Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB750 => Topic started by: PHILIP2908 on May 31, 2021, 09:21:32 AM
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Hello everybody - hope you are enjoying the sunshine.
We all know one thing leads to another; on the CB750 that's been fighting me for 5 years, what I thought would be a quick clean out of the tank has led to a paint job. I can't justify a professional job as the rest of the bike is a bit shabby. So a rattle can it had to be - just like the 70's.
I bought some Candy Apple Red, coarse silver basecoat and a can of 2K lacquer and using my new spray-booth (garden) I set about the task. It's come out well so far and I'm just waiting for some stripes from Piki; I'll get those on and then apply the lacquer.
I got the paint from Complete Cafe Racer https://www.facebook.com/CompleteCafeRacer for about £60; very quick delivery and a very helpful chap on the 'phone answering all my dumb questions. Highly recommended.
I'll post again when I have finished it (probably October).
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That takes me back quite a bit, I spent a lot of time back in the seventies wielding rattle cans, my 750 started out as gold, then blue, than white. The white was an accident as I was using a white undercoat for another colour but it looked that nice that I kept it white.
Cheers
Dennis
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That looks pretty good to me and did a rattle can paint job on my rd as could not afford a professional job
And at the end of the day really is just paint you are applying be it via a spray gun or rattle can and it’s preparation and finishing is where when you are flattening off the top coats that creates a perfect mirror finish that give the professional look
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210531/0008e6c8988d82edbfa94a7c901adffe.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210531/9a8bc54f26df7c52f0d879b74af8cd26.jpg)
Just one note
Just make sure you remove the paint where the fuel cap seals as if paint and lacquer are still there petrol can leach under the paint layers and screw up the tank finish in this area
Again nice job
Best wishes Al
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Nice looking paint job. Reminds me of when I had a Mini that I could not afford to have resprayed circa 1979. I flatted it all down using rattle can primer. Then realised the colour coat was going to cost me a fortune. I ended up buying a tin of brushing only Coach Enamel. It was 2-3 hours. Before it was touch dry during that time every variety of winged insect decide to have a paddle! I found out how good Brasso was for removing fly legs.
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I painted our Marina van with gloss black Tekaloid brushing enamel, probably doubled the value. As you say, painting outside is like a biology experiment, who knew there were so many flying seeds and insects about?
The RD and Philip's CB750 both looking good, I'm guessing you need a special can for Kenny Roberts' signature. He's a hero of mine, who I have met. To me, riding a 140mph TZ750 dirtracker, with virtually no brakes (a little disc on the rear, probably so you didn't crash into a van in the paddock), is as ballsy as it gets. Banned after even Roberts and Cal Carruthers voted to ban it, he famously said 'they don't pay me enough money to ride that thing'.
(https://amcn.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/cf4552c56ce7586d1d9e8e6508215247.jpg)
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lots of really nice rattle can paintwork there....
I have done a few tanks and sidepanels in rattle can paint...but thopse put my efforts to shame. Not enough coats, not enough lacquer, not enough rubbing down of the fine wet and dry :)
yeah...rush jobs :)
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Hello Everybody,
The candy red paint is on. I had to start again as the first effort turned out like candy apple maroon; I had put too much red on. So, more time and effort – what started out as a tank de-rust job has turned into a full (rattle can) paint job lasting about 6 weeks.
I have stripes from Piki (thank you) but I need please someone to pop out to their garage and take a few measurements for me so I can get the stripes positioned exactly. I’ve done a search of the site (and the USA one too) and can’t find any detail. If it's in there somewhere, I apologise, but if you search ‘tank’, you’ll know what I mean.
Hopefully, the photo will appear somewhere in or near this post. [attach=1]The measurements needed, in new school mm, please are:
A - distance from outside of tank filler neck down to top of stripe
B – distance from bottom of stripe to the top of tank lettering at ‘A’ (of HONDA)
C – distance from bottom of tank lettering at ‘A’ to tank bottom
D – distance from outside of tank filler neck to ‘Preserve nature’ decal
E – distance from tip at end of stripe to bottom of tank
F - distance from bottom of stripe to the top of tank lettering at ‘H’ (of HONDA)
G - distance from bottom of tank lettering at ‘H’ to tank bottom
You may be wondering why I need measurements of where the tank badge is. Well, the previous owner had filled the recess and holes with body filler to get that smooth cool look and in rubbing down the tank it appears there is a huge dent in that location and it is sitting under about 25mm of pudding. Decided to leave well alone for the time being. This bike has been kicking me in the nuts for 5 years now and I just want to get it on the road. So, it looks as though I will glue the badges on or at the very least use some vinyl stickers.
Thanks in advance to anyone who takes up this challenge; there is an offer of a pint/breakfast, whichever is appropriate, should we ever meet.
