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Messages - K2-K6
1
« on: May 03, 2024, 04:52:22 PM »
Well done that chugs along lovely!
Why only one valve operating? Assuming that is what it is / induction exhaust cycle etc??
The intake valve may be simple vacuum operation, needing no cam to apply it during the "suck" stroke .... matches the cadence of a slow rpm without complication of mechanical opening.
3
« on: May 03, 2024, 09:49:52 AM »
Nice work Johnny, they sound so calm running, like a little mechanical heartbeat.
Testament too, to how well the design and materials originally made them so durable.
4
« on: May 02, 2024, 07:32:58 PM »
Another Day another Beach... getting lucky with weather again
(Attachment Link)
Looks a nice day out, is that Perranporth you're at ?
5
« on: May 01, 2024, 05:03:39 PM »
Thats my understanding too ... obviously two pickup though to give the 180 degree timing point.
6
« on: April 30, 2024, 09:40:32 AM »
For me the question is formost: can I indeed compensate the needles clip in 4th groove by adjusting the air screws to two turns out, like that American Honda specifications booklet suggests or should i return to the European set up with needles clip in 3rd? I have always had my doubts about that US booklet and I therefore volonteered to experiment.
They are going to compensate in different ways, although overlapping in their effect, the two changes that is. Lifting the needle iis going to give a response in fuelling curve in roughly a parabolic curve being nil or low change at closed throttle slide ... also nil at full open, with increase in fuel through that curve region. Essentially raising the equalised air fuel ratio throughout the mid range of slide position by placing the needle higher in that air controlled slide movement. The change in idle jet circuit will not shift the maximum flow without change to the jet number .... but will give less fuel at idle by opening the air inlet via the screw .... then reach maximum flow for that circuit (conditional on that jet number) further up in the vacuum range of venturi flow. Longer "slope" response from idle circuit, meaning it doesn't ramp up /accumulate fuel increase in quite such an steep response as having the screw further inwards. This may give you flat spot just off idle when lifting the throttle initially, it can also give problems at idle in consistency as it requires the slides to be set lower on "master" rpm screw, making it potentially out of range in vacuum specifications listed in carb balance. Sometimes this affects throttle response in rolling the power on and off as the vacuum gets too high with closed throttle when closed with revs higher .... feels a little "sticky" and non linear with more severe engine braking affect on closed throttle.
7
« on: April 29, 2024, 11:50:38 AM »
Update: I ended up going back to the USA before continuing with this "project." While there I came across a complete points plate/advance unit in a garage sale for 10 USD! I checked the condensers with a real capacitor tester (not a multimeter) and they show good as far as capacitance and voltage. Points are original ND and look essentially unused.
Now I'm back in the UK eyeing these parts wondering whether I REALLY want to install the OEM system or just leave the perfectly functioning DSS EI in place. Logic/common sense would dictate leaving the EI; but I have this NON-common sense urge to have the points in there...
I haven't awakened the 400 yet from it's winter slumber - been too cold/wet for me but hope to do that sometime this week. It's probably not often that someone has a perfectly running machine and intentionally changes something that may make it less so and I can't think of any operational advantage that the points would provide! Yes, they will provide a spark with less voltage than EI but I haven't seen any case with my 400 where low voltage is an issue. So more thinking...
I'd be inclined to keep the fitted DS system to run it, bag the original and store to see if there's need later on. I doesn't look to me that you could tell the difference between the two from running perspective, conditional on the points system working as it should when new. But ultimately it will wear more during use. It is hard (seems common across many points system in different manufacturers) to get condensers that would fully support competent running now. Many complaints across different forum etc. If youve bought that good set and want them as backup longer term, running the DS system appears sensible. More personal decision than any real practical choice, with either being fine in running the engine.
8
« on: April 29, 2024, 11:43:32 AM »
The "Hondaman" units, along with some others, use the points to trigger with electronic load switching of coils to give hybrid system.
Boyer uses all electronic, triggering, advance/retard (deletes std mechanism) with internal curve determination, multi spark at low rpm, control of dwell independent of crank speed etc .... essentially a full change to most automated into that unit of most system on offer.
9
« on: April 28, 2024, 05:58:38 PM »
"I have a cheaper Bahco set it was about £20 back in 2021 not sure why this one is so much more expensive. Not sure what they/yoou mean by "pass through" ?"
Both the socket and it's drive are hollow Ted.
