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Messages - McCabe-Thiele (Ted)
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6226
« on: September 02, 2020, 03:58:22 PM »
I like the idea of polished alloy wheels with SS spokes - I would retain the single disc brake and 18" wheel.
Great pics by the way.
Has anyone got a link for a supplier please ? - sounds like a perfect Christmas present from Wendy.
6227
« on: September 01, 2020, 08:11:46 PM »
Not sure where to post this question so as I have a CB400F2 I thought here is a good start. I've seen a few CB400 fours on e-bay with alloy wheels presumably from a later model - I don't think they suit but can understand why someone might fit them. Personally I like the period spoked wheels but was curious if fitting alloy wheels is a cheaper option than having existing spoked wheels refurbished. If I had to choose between retaining original but imperfect spoked wheels and fitting alloys I would be faced with a conundrum. As yet I have no idea how much a pair of decent reproduction spoked wheels with SS spokes would cost. 
6228
« on: September 01, 2020, 07:53:03 PM »
There are LED H4 lamps currently seeking approval. They have come a long way and are undoubtedly what everyone will be using in a few short years. The bulb below mimics a halogen H4 perfectly and has an ideal beam pattern. It's also the same size as a standard H4 and fits in any headlight shell.
The downside is that they currently cost around £30 each but that will drop to around a fiver in the next few years.
You are right the price will drop probably quite quickly as its a pretty big market world wide .Not sure how they can get the heat sink to be so small with a decent lifespan - not seen that shape before who is selling them - have you a link?
6229
« on: September 01, 2020, 04:01:17 PM »
Thanks both of you - I'm probably just thinking too automotive - there isn't much pressure as its just gravity !
It doesn't help that I didn't have the old ones to go by - that said all four of the fuel overflow pipes have small clips on them - not sure if that's original though.
Cheers
Ted
6230
« on: September 01, 2020, 01:56:18 PM »
My hose arrived today its from Planet Silicone 9.4 mm o/d 5.4 mm i/d went to fit it and realised as the bike came without a fuel pipe on it I didn't have any clips in the box of oddments I was given all my existing clips are automotive and far too big.
What size actual clip do I need is it 8 or 9mm to get enough pinch on the pipe?
Is S.S. worth the extra cost whilst I am buying?
6231
« on: September 01, 2020, 08:36:45 AM »
Wow that's one nice looking restoration - well done!
6232
« on: September 01, 2020, 08:34:57 AM »
My brother is a lifelong cyclist - he goes to a wheelbuilder as he found it incredibly difficult to true them up.
Hope it works out for you - I guess if you have the skills plus the patience as you learn then it will all go okay.
Best of luck with the wheel building!
6233
« on: September 01, 2020, 08:31:05 AM »
At least here, in Slovakia and Czech republic LED bulbs are illegal as retrofit of H4 bulb. And I think that also as bulb retrofit into tail/stop light (21W/5W bulb) or flasher (21W) are illegal too.
There is no LED replacement H4 bulb that is certified for road use to my knowledge (and will highly likely never be) due to its "beam" geometry, when in case of standard bulb source of light is very small piece of wire filament (kind of point source that is placed into specific place into headlight parabola to ensure defined beam geometry), while LED bulb uses multiple LEDs that emits light from other places compare to standard bulb and H4 parabolas are not designed for...
Only legal solution is to replace whole headlight that is "E" certified for motorbike.
Spot on, Erny! So far what buyers have 'seen'*, has not been confirmed by independent tests. What has been found however by the British AA, the German ADAC, the Dutch ANWB and the Austrian ÖAMTC, is that blinding headlights are the number one annoyance in todays traffic...
* What others, including me, see, is mostly: choice-supportive bias or post-purchase rationalization.
Most of the blinding headlamps I have experienced have been from manufacturers Bi Xenons not folk with old vehicles wanting something brighter than a candle as the reflectors go dull with age & the Polycarbonate goes milky. lol
6234
« on: August 31, 2020, 05:44:38 PM »
Thanks for that information it's reassuring that they may have fixed the problem by now. Shaving a bit of the mounting rubbers doesn't sound too bad but it presumably puts the coils slightly closer to the tank as well.
I havn't had a problem from that though.
With me having Dynatek coils I might have to do some fettling of the brackets if I replace the tank.
6235
« on: August 31, 2020, 05:42:16 PM »
In such circumstances although it probably doesn't matter I usually put the flat surface closest to the larger flat metal area and the other surface to the smallest area.
If both areas are the same then this will not apply!
