as though they will damage the paint on removal.
This bike is going to be used as intended but I would like to keep it as clean and as mark free as possible.
If anyone also has a recommended source for a front crash bar that would also be welcome. I have seen universal crash bars advertised but just how 'universal' are they on such a small bike?
Dave
77
« on: January 27, 2018, 11:36:27 AM »
Does anyone have any tips of how to remove the magnetism from tools? I've just spent 30 minutes trying to locate a 2.5mm e-clip back into the kill switch. Every tool from my tool box appears to now be magnetic, great for picking the clip up but useless trying to place it!
It appears over the years small things like screwdrivers and pliers have somehow become magnetised. Does anyone know how to remove it?
78
« on: January 15, 2018, 10:31:52 PM »
Does anyone have any tips of suitable products to renovate black plastic parts such as rear inner mudguards, air box casings etc? I've used Halfords Back to Black in the past but the finish wears off very quickly. I don't want to paint the parts as it tends to flake and crack and looks awful.
79
« on: December 28, 2017, 12:53:16 PM »
I've made a real schoolboy error  with the CB250RS engine and now I need a pin spark eroded out. Does anyone know of anyone who can offer this service? All the company's that advertise are only interested in mass production work and not one-off's. Happy to send the part (it's the rocker cover) anywhere as it's only small.
80
« on: December 02, 2017, 03:16:20 PM »
I saw this at the Kempton Park Autojumble today. It was fully working and obviously from the 70's (maybe?). It was being sold by a couple of guys who'd travelled over from France for the day. Unfortunately the guy selling it had wandered off and his friend didn't know how much he wanted for it. Likely to have been expensive though as unmarked and complete with polystyrene packing but no box.
Makes a change from the usual Evil Knievel wind up toys.
81
« on: November 12, 2017, 12:03:09 PM »
Hi All,
I am currently in the process of cleaning and measuring all the gearbox parts of the CB250RSA engine. So far it's all pretty good with no undue wear although I'm installing a new cam chain, tensioner, refaced rockers and a NOS cam.
I am having trouble with the balance shaft chain in terms of measuring for wear. There's nothing in Mr Haynes manual regarding what is acceptable wear. I've clean the chain in degreaser and laid it out as in the photo. The chain length is 283mm (doubled up, it's endless) and it has a deflection of 25mm as shown. Is this acceptable, it doesn't have a hard life as it's inside the engine and covered in oil?
82
« on: October 23, 2017, 05:16:55 PM »
I had a day off today and decided the time had come to finally complete project 400/4! I still have to MOT it (just in time for winter  , but at least it's now finished and I can resume the CB250RSA restoration. I'm happy with the final result considering what I started with and I know there's a lot of pattern and stainless on the finished article but I would rather use stainless where I can and exhausts and rear mudguards are difficult (or impossible to get hold off). I bought the bike in several boxes of bits and two dismantled engines. Thank you to everyone on the forum for help, advice and in some cases, parts. If anyone has a genuine working horn for sale I'd be interested, I tried to save mine even using the 'boil in a bag' method but sadly it didn't work.
83
« on: August 05, 2017, 10:51:26 AM »
Hi All, I bought a second hand set of Davida Vacuum gauges a while ago to replace the steel rod Morgans that were never unfortunately as good as the mercury ones I had years ago and sadly got broken. The Davida's didn't come with any instructions but I didn't think that mattered as I've used the mercury filled Morgans well in the past. The problem I have with the Davida's is the reading scale, the increments are in lbs and not hg. The scale reads from 0-0.6lbs. According to the Haynes manual a reading of between 16-24hg is required during carb sync, there are no alternative lb readings provided. Checking a conversion chart on the web 16-24hg = 0.6-0.8lbs? This will be off the scale on the Davida's  Does anyone have a set of Davida's and can you give me an idea of where on the lb scale the carbs should be balanced at?
84
« on: July 27, 2017, 05:45:20 PM »
I know this may have been asked a million times before but after searching the carb threads I cannot find the answer I need. Here goes..... Does anyone know of position of the carb needles, Mr Haynes advises the third grove, I've done this but the bike is still a pig to start. I've got the carbs off for the third time now and going through them again. History is they were stripped, ultrasonically cleaned, vapour blasted, new jets, gaskets, needles etc (Keyser kit) and carefully re-assembled. I even made a custom 21mm float height gauge as advised by Chris  . To-date I have started the bike 3 times and every time its a nightmare, it just doesn't want to run, three of the headers have begun to yellow just through trying to set the carbs up, I haven't been on the road yet! The exhaust is a DS item and I'm aware of the potential for more fun and games regarding the back pressure  I'm going back to basics now, stripping the carbs again and using some carb cleaner to flush them out. Any help or advice appreciated at this stage, I just want to get it MOT'd before winter!