Describing my set ... the sockets are driven by external hex (19mm think ) rather than 3/8 etc square, with the extension bar hollow too.
Think they were originally for "stud" work so you could slide the assembly over long bolts rather than need "deep" sockets.
Coincidentally, they can be arranged to make very competent plug spanner (plug top just goes inside the extension bar) and seem to fit into various cylinder head recesses easily, while not having too high bulk around head to prevent competent alignment etc.
By no means essential, but do work in quite severely restricted installation .... in some cases.
Mine also with "Swan neck" gentle curve in ratchet handle that gives very shallow stack height, guess low profile would be good description, but also flips over to place the handle up or down in relation to surrounding frame bits etc.
10
« on: April 28, 2024, 05:07:30 PM »
Why not? If you can design for whole numbers you can design for half way
In my understanding most of us took the D8ES-L heat range for in between 7 and 8.
Thats my view of extending the central electrode out into the combustion chamber too. It would allow it to heat more than a straight 8 to raise potential tip temperature, but not as much or as far as a 7 ..... well that's how I visualise it, whether that's true or not. Any arrangement with longer route from porcelain at tip into the surrounding structure SHOULD make the tip retain more temperature .... that's generally what plug design achieves. Wouldn't an 8.5 be called a "9-L" by that description ?
11
« on: April 26, 2024, 09:42:10 AM »
If there's response by swapping the leads over (within one oil pack) then analysis of why that could happen may give answer.
There's specific performance in the condenser relating to this (if the original system is in place) with it's ability to fire the mixture.
The opposite ends of the coil have slightly different spark characteristics, with also the condition in cylinder from the live one to the wasted spark one maybe causing a bias to disadvantage the live cylinder on compression and give a shift in performance to that cylinder.
Swapping the leads checks for that, also the insulation of the HT too.
12
« on: April 26, 2024, 09:26:13 AM »
Interesting thread. This fouling at idle - is this when the revs drop after running steadily for 20 seconds and can be cleared by revving the throttle to restablish the steady idle? Mine does have that tendency on the denso plugs but also one cylinder which is cooler than the others so I’m guessing that’s the one that fouls.
I have found on many different bikes cars lawnmowers-that iridium plugs give better starting, smoother idle and avoid fouling on two strokes. It seems there isn’t one available for the 550 - why not ?
Think I'd initially swap the plug lead with it's paired one to see if the cool running transfers with that lead. If it stays where it was, then looking more at that cylinder condition, compression analysis to count that out, idle jet system to ascertain if there's any impairment.
13
« on: April 26, 2024, 07:59:32 AM »
No experience on that bike from me either.
Does the gearbox have any problems now ?
If not, then an oil change to look a what's in there (presuming it's seperate lubrication? ) and check through for specular particle etc would be worthwhile prior to the general restore. Could be fine without strip and attention, with dedicated gearboxes unlikely to be compromised if lubrication has been OK through life.
If it's EP oil spec in there, my "favourite" oil is Motul EP 75w80 if that's in compatible range from specification.
14
« on: April 25, 2024, 06:47:36 PM »
Oh, your ape hangers may not fit florence
15
« on: April 25, 2024, 06:41:32 PM »
Obvious check, starter clutch sprag, it's engament and ability to turn the motor. There was updated material specification for them .... should be in there on later build apparently ... no way to really check parts. It should though engage instantly, not hear it dragging without crank turning (slow moaning / screech) and fire it pretty promptly. Not helped if battery is low or not up to scratch in giving the sprag a good "hit" to get bite and rotation. If slow from battery, don't keep doing it as it won't help lifing. Fork seals, check for weeping as they can get a bit gummy. Rear brake caliper gers alot of water as underslung .... give pedal a good squeeze, then roll it back and forth to asses release. Not hard to service, with two slide pins and lubrication of pistons etc. It will need reasonable and regular inspection if used year round, though not a show stopper. Tires, check for alignment as wheel beeds are very well toleranced and resistant to popping the tire up onto correct place to run true. They're tubless too. Must run antifreeze all the time, not water. Generally tough and reliable overall. Great torque from motor, like a diesel bus ![Smiley :)](http://www.sohc.co.uk/Smileys/default/smiley.gif) don't need to rev much for pace. Feel very different to many fours in character, can feel a bit top heavy with full tank, though steer very neutral considering they're not race rep type bike. Easy going to ride, you've got to load the pegs and muscle the bars if you really want to get them moving fast. Nice bike to own.
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