Honda-SOHC

I would rock the bike gently from side to side as you switch on the fuel - this might avoid unnecessary flooding due to the float needles being slightly stuck in the down position if the floats are dropped down from the normal position.

I was on the verge of taking my carbs off when they flooded on my first try to run the engine - did the side rocking and all was good - they have not flooded since - its easy to jump to conclusions about the cause of flooding especially if you have re-set float levels or done a carb strip down.

I checked my cold compressions after 12 years of not running - the good thing was they were all pretty much the same a not very inspiring 80 psi with the inlets plugged up!

After unplugging the inlets I tried to check the compressions again first two read 110 psi - then the gauge broke - it was a 50 year old Crypton Unit with a cracked housing and the rubber tapered end fell to bits! I plan to check them again with a cheap unit I bought on e-bay for £10.99 - the kit is better than I expected for the price.

My late fathers doctrine was don't check compressions if you do not have a problem as you will always be disappointed in the result!
True compression test is when the engine is up to running temperature of course.

Quote from: Macabethiele on October 19, 2020, 06:37:56 PM

Quote from: Nurse Julie on October 19, 2020, 05:44:44 PM

Quote from: Macabethiele on October 19, 2020, 05:42:22 PM

Quote from: Nurse Julie on October 19, 2020, 12:59:44 PM

It can be stripped whilst still in the frame Ted. Even the 400/4 engines are a heavy lump when complete. Remove, rocker cover, head, barrels and then its easier and lighter to lift the bottom end out.

Will it not come out as a  complete unit?
I can easily obtain assistance with a lift out.

Oh yes, it will come out in one lump very easily with 2 of you Ted. I assumed you would be doing it on your own and didn't want you to get a double hernia on top of your other issues

If there was room for bodies & hands I can get 2 to help me. Too late for a hernia warning they found a small one when I had my last scan. I've no idea how I got it as I'm very careful when I lift anything - I don't do heavy. Lol

It would have been your wallet before you started the Honda project


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Too close to the truth in that comment John - if I carry on at my present spending  rate I will have spent more on parts than I did on buying the bike in June 2020!

Since lock down I've done the accountants / auditors  trick - my eating out budget, fuel budget & holiday budget have been subsidising the bike build so it's not really costing anything - just swapping budgets with a small net saving.lol

I've not fitted it in position yet just unwrapped it and was underwhelmed with how thin & cheap it felt. It's a really bright shiny plastic case. Maybe it needs weathering in.

https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CB400F-SUPER-SPORT-FOUR/part_82422/


A couple of weeks ago I received the above "High Quality Aftermarket Direct Replacement" from DS and I am disappointed in the Quality aspect - is it just me as it seems a very cheap looking casing?

As I never had a CB400/4 back in the day am wondering if I expected too much or has the old casing aged to make it appear different?

The kit I bought from DS consisted of strainer, large rubber bit with holes as post plus 2 O rings and the  connector. I used my original connector as it was brass rather than plated steel.

Thank Guys tbh the responses sort of flagged up some of my fears. My brother has had dozens of pedal cycle frames powder coated never had a flexing issue so that was an interesting point raised about stands. There is a very good firm in Bot area that my BiL uses - he is a friend of the owners so that helps.
I assume there no touching in option with powder coating?

I understand the benefits of powder coating in terms of more paint on edges where the electrical charge attracts extra paint particles but what is this best way to restore your frame?

Assuming you do not have your own powder coating large oven etc is Powder Coating actually the best way to go?
I see the benefits if its done by a good firm - no doubt they will strip the frame etc so not much preparation involved for the customer aside from the initial strip down aspect.

What happens when you damage the finish is there a way of touching up that works?
I'm not a purist so the fact that the technology was probably not around means its not an original finish but who cares if its the best.

Is everyone on sohc a Powder Coater convert?