Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB750 => Topic started by: haynes66 on February 08, 2019, 05:38:15 PM
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i'm finally back in the shed after a very long break and i've yet to put my F2 cases together. i know i've been told that my standard cylinder studs should be ok, but having seen some of them twist slightly when trying to get them out, i'm really tempted to bite the bullet and get some APE ones. more for piece of mind than anything else, and i know i'd be kicking myself if a standard one snapped. any other recommendations?
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The problem i found with APE studs or any other stud that doesn't taper is, that it restricts the oil flow. Honda tapered them for this reason ;)
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i was wondering about that.
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although cyclex studs arent waisted either, but they use them on race bikes
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As you say race bikes that have there engines stripped quite often ;)
I don't do too much work on the F2 heads but, do they have the oil return hole next to the valve ? If these holes are restricted from oil flow then you get a build up of oil and sludge in the valve well.
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I think the F2 has some domed nuts and different oil drain routes so the heads and barrells dont transfer.
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Think the F2 has half the number of drains from head back to sump (stand to be corrected) trying to keep oil retained to prevent guide wear maybe?
If oil level is higher around valve stem, then with any wear they just smoke more.
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What i have never understood is why all the aftermarket studs are the same thickness all the way (maybe because its cheap ). Honda spent a few hours designing the studs to be tapered for a reason, it would of been much cheaper for Honda to make the studs like the aftermarket ones but, they didn't for a reason.
I did do the maths on the oil flow to the head sometime ago and how much it was reduced by using aftermarket studs but, can't find the scrap of paper at the moment. I did this as i use upgraded O rings on the oil ways and found with the non tapered studs and larger O rings the oil ways became almost blocked ;)