85
« on: July 24, 2017, 07:53:56 PM »
Hi All, I am trying to obtain a couple of oil seals for the 250 rebuild. I have the old seals (they are for the kickstart shaft and the clutch operating arm) they are both the same inside and outside diameter but their markings differ? One is marked as C14 SD 12 X 22 X 5, the other is marked as C25 SD 12 X 22 X 5. I have tried various oil seal suppliers (Simply Bearings is one) and they all have 12 x 22 x 5 oil seals of various prices ranging from a cheap eurobrand up to SKF at four times the price. Some are nitrile, some are vitron. None have the C25 SD or C14 SD on their description  Can anyone advise what the C25 and C14 and SD marking actually mean?
86
« on: March 01, 2017, 08:20:09 PM »
87
« on: February 04, 2017, 09:52:18 AM »
Hi All. Can anyone recommend a make and suppliers of a suitable engine assembly grease for things like crank and cam bearings? I used to have a tube of red grease given to me years ago by my local Honda dealer. It was in a plain white tube with no branding. It's all been used now so I'm looking for something else, any ideas?
Dave
88
« on: January 23, 2017, 11:18:55 PM »
Hi All. Thought I'd share the progress of the CB250RS rebuild with you all. The idea is to restore the bike without spending an absolute fortune as lets face it, they are not worth a lot which is a shame as they are lovely little bikes. I thought I'd restore this one as it has served me well for 12 years and its about time the more obscure SOHC CB's were restored otherwise there wont be any left in a few years. I began the strip down over Christmas with the intention to strip, label and photograph everything as it came apart. I have decided that unless the cylinder head is in good condition (or I can get decent replacements if it isn't) it won't be worth restoring. I've attached a couple of photos of progress so far, the bike is now all but striped into chassis component parts and the engine as a complete unit. Today I began stripping the engine, the moment of truth! Initially all looked good, the cam head journals are in near perfect condition.......unfortunately the cam lobes are marked and pitted with the corresponding pad of the rocker arms also being scored. Does anyone know if these can be reclaimed, years ago I had a can and followers metal sprayed and re-profiled but I don't know anywhere that does this service now, any recommendations would be helpful DK have one on e-bay but it appears to be worse then mine! Unless I can find somewhere to reclaim these the engine is toast
89
« on: January 15, 2017, 12:38:24 PM »
Hi All, I have a seat left over from project 400 if anyone would like it. It came in one of the many boxes with the 'Kit of parts' masquerading as a 400/4 I purchased on E-Bay. The base is steel and looks ok, the foam is ripped at the back (see photo) but is otherwise good. There is no cover. Being an ex-Coach Trimmer I was going to make a new cover but decided instead to buy a pattern seat from DS. This is now surplus and is taking up room in the garage. I think the seat is either a Two-Four or Gulliari(?). Its free to whoever wants it just pay the postage or collect in person. I'm located in Ruislip, Middlesex. If nobody claims it in the next month it will go to landfill!!!!  Dave
90
« on: January 13, 2017, 10:00:15 PM »
I’ve decided to put the nearly completed project 400 into hibernation for the next couple of months before balancing the carbs and taking it to its MOT, it’s not the weather to ride it at the moment and I have the Blackbird as my daily bike. I’ll post some completed photos of the 400 on the site when it’s all completely finished.
In the meantime……….I’ve started tearing down the CB250RSA to give it a cosmetic rebuild. I have no intention to strip the engine as it only has 14k on the clock and I changed the oil every 1000 miles although being the 5th owner I am tempted to at least take a look at the cam whilst the engine is out.
One problem I do have is obtaining a parts book similar to the one Honda produced for the 400, does anyone know if these are available anywhere? The only parts lists available appear to be on microfiche and I don’t have a microfiche reader! I’m making lots of notes during the strip down and taking plenty of photos but nothing compares to a parts book to detail where everything should go and bolt lengths, oil seals etc.
Does anyone have any experience of repainting these engines and what paint to use, the existing black semi-gloss finish has peeled in a few places and I don’t really want to strip the motor to repaint everything individually, it will lead to an expensive engine re-build! I will be replacing/replating all the engine bolts etc as part of the restoration.
Dave
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