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Messages - McCabe-Thiele (Ted)
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6196
« on: October 14, 2020, 10:10:11 AM »
Hmm, never thought about it Mac... tho’ this stolen from Wikipedia..
“ An impact wrench (also known as an impactor, impact gun, air wrench, air gun, rattle gun, torque gun, windy gun) is a socket wrench power tool designed to deliver high torque output with minimal exertion by the user, by storing energy in a rotating mass, then delivering it suddenly to the output shaft. It was invented by Robert H. Pott of Evansville, Indiana.”
[/quote
In that case we agree a rattle gun is a great tool - it removed all my clutch casing screws easily. Mine has two torque settings for tightening but it defaults to maximum when undoing anything. I only use the tightening mode for wheel nuts - always using a torque stick - they are a clever invention for impact drivers.
6197
« on: October 13, 2020, 11:33:47 PM »
That gear does look very close I'm not familiar with your engine but how is the gear & flywheel located on the crankshaft is it a woodruff key & taper fitting ?
Is there any kind of spacer or thrust washer between the gaer and the crankcase any end float control?
6198
« on: October 13, 2020, 07:48:11 PM »
I suspect that 0.00271" would stop the balls moving within the cage - or at the very least bind. I'm happy to fit the ones from NJ they will be good for many years.
6199
« on: October 13, 2020, 03:59:51 PM »
Secondly, whilst not quite the impact driver you were perhaps considering, if you can spare the £ I’d go an 18v rattle gun - one of those tools you never knew you needed. Will do everything single handed from worn x-heads to wheel nuts...
Why do you call it a rattle gun it looks like a cordless impact driver to me unless Bosch have a different mechanism? Just realised it's probably "Pitjantjatjara" for Impact Monster.
6200
« on: October 13, 2020, 02:04:59 PM »
I agree with your theory that when the tap is on there is sufficient fuel head/pressure for the float valves to shut off - so no leak but the pressure to shut the valve comes from the float arm not the fuel feed.
When the leaking tap is in the off position the vortice effect will mean that the resulting line pressure to the carbs will be substantially reduced rather than just the flow volume this happens when there is a substantial restriction in the valve or tap- my theory is that then as there is very little pressure on the top of the float valve it seeps as natural evaporation from the bowl occurs causing the needle valve to drop open.
As you may probably know reducing the flow in a domestic cold water tap by turning the tap head only reduces flow not pressure - this is true unless you have something that reduces the pressure. Pressure in liquids behaves in a similar to voltage in a battery. I am guessing that the closed valve is acting as a restrictor. It's 50 years since I studied fluid technology at Uni so the detailed theory has gone! What you are left with is fluent pidgin english.
6201
« on: October 13, 2020, 10:28:53 AM »
The split pin holds pad B into the caliper body. The pin goes through the pad hole at the top, and through the hole in caliper B, then the ends spread. The reason for the swinging caliper design was at the time Lucas Hurling had a patent on opposed piston calipers, so Honda came up with this solution.
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I have this picture of Lucas Girling sponsoring a Hurling Team! Great typo - more interestingly fascinating background - I never realised that they had that particular patent. Reminds me of why Kennings Motors in the Derbyshire area became such a big vehicle retailer then started to wain in the 1970's to the point of almost extinction. The original founder of the Kenning Motor Group bought the distribution right for Shell Petrol in the 1920's for England I think it was. The 50 year deal gave them 2p (old Pence) on every gallon of petrol sold irrespective of whose forecourt you bought it from - this financed their expansion - then subsidised their losses in the latter part of the distribution deal.
6202
« on: October 12, 2020, 04:25:20 PM »
Doing a cold compression test will definitely not give you the best reading but it is a indication of what might come when the rings have bed in plus finally a hot engine test. That said I fully understand your anxiety to get some sort of handle on how good they will turn out to be. Back in the day when I was an avid BL A series engine tuner I remember changing to half race cams and finding compression sometimes lower - I blamed the change in valve overlap. Once driven I would be surprised at how well the engine could perform when on cam were talking over 3,500 rpm on those old engines.
