Honda-SOHC

I used Halfords own high temperature paint. Worked fine on the engine and barrels and head.
Not done many miles since, but it looks OK.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r31/Gearbox_photos/front.jpg[/img]]

Good luck

Seamus

Hi Steff

I think I torqued the bolt as per manual at rebuild. It has not worked at all, unfortunately, but it is still worth a go in case I missed it. Thanks for the suggestion. If thid faile, I'll pull it out and bench test
Regards
Seamus

Hello All,

My neutral light is playing up on the K1. It used to work prior to the rebuild, but now stays on. I have tried disconnecting at the switch to see if it is a short and it goes out. Occasionally it will now extinguish in 3rd gear. I guess the switch will have to come out, and hope that I don't have to drain the oil for this. Anyone know if they can be cleaned or is it time to replace it?

I was hoping it would just settle down and work and to be honest was more interested in getting everything alse tuned etc.
As I have not posted and pictures of the beast, I have attached one here.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r31/Gearbox_photos/IMG_2056a.jpg[/img]]

Cheers

Seamus

Heli coil kits are easy to use. I have re threaded some for the same purpose as you.

Careful drilling of the hole and then tap for the insert (in the kit). Fit coil with the tool supplied and break off the tang. It is actually that simple. See http://www.fjr1300.info/howto/helicoil.html  for more detail.
There are different flavours of helicoil kit (recoil for example) Avoid the really cheap ones as they may not be so good.
Any good tool shop will sell you a kit. The kits come normally with everything for one size (eg M6).

A quick google will get you suppliers (example https://www.portlandtools.co.uk/Hand_tools/Thread_repair/ )

Good luck

Seamus

Interesting point Bryan. First you must find a tester the remembers how loud a bike of that age was!! Not too many with original exhausts to compare against...
Always worth a chat with the tested before hand to see how they feel about the noise.
Cheers

Seamus

Success at last. , I gave the subject a good think, removed the sump plate for a look. Figured that the stop valve (valve that stops oil from tank draining into the sump when the bike is not running) was my problem. I could remove the two bolts securing it and then pulled out the spring and plunger. Oil started to pour out, so I refitted everything. Spun the motor (with the sump off) and the light went out pretty quickly. Refitted sump etc and spun the motor over for another two 30 second sessions to get the oil round properly. Oil level in the tank went down considerably. 

I guess filling the sump with oil does not work as the scavenge side of the pump just pumps it back into the tank and the feed side does not get primed.   

Thanks again for the suggestions

Cheers

Seamus

It was working before the dismantle, so I expect that it is still working. To be sure, I took off the gallery plug and it was bone dry in there, so I filled it with oil. I also transferred about a pint of oil from the tank to the rocker and will leave it untill tomorrow for another try. I am away for a few days from Monday, so will not get to do much more till then, but I suspect the sump plate will have to come off.

Cheers

Seamus