Honda-SOHC

As I have recently received my restored clocks back from Peter Horton I decided to see if I can spruce up the lower housings - I believe they are some sort of stainless steel.

Although you can't see much of  the undersides when in place mine seem full of scratches & the odd rust type spot/blemish - asside from spending a day polishing on a buffing wheel that I do not have - any tips for cleaning them?

P.S. I know it has been said here before but Peter's craftsmanship is amazing I am in awe of such ability.

When I assembled the crankcase I pinched the tensioner rod back using the adjuster bolt so that the cam horseshoe arm was able to move freely, it was all good. ( Before fastening the crank case halves together I even tested it by letting the bolt go so it pushed on the Horseshoe the flat part of the plunger facing the pinch action lock bolt. The horseshoe arm was not fouling anywhere.) I had noticed that the top gallery bolt would only screw down part way when the retracted push rod was fully back. I checked that when the pinch bolt was released it allowed the top gallery bolt to fit. All good.

Today I released the pinch bolt expecting to hear the rod take up it's position by the spring action it did not seem to have really moved much but you can't really see anything - that said the gallery bolt did tighten down by hand so it must have moved a little.

Does this all sound normal - is there a simple way I can check that the system is working should I have released the pinch bolt before fitting the tensioner blade or cylinder head?

I have a feeling I might at least have to take the cam cover off to test it in some way.....please not another Ground Hog event - I have this empty feeling in the pit of my stomach - at least posting this has helped me a little.

Advice and platitudes all welcome.

I've started fitting the front brake system together using a new DS master cylinder & all new pipes - so far I've just got the untightened flexi pipes in place with unions & copper washers.

First thing I've noticed is that the brake lever seems larger than the existing clutch lever - also why is there a lug on the master cylinder bracket that prevents it butting up to the switch boss?
I see now why some folk fit the bracket upside down but presumably there is a reason for the spacing lug?

Secondly the mudguard clip position on my new front mudguard is such that the steel brake pipe does not align as it should so at present will not fit. My first thought was to just make up a copper pipe that will bend into position much easier. Might be the mudguard bracket is not quite as it should be?

That got me looking at the clip / gromett situation - I'm minded to push the metal part of the flexi pipe into the gromett so its firmly held by the mudguard clip then make up the new pipe to suit the new position - not bothered about it not being as per factory fit - has anyone tried this?

I forgot about the alternator casing needing a repaint - the centre section seems to be held in place by a wiring connection with the outer windings by three self tappers.

I remember when I removed the alternator case / cover the insides seemed loose & floaty.
I'm guessing the three JIS headed screws will be rusty tight - I can see that one has been mangled previously as there is what looks like a chisel mark on it.

Do folk here fully dismantle it before painting or polishing any tips for getting the screws out?

.alternator by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

The photos I took when I dismantled the rocker shafts are so dark & oily I can't see how the side springs were located on all the rockers.
My Haynes Manual shows the arrangement I have followed but this seems at odds with my original photo when it comes to number 4 inlet.

Do the ones in the photo below  look correct please?


.CB400 rocker shafts by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

Just wondering if it's worth me heating up my copper cylinder head washers to Anneal them or is this an extinct practice?

When is it best to fit the cam chain guides, before you fit the cylinder head or afterwards?

In NJ's rebuild they appear to be in place before fitting the cylinder head - I guess it's easier to put them in position at this stage as presumably you can use a torch to ensure they are fitted correctly at the bottom end?.