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Topics - McCabe-Thiele (Ted)

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227
CB350/400 / 400 mirror arm lengths are they unequal as standard?
« on: April 09, 2022, 01:07:24 PM »
The new mirror arrived this morning from DS and I have to say the finish is pretty good for the price.
My first observation is that cosmetically  it will do nicely - I guess what matters is if in use I can see anything aside from vibration distorted images.

What is apparant is the length of the arm is shorter than my left hand side part that projects beyond the end of the bars slightly.
Is this different length an original feature or is it more likely the left hand mirror bar is not original?

228
CB350/400 / Checking the valve timing on a 400.
« on: April 03, 2022, 04:57:39 PM »
Whilst working on my timing this afternoon I briefly got confused with where TDC is I started to use the 1-4 double mark on the right instead of the "T" on the far left.

That got me thinking if I could have made a similar mistake when I fitted the camshaft in place - I probably did not but I am concerned enough to need to double check.

Is it possible to check the valve timing without having to remove the top cover?

229
CB350/400 / Bar end mirrors for 400 any recommendations ?
« on: April 03, 2022, 01:33:35 PM »
The mirrors that came in a box of bits with the bike are clearly not fully original.  One is marked Hawk Japan that looks like an original, the second has a very short arm with an adjustable base swivel.  On most of my previous bikes that had mirrors fitted they gave me a great view of my shoulder so I'm going for bar end mirrors as my garage is wide enough for me not to catch them.

The inside diameter of my bars are 19 mm or thereabouts has anyone here used a brand that they can recommend please?

230
Despite having previously having installed the Dynatek Electronic Ignition (2020)and had the engine running I've basically forgot how I did the static set up so read the instructions and confused myself completely. I know to start with No:1 cylinder at TDC both valves closed on compression.

Quote from instructions:-

A) The left module fires cylinders 1-4 the right module fires cylinders 2-3 each provides an adjustment +/- 10 deg of adjustment. Moving them counterclockwise advances the timing and clockwise retards the timing. (YEP UNDERSTAND THAT)

B) All timing adjustments should be made using the advance timing marks on the advance assembly.  (YEP UNDERSTAND THAT)

1.To time the engine statically, connect a 12 volt test light from the junction of the blue coil wires to ground, Do not disconnect the wires. Use a wrench on the advance assembly hex washer to rotate the emgine. (YEP UNDERSTAND THAT)

2. Turn ignition switch ON. While holding the rotor in the fully advanced position (clockwise), slowly rotate the engine forward until the test light turns on. The right hand  advance mark for cylinders 1-4 should align with the fixed mark on the engine case, (CONFUSED)

(Similarly repeat for cylinders 2-3 OKAY)

The bit that has me stumped is as I am holding the rotor fully clockwise against the springs what is meant by "slowly rotate the engine forward" As I am looking at the engine from the timing plate side is forwards clockwise or anticlockwise?
 
I thought the engine rotates clockwise when running looking from the generator side of the bike - this means the engine is rotating counter-clockwise looking at it from the old points side.

So the question is does this mean I rotate the engine anticlockwise whilst holding the rotor fully wound clockwise to align the timing marks?

231
CB350/400 / 400 Vent pipes routing question(s)
« on: April 01, 2022, 04:17:30 PM »
From my memory the four carb overflow pipes are routed between the engine and the rear swing arm where they dangle down with an inch or so where the pipes end.

There is a vent pipe on the bottom of the air filter housing plus a vent on the black intake box between the carbs & the air filter.
I assume these two pipes terminate at the clip on the centre stand clamp area passing through the gap between the engine casing & the swing arm?

My crankcase pipe was cut off so not sure where that goes / ends up, likewise where does the battery vent pipe terminate as mine was missing?

232
CB350/400 / 400 wiring loom route question?
« on: March 23, 2022, 11:39:46 AM »
When I purchased my 400 the wiring loom was not really fitted as such - more thrown into place.

Yesterday when I came to tidy up the area to the front left side of the petrol tank area where loom meets handlebar switch cables the mini wiring strap was all sort of wrong so I am not happy with the loom route as it is.

I looked at some schematic loom diagrams I had downloaded from the internet.  I noticed that in the diagrams it shows the main loom where it passes under the petrol tank going over the top of the left side coil - presumably to keep away from engine heat?

Can anyone confirm that this is the correct route please before I hitch the loom above the LHS coil ?

Lastly at the rear does the rear brake light switch connect to the loom by crossing the back of the rear mudguard where it connects into the loom?
Again some photos show the rear brake light switch connecting on the right hand side of the bike with the loom split forking onto the RHS cover area?






233
Misc / Open / Daft fuel prices locally
« on: March 19, 2022, 02:46:07 PM »
Diesel at BP station £9.95 a gallion little wonder the place was deserted.
Typo meant  £8.95.