Kind regards
Phil
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Hello Everybody,
No response so far. Can anyone help ?
Thanks in advance.
Phil in Cheltenham
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Hi Phil, sorry don’t have the measurements but hopefully someone on here will have a similar paint job they can get measurements from. Seen some lovely paint jobs with very badly placed decals/stripes and it just ruins the overall look.
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Hi Phil, I'm away until Wednesday and if you aren't sorted by then, I'll do the measuring for you (75 UK K2)
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Hello,
Really disappointed no-one has responded so PHIL WARD you are the man to supply the measurements !! I m ready to apply the stipes now the paint work is finished.
As a reminder the need is for:
A - distance from outside of tank filler neck down to top of stripe
B – distance from bottom of stripe to the top of tank lettering at ‘A’ (of HONDA)
C – distance from bottom of tank lettering at ‘A’ to tank bottom
D – distance from outside of tank filler neck to ‘Preserve nature’ decal
E – distance from tip at end of stripe to bottom of tank
F - distance from bottom of stripe to the top of tank lettering at ‘H’ (of HONDA)
G - distance from bottom of tank lettering at ‘H’ to tank bottom
I - distance from front leading edge to HONDA badge (previous owner filled in a dent there with a ton of filler so going to have to figure a way to attach badge)
Sorry it seems a lot and i thank you or anyone else in advance. At least it will serve as a reference for others in future.
Thanks,
Phil in Cheltenham[attachimg=1]
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Hi Phil, I"m out this morning but will measure this afternoon
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Here you go
A - distance from outside of tank filler neck down to top of stripe -107mm
B – distance from bottom of stripe to the top of tank lettering at ‘A’ (of HONDA) - 30mm
C – distance from bottom of tank lettering at ‘A’ to tank bottom - 95mm
D – distance from outside of tank filler neck to ‘Preserve nature’ decal - 32mm
E – distance from tip at end of stripe to bottom of tank - 85mm
F - distance from bottom of stripe to the top of tank lettering at ‘H’ (of HONDA) - 30mm
G - distance from bottom of tank lettering at ‘H’ to tank bottom -100mm
I - distance from front leading edge to HONDA badge (previous owner filled in a dent there with a ton of filler so going to have to figure a way to attach badge) - 120mm
Bear in mind that tank stripe may be from different sources (mine done 6 years ago and can't remember were I got mine from0 and please check following post for picture of my tank to make sure you are happy with the wy mine is positioned
Phil
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Picture of tank that measurements are based on(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210617/1090b8befc12f7fa64458820e2b267f7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210617/6344c63a4a582ad67315027dad7c9482.jpg)
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Phil,
I can't thank you enough. Thanks for taking the time & trouble.
I will attempt to get the stipes on tomorrow and will post the results.
Thanks again.
Phil in Cheltenham
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Your welcome - plenty of soapy water (it goes against the grain to put soapy water on glue but it doesn't seem to affect it) - loads of youtube guides to look at. Good luck
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Hello again Everybody,
The stripes are on ! It was tricky persuading a flat piece of vinyl to go around a compound curve like the one found on the front of a CB750 tank. This was very challenging for someone used to sticking transfers on an Airfix Lancaster back in the 60s but after about 15 minutes, plenty of soapy water and a hair dryer, they are on and I’m really pleased with the result.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=1]
It reminded me of why I wanted a Candy Red CB750 so much in the first place. And the reason is when I was a schoolboy in the 5th form in 1969, I had reached 16 years old and bought a Honda C100 50cc for £25 from an older school friend. This was seen by me as a purely practical need to dispense with the pedal bike and the pain of cycling up hills to get to school - this was not an urge to go motorcycling. That is until I saw this:
[attachimg=1]
This is the one thing that switched me into a lifetime of owning motorcycles and riding them. It is the picture from the 1969 Honda brochure where there is a page for each of the range CD175, CB250 etc. with a picture and technical spec; but on the very last page was this. I thought that guy was so cool and still do: the casual clothing and shoes, bimbling along between the hedges on what is probably the simplest and most iconic tank design in a very striking colour; this really made an impression on me and spent ages staring at it. And I really wanted one and 52 years later, I have got one.
The CB750 I restored in the late 80’s (JGN 699N – showing as SORN’d somewhere, I’m so pleased it’s still around) was easy when parts were dirt cheap (nobody wanted them then) but candy paint and repro tank stripes were not easily available and if they were, not easy to find - no internet then you see. I sprayed it a Ford Cortina metallic dark blue which was close to the original planet blue (I think) and with a bit of masking created some acceptable tank stripes. But it was not candy red.
Anyway, after that holistic experience, the next step will be the 2K lacquer; again from Complete Café Racer. This £20, 400ml aerosol needs to be ‘activated’ by pulling a plunger on the base of the can and then used within 24 hours although keeping it in the fridge will extend this.