6203
« on: October 12, 2020, 03:58:56 PM »
I didn't mention the odd split pin either! My pads didn't come with a split pin. Not sure what the purpose of the pin is?
6204
« on: October 12, 2020, 03:14:47 PM »
You definitelly need the valves adjusting before you can make an assesment of compression. Adjust the clearances and try again.
6205
« on: October 12, 2020, 02:24:19 PM »
"Anything else I need to worry about - the caliper bore looks good I have no idea if the piston seal is the original or has been replaced - it looks as the design does not include what I would describe as a dust/water seal/bellow."
Yep, there's a complete absence of weather/dust seal in these original designs. And one of the considerations in maintaining them.
Seal groove scrupulously clean, new ( soft and chewy  seal) and silicone grease to assemble it is all that's needed.
The piston "cover" plate effectively tries to compensate for the caliper swinging in an arc due to pad wear. Tries to allow the moving pad to remain aligned to the disc rather than be skewed by the flat face of the piston as the caliper effectively moves in an arc. This partially successful, but a compromise certainly 
Thanks for that info - the long bolt with a spring loaded adjustment screw seems a very odd thing to find on a disc brake as are the Pad A & Pad B set up. I guess twin pistons was just too expensive an option. It's not very self adjusting looking set up I have to say but assume it works reasonably well.
6206
« on: October 12, 2020, 01:17:48 PM »
The front brakes aside from the disc itself was all in bits in various boxes so yesterday decided to see what is obviously missing with a view to assembling the unit. I have photographed what I have - so far I need the to replace the following that is apparent at first glance. No mounting bolts or nut to attach the support to the front fork including associated washers. No bolts to clamp the two halves of the caliper together. The odd spring and long screw has no nut/end plus the screw is out of shape. It came with a replacement piston as the old one is badly damaged - it has a brass coloured end part - I am assuming that that goes against one of the brake pads. I have no pin between two pads mentioned in the manual but the roll pin type locaters for the pads are OK. I have new DS pads with the nylon pad cushion. DS I guess will be able to supply the bits that I have mentioned as missing & the long bent screw. Anything else I need to worry about - the caliper bore looks good I have no idea if the piston seal is the original or has been replaced - it looks as the design does not include what I would describe as a dust/water seal/bellow. . . . .  front brake parts by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr
6207
« on: October 11, 2020, 11:20:22 AM »
I've sourced one from NJ thanks guys. I think 13/32 is too big for the cage and the bit they sit in. The size is closest to 0.4 inch.
6208
« on: October 10, 2020, 03:39:00 PM »
They have not been available for years. PM Julie as i will have some somewhere.
I've measured them up they are 10 mm bearings - my brother should have some that size - if not I will contact NJ. Thanks
Not sure about the O ring its a small critter do you know the size by any chance?
The ball bearings are 10.25mm, so 10mm ones will fall out of the little baskets. I think the 10.25 size is specifically licenced to Honda, as I have searched worldwide for replacements and can't find any. Even in imperial, there is no exact equivalent.
When I measured mine they were 10.12 mm and are more like a golf ball texture. I need 3 that are much better not sure what to do.
6209
« on: October 10, 2020, 01:47:24 PM »
They have not been available for years. PM Julie as i will have some somewhere.
I've measured them up they are 10 mm bearings - my brother should have some that size - if not I will contact NJ. Thanks Not sure about the O ring its a small critter do you know the size by any chance?
6210
« on: October 10, 2020, 01:44:54 PM »
Thanks guys that very helpful. I'll nip the nut up when my new torque wrench arrives my old Britool Torque wrench is a good 50 years old but the scale starts at over 30 lb ft so decided to treat myself to a lower range wrench that I will need for cylinder head bolts etc.
I had the Britool recalibrated a good 30 years ago when it was fitted with a new spring - I always undo the adjuster so there is no tension at rest. Sadly I tend to use impact torque sticks on our 4 wheeled vehicles - its just so easy!
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