Honda-SOHC

I've just started cleaning my spare set of carbs for my 400 - they are almost fully dismantled - they have had a clean in my Ultrasound Bath at 65 deg using Allendale carb cleaner after initial general degreasing with clean petrol.

I am pleased with the overall results especially on the insides - needing a little extra cleaning with a soft tooth brush in a few areas.

The main body is a slightly coarser casting with a bit of a blue tinge whereas the carb bowl & top cap are a much smoother finish.

Whats the easiest way to give a polished finish to the top & bottom - I don't want to use paint or spend days polishing them?

Carb top cap by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

I'm currently doing a rebuild of my spare carb set that I bought a while back from member here - Pops - they are in generally good condition..

The float pedastals on my current carbs are not in great condition so these will be my back up if needed.

I assume that the slow running jet that screws into the base old the carb inside the bowl should have a clean hole. Mine seem well blocked up & so far Ultrasonic cleaning has not unblocked them.

Is it okay to push a fine needle through or is there a better method that does not risk damaging the orifice ?

I recently had an issue with old petrol (SUL) causing a misfire in our Merc - it had half a tank of fuel that was left over from October 2020 when I last filled it up to the brim. Luckily I have managed to save the old petrol after adding some Octane reviver from Halfords- once I am close to reserve I will put new fuel in the tank - (the misfire then went within a mile or so of driving).

I did a bit of internet research where advice varies for petrol stored in a vehicle quoting an optimum shelf life of between 3 weeks -
6months.

This got me thinking about winter storage & what do folk here do if their bikes are only ridden in the summer months - my worry would be that if the tank is drained over winter then there is a risk of tank rusting?

Any comments / advice / observations welcome.

A really basic question - to check the oil level is this done with the dipstick resting on the casing thread or fully screwed back in?

This evening I fired up the 400 from cold I let it run at between 2- 2500rpm for some 20 seconds then checked the front pipes.

Number 1 & 3 cylinder are virtually cold - number 2 & 4 nice & hot.

So where do I start to diagnose what the problem(s) are please?

An Idiots guide if you will of the best logical steps I need to take in sequence please?

Came accross this today ----wow.

Cant seem to post the link from the start so you need to rewind -  some great bikes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NyI1j2b3TiM&t=468s


Lovely red Honda at 9.43/38.23 looks like an early twin.

Some nice bikes in the last half of the Bike Shed Motorcycle show London 2022- money bling.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOeXfx-l4Bw

Ideally my next project will possibly be another 400 that someone has given up on or has a blown engine. This would enable me to use my spare engine & various other 400 parts that I have built up over the last 18 months.

I liked the look of  Nashers 500 & various 550 bits he is trying to sell for a widow - it might be a project too far - not to mention the distance involved. Anyone here know of a 400 at sensible money with a duff engine?

I might be completely wrong here but my memory of resistor plugs is that they seemed to appear at around the same time as carbon plug leads in the battle to stop inteference on your radio & to a neighbours TV. Certainly back in the 1960's you sometimes heard and even saw a crackle on your TV screen when certain vehicles were close to your house.

If you fit a none resistor plug to an engine with no resistor in the plug cap how does this affect the way it starts or runs - is it related to having carbon leads or copper leads?

Does the resistor aspect affect the timing?

I have the Dynatec coils & electronic ignition kit on my 400/4  that comes with carbon type leads and the plug connectors are just a metal connector with a rubber shroud so no resistor.

Should I use resistor plugs (NGK DR 8ES-L) in this situation what effect will it have to have none resistor plugs as I have fitted at present (NGK D8EA)?

I am somewhat ignorant as to what reistance does in the ignition circuit - I've read some articles here & elsewhere about the duration of the spark and how it affects the fuel burn but tbh it's way above my head.