Will advise progess when hopefully I have managed to put many layers of lacquer on ready for a bit of buffing.
Talk soon. Ride safe.
Phil in Cheltenham.
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Sorry, managed to post one image but 3 times DOH!
It should have been these:
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=1]
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They look great, nice one
Cheers
Dennis
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They look good in that red colour, almost as good as the R107 SL is it in the background!
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That is looking great, that colour will fairly pop when the lacquer is applied.
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Looking good Phil - my favorite colour for the 750 - I have a spare Candy Red paint set that i keep saying I'll put on my Planet Blue K2 (its just the colour change on the logbook I'm hesitating about)
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Now that looks beautiful, cant wait to see clear applied
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Started spraying on May 31st and still not finished after 14 weeks.
As a reminder, I decided to save a bit of money on spraying the tank and side panels myself. I ended buying about £120 worth of aerosols from Complete Cafe Racer; silver base coat, candy apple red and 2K lacquer.
The candy apple, being a translucent paint, varied in shade depending on how much was applied. Too little and it would look pink and too much it would look maroon. Added to this was the fact that sometimes the aerosol spattered leaving darker blobs – the result was: start again with the silver base coat and then re-apply the red.
And then the 2K lacquer from which I was hoping to achieve a nice shiny clear coat did just the opposite an left a frosted finish that had to be rubbed down – too much rubbing down could (and did) lead to breaking through the red to the silver base coat. Start again.
This is the ring pull on the bottom of the 2K lacquer aerosol that had to be pulled to start the internal mixing. Then it had to be used in 24 hours otherwise it went off.
Faced with yet another purchase of more 2K lacquer, I have decided to hand the tank and side panels to my local bodyshop who will cover the items in a good layer of lacquer – cost £100.
Would I do it again this way? Definitely not ! I’m up to £220 so far and would have been better off handing the items to a custom body shop and let them do it. The reason is that the aerosol spray fan width is too small whereas a proper spray gun in a boy shop has a wider angle spray which would help get a more consistent and even colour finish.
Having sprayed a few tanks in the 70s with aerosols from Halfords, you could ladle the paint and lacquer on and get a good thick shiny coat. Not so with candy paints. (Another) lesson learnt.
As mentioned in another thread, the 4 pipe set and fixings are now here and I hope to get it all together soon for my first ride out in 20 years.
Cheers my dears.
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Very interesting and honest post about the painting process. Back in the 1970's I did a stint in a paint shop for a couple of weeks - in the days when dealers had there own bodyshops. It was when you used lead rather than compound fillers. In the last few days after seeing the painter Paul apply paint I had a go with the gun - I think his reply was - great job Ted a shame about the curtains!
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Just to add to the theme of painting, it so happened that I just finished my painting my tank and side panels for my 750k3. I did ask around locally a couple of guys to see if they were interested in painting my tank and side panels, but they were less than enthusiastic about taking it on. So I thought what could possibly go wrong if I had a go myself!!! I had already done the preparation and had the paint delivered from RS Paints. I must admit I didn’t find any of the stages of painting challenging at all. I purchased enough paint to do the job twice over but thankfully once was enough. Attaching the decals were a little tricky but turned out OK. Finishing off with three coats of lacquer. I have to flatten down yet and buff but apart from that it’s done. Quite pleased with my £11 spray gun from Lidl.😂
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I’d be happy with that. Nice job.
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That looks really good John.
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Phil, you should receive a medal for perseverance ☺️☺️☺️
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Thanks Julie and Sesman. Yes I agree, Phil you have not had a smooth ride with your paint job! Turned out good to end up with.
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Hello Everybody,
This is an old post which as you can see is titled 'Bank Holiday rattlecan' as I started this on May 31st last year - that's how long stuff takes when you've got a job like mine.
Having applied (badly) the candy apple red via a rattle can i then tried to do the same with spraying on 2K lacquer; made a mess of it and so handed it over to my local body shop who did this for £100.
[attachimg=1]
The lacquer looks about 1mm thick and the shine literally deflects any attention away from the flaws in the candy paint. I'm really happy with it.
Total cost so far about £320. Should have handed it to a pro in the first place - would have been quicker and maybe cheaper.
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That’s looking good Philip! Nice colour. What stage is the bike.?
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That looks seriously good, whatever the method it turned out right in the end which is the main thing.
Cheers
Dennis
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Great job - looks really good. I also have a local sprayer that I use at similar cost and effect - I provide the correct paint/decals and he applies the finish (he gives me it back between coats for me to apply the decal as he is not an expert in specific classic bikes)
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They look great, once the badges are on will be fab.
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I just have to sort the carbs as one is seriously rich; stick on the DS 4-4 pipe set (sold the old 4-2 on ebay for £100), stick on the tank, a splosh of petrol and should be good to go. Only taken 5 years !