I used to come across this type of thing with some copper type gaskets one face would be dead flat & the other would have the lip bulge around the edges where the squashable double surface was.
6236
« on: August 31, 2020, 02:47:28 PM »
DOT 5 Silicone is what we use in all of ours now Ted.
Wow I didn't think anyone would be using Silicone based brake fluid in a motor cycle presumably that is for using in a system that has no remaining Glycol-based fluid such as Dot 4.0. Are the existing seals suitable or do you have to upgrade for Silicone based fluid?
I believe Dot 5.1 is a synthetic Glycol-based fluid with slightly higher boiling point than Dot 5.0 but is still hygroscopic whereas Silicone isn't of course.
All our bikes have had the complete braking systems overhauled with new seals etc fitted, so no mix or contamination from the old non compatible brake fluid.
Looks like I will be using Dot 5.0 in the Honda as it will be either new parts or new seals at the very least.
6237
« on: August 31, 2020, 02:30:40 PM »
Sye... whilst power divided by volts indeed gives amps it’s not the full story when resistance is then bought into the equation. Your post fails to explain why lamps brighten as you increase the voltage - which you’ll know from 1st hand experience. The current (A) actually increases as you increase the voltage through the filament...the power rating of a lamp will be only be valid at the stated voltage .
Anyways, please don’t take my word on it, but rather google the explanation.
Yea, Deltarider, horses for courses. I’m gonna take a punt on the LED headlamp bulb, and will report back in due course. They annoyingly come in pairs... so if fail early I’ll have a spare 😂.
Trig... you say you’ve got LED replacement ‘globes’.... how are they performing?
I have had the cob type fitted to a 750 and a 550 for about a year or so and the 750 is just over a couple of thousand miles, since fitted with no problems. They are white light and not the yellow light you get from basic H4's.
I bought a trade pack of them and they worked out around £3 per bulb. I am no expert when it comes to electrics and can't understand why some of them have a cooling fan (which will not fit in the headlight bowl) and the cob type don't.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
I bought some of these bulbs by following the link that trigger posted.... that particular item was sold out but i did manage to find an exact same item for something like £1.98 each iirc. So i bought 3. They were due to arrive in mid sept but actually turned up in about 3 or 4 days, so i fitted them yesterday and they work and look great. I put one in each of the yamaha’s but kept the third as a spare since it wont fit in the Honda as it is still running the original sealed beam type unit and i would need to buy a replacement shell to fit it... prefer to keep her original if i can.. But if and when it ever fails i will definitely go with the leds.. at 6 quid for 3 bulbs its a no-brainer!
I have had quite a range of LED bulbs & lamps over the last 5 years or so - maybe things are improving with quality now but my early experience was that within 6 months -or much less in some cases LED clusters would either start strobing, flashing or just pack up completely. Depending on your MoT station retrofitting of LED bulbs can be an automatic fail especially if the dip cut off is poor.
6238
« on: August 31, 2020, 02:20:26 PM »
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-4-Side-LED-Headlight-660W-72000LM-Bulb-Kit-9006-9005-H4-HB2-9003-H7-H8-H9-H11/233294327251?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649I upgraded our old Jeep WJ with some LED bulbs I purchased from e-bay the Jeeps have some weird bulbs so it took me a while to find the right type of H4 without Canbus they were about £15.00 for a pair. Mine have a variant 9005 & 9006 our other Jeep has straight H4's. Luckily plenty of room behind our lamps for the quite large alloy heat sink that has a small fan built into it. My bulbs came with adapters so no change of wiring was required for the Jeep. I will certainly look at fitting this type of bulb as they use less power than a standard QI H4 bulb and push out a whopping amount of high frequency white light with a slight tinge of blue but not enough to detract. Unfortunately there is quite a lot lost in translation they are about 66 Watts including the fan not 660 Watts as stated. Our old bulbs would usually blow every 18-24 months so far I am not sure if the claimed lifespan is true. To date they have been in place for 8 months or so with no issues.
6239
« on: August 31, 2020, 12:52:39 PM »
DOT 5 Silicone is what we use in all of ours now Ted.
Wow I didn't think anyone would be using Silicone based brake fluid in a motor cycle presumably that is for using in a system that has no remaining Glycol-based fluid such as Dot 4.0. Are the existing seals suitable or do you have to upgrade for Silicone based fluid? I believe Dot 5.1 is a synthetic Glycol-based fluid with slightly higher boiling point than Dot 5.0 but is still hygroscopic whereas Silicone isn't of course.
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