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Messages - exelbyt
1
« on: October 07, 2017, 01:41:34 PM »
After adjusting valve clearances i (lazily) gave the bike a short run without the tappet covers on, to check it was running ok. This is what happened! Any ideas why oil would be squirting our of the valves on C1? (Strange noise at the end of the video must have been the woman on the radio!!) https://youtu.be/wQ_hIE97OGQSent from my iPad using Tapatalk
2
« on: September 13, 2017, 06:59:53 PM »
Carbs haven't been dismantled by me fully only cleaned as a bank.
The head gasket is leaking oil. Could this be effecting the situation or is it likely to not contribute. I am thinking it may be best to rebuild the head first and then work backwards.
Thoughts?
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3
« on: September 09, 2017, 06:58:22 PM »
Not sure how old they are but ive had them off and inspected them and they seem in good nick. I have also checked with wd40 while running and the revs still stick.
I have also checked the throttle cables and understand its not the idle screw.
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4
« on: September 09, 2017, 05:25:11 PM »
Hello All,
I once again need you help and guidance!
I am experiencing a hanging idle at 3000rpm. When warm the engine hangs at 3000 if rev'd, or rises on its own once hot to hang at 3000. I have been searching through different configurations but am yet to be successful. Once rolling she rides well with lots of power but at idle and slow speeds hangs at 3000.
Current setup;
Open exhaust
Air pods (i understand this is a big part of the issue but they are staying)
Keihin carbs; 130 main jet, 42 slow jet, needle clip 4(one up from bottom)
I have tested using the air screw - 0, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 1, 1 1/4, 1 1/2, 1 3/4 and 2 turns out. It seems to run best at 1 turn out but still hangs with all turns.
The plugs after idle are normal - not sooty. They is no smoke coming from the exhaust but i do think that it may still be running lean at idle hence the hang.
You thoughts would be welcome!
Tom
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5
« on: April 01, 2017, 08:24:39 AM »
This is on the assumption that it's the same as a 550.......
The block should plug into the socket previously used by the rectifier. The black wire and white wire should go to the wires of the same color that currently go to the regulator, the green to the old regulator is now unused.
The green must be a good earth and the black must be a good switched live, the voltage is sensed across these wires and will be too low or too high if either has a poor connection at some point.
A poor connection may be the route cause of your problem not the reg/rec, or the original reg may be out of adjustment. On my bike I had both of these issues, and the same as you I bought a modern unit first which was not needed - and in my case doesn't work properly anyway so I'm back to the original parts.
Is the reg/rec the same for the 500? I am having charging issues and cant see why! What was the final issue with the modern unit you installed? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
6
« on: November 23, 2016, 10:33:54 PM »
This weekends task is to make a battery/electrics box to go under the seat so i cam ride without side covers.
Anyone got any tricks or knows where i cam get one cheap to save the effort?
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7
« on: November 06, 2016, 01:29:28 PM »
Got it - thats what I meant. Thanks
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8
« on: November 05, 2016, 11:59:09 AM »
Ok so it seems that on my carbs the screws on two of the float chambers have had the threads stripped. Any clever ideas on how to sort this out so it wont leak fuel?
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9
« on: October 30, 2016, 12:34:58 PM »
So - i have changed the clip position back to the middle (3) position and run the bike (air screw out 1 turn). It was still running a bit rough around 1/2 throttle and 5000rpm. I then tried it with the choke open 1/4 and that made a big difference, it was running much better. I also tried it with the choke open 1/2 and then with the air filters off, but this was less successful.
Hopefully this is adding to the picture of the biked issues, maybe someone has an idea how to sort it out?
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10
« on: October 29, 2016, 11:56:55 AM »
No using pods, i have checked the plugs and they all seem to be healthy and clean!  Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
11
« on: October 29, 2016, 10:57:01 AM »
PROGRESS REPORT;
I have now sorted all the issues by replacing the sprocket to one closer to stock (35t) and rebuilt the carbs.
The latest issue is to do with tuning the carbs. I have scoured all the threads on sohc and found a wealth of information about carbs etc.
I am currently running
100 main, 40 idle jets
1 and half air screw
Clip position 4/5
With the same exhaust and air filter from the picture about.
It still isnt running right. There is a flat spot which occurs at 1/2 throttle and since i change to 100 main jet (from 130) it has been stalling intermittently at idle after a short run. Up until 1/2 throttle it seems to purr fine, but after 1/2 and about 5000revs it doesnt seem to be firing on all cylinders.
Any thoughts? Or any good ideas on where to look for advice?
Thanks!
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12
« on: June 18, 2016, 09:27:47 PM »
Thanks Steve, i have now got it running so much better;
Clip position 3(standard) and 130main jets have made an improvment. Still a flat spot about 1/4 throttle, im thinking i need to move clip to position 4(bottom position)
Thoughts?
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13
« on: June 08, 2016, 07:56:16 PM »
Hi,
I need an expert to have a fettle at the carbs on my cb500.
Can anyone recommend someone in the SE preferable near Basingstoke/Reading area.
Thanks
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14
« on: April 25, 2016, 09:32:47 PM »
I had a weeping head gaskett for years, in my case I had no issues with tickover being high. I read somewhere that Honda cables are tefalon lined and may swell if oiled, but a remote fuel supply rigged up should give a clear view of if the carbs and cables are free to move their full range, and give access to try spraying something like wd40 onto the inlet tract to see if it highlights and inlet leaks, I personally suspect it is how the cables are routed from carb to twist grip or someting jamming against part of the carbs. I take it the choke is working normally.
I will try the WD40 trick. The throttle cable is brand new, is routed freely to the carbs and the carb has full range of movement and rests on the stop when the throttle released.
15
« on: April 25, 2016, 07:30:17 PM »
500 forks badly need the steel mudguard as a fork brace, or an aftermarket equivalent
Seems to be a common theme here - i will try adding a mud guard Thanks for all the replies!
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