234
Misc / Open / LED H4 replacement bulbs experiences anyone.
« on: March 15, 2022, 09:01:40 PM »
My none standard headlamp on my 400/4 is fitted with a fairly standard H4 halogen bulb in December 2020 I purchased a LED replacement from e-bay branded a Bevinsee unit @ £7.99.
Whilst doing my wiring it worked fine they are not polarity specific - after about 3 lots of 5 second testing it worked fine - now its dud - I've tested it directly to a battery its blown.
In the past I have bought quite a few from China for our old Jeep and had no issues.

All my clock dial LED's I bought from Classic Car leds they have been fine - I priced a H4 from them (currently out of stock) they are £30.32 each plus delivery probably. Have folk here used reliable cheaper sources for LED bulbs or do I bite the bullet for better quality ?

My experience with e-bay warranties on Ni-Cad batteries in the recent past has taught me they are worthless.

235
CB350/400 / Rear wheel drive chain question.
« on: March 10, 2022, 01:52:53 PM »
Whilst waiting for some electrical connectors to arrive thought I would do my first chain adjustment.

I have looked at some previous posts on the subject but unsure if the markings on the 400 rear forks/swing arm are reliable.

I initially tried by pushing the front wheel & axle fully forward into the rear swing arm then when the two adjusters had taken up the  slack turned the two bolts by an equal number of turns until the chain movement was about right. The rear swing arm marks are not equal they are slightly further back on the main sprocket side with 7.5 turns each on the long adjuster bolts.

I've read about viewing it by eye in my manual but am minded to now go by the arm markings instead - what would folk  hear do?


236
CB350/400 / Clutch switch circuit not working question?
« on: March 08, 2022, 01:00:43 PM »
At present my starter lead is not connected as I do not want to turn the engine over whilst doing my wiring loom connections.
Most of my wiring loom is connected up and working as it should with just the horn to finally wire up plus  power to the electronic ignition.

When I have the bike in neutral the green neutral indicator illuminates up as it should with the ignition on - if I press the start button I can hear the starter solenoid click. I have checked wiring to the solenoid and also that the new clutch switch works in terms of making a circuit when the lever is operated.

If I put the bike in gear then pull in the clutch lever then operate the starter button it does not click. In this circuit is the Diode that plugs into the loom circuit fed by a green wire/red trace and pale green/red trace involved?

No idea what this little plug in diode does - is there a way to test it / can this fail causing my clutch switch circuit to not work as it should?

As an after thought could it be something as simple as the cable from the battery being bolted onto the wrong side of the solenoid as the green/red trace connection goes straight into the solenoid wheras the other connection is bolted on with the power lead from the battery?


237
CB350/400 / Honda CB400 wiring connectors
« on: March 05, 2022, 02:01:27 PM »
Can anyone point me in the right direction please I need a couple of these I think they are 3.5 mm size 4 way connector?
I do not want to cut the ones off my old loom as it might be of use to someone else when I have a clear out.



.4 way connectors by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

238
CB350/400 / How can I tidy headlight area Spaghetti Junction ?
« on: March 05, 2022, 12:28:05 AM »
I feel this subject has been asked before but can't find it.

My wiring connections in/at/behind the headlamp will need some sort of tidying up as I clearly can't just cram the headlight into position & hope for the best. There are no wiring sheathes like on other parts of the loom just the main loom wires, the small looms from the Instuments & the Instrument panel plus the clutch neutral switch.

Ideally the back of the headlamp bowl would be elongated to easily accept all the wires or there would be a neat rubber sphere where they would all fit. At the moment my only thought is cut some rubber from a wheelbarrow inner tube or similar arrangement.

What do folk her do to hide and/or protect the wiring at the back of the headlamp?



239
CB350/400 / 3 terminal flasher/winker units.
« on: March 03, 2022, 06:48:57 PM »
My old 3 terminal flasher unit is a big heap of rust inside so needs replacing - the daft priced DS replacement @£78 has only 2 terminals and is squareish not round,  presumably that means changing the connections somehow.

I have a NOS car unit in my garage that has three terminals marked L P & X am I right in thinking I can use this one as its designed for the same wattage bulbs and is the same diameter as the original?

240
CB350/400 / DS cheaper fuse box vs genuine part experience.
« on: March 03, 2022, 05:51:56 PM »
I'm in the preliminary stages of connecting up my wiring loom - my old fuse box was the worse for corrosion so needed replacing.
I have decided the cost of converting to blade fuses was more than I wanted to spend so bought the DS patern part as it was a lot cheaper than the genuine one.

Initially my side lights all worked fine then they decided to only work when the ignition was in P position.
After a bit of testing I found that the fuse for the tail lights was not live when sidelights only selected.

I removed the fuse box to access the rear of the connections to find one wire was no longer attached to the fuse clip.
Duly repaired and lights now working - not worth the effort of sending it back for the sake of a blob of solder.

It's cheaper for a reason or I was just unlucky.

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