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Messages - Seamus
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556
« on: June 28, 2009, 11:48:21 AM »
Any idea how long it should take. I have flattened the battery spinning the engine and that light just shines back at me. I have been doing 30 second bursts with plugs out, then leaving for a short time for things to cool.
Thanks
Seamus
557
« on: June 25, 2009, 12:19:44 PM »
Thanks for that Steve. I have looked at the wiring diagram for the 500 and it is very similar if not the same as my K1. However the detail regarding the solenoid connections is much clearer and solves my problem.
Thanks again
Seamus
558
« on: June 25, 2009, 08:22:59 AM »
Hello All,
I am after a bit more advice please. I am in the throes of finishing off my wiring (now that I have some idea of the P.O's adjuatments). The bit that I have a bit of a block on is the power from the battery.
My systen uses a single fuse and looking at the wiring diagram, this has a red/white wire on one side (to/from the rectifier) and a red wire on the other side (to/from the ignition switch). I cannot find any way that the battery is actually connected to the wiring loom.
I think that the wiring should be a red from the battery to one side of the fuse and both red/white and red wires to their respective places (like on the K2)
Am I right??
Also I have 4 litres of Silkolene super 4 semi synthetic 20/50 nmotorcycle oil for the engine. I guess this is OK (I know it recommends 10/40, but this will be used for the summer and changed).
Thanks for any help that can be offered.
559
« on: June 22, 2009, 01:26:15 PM »
Thanks again. I will go that route. Everything was liberally coated with oil during the rebuild and the top end oiled before fitting the cam cover.
I hope to be in a position to start the beast soon, just have to repair the coils, (leads look dodgy), sort out the wiring as this has been adjusted (with different coloured wires been added).
Regards
Seamus
560
« on: June 20, 2009, 06:46:47 PM »
Thanks Bryan, appreciate the advice. I have a few more days to go beforeI get that far, and will have to get the oil first.
Seamus
561
« on: June 20, 2009, 10:13:26 AM »
Hi All,
Any tips for getting the oil round a rebuilt engine? I guess its a case of just turning it over till the oil light goes out before starting. I also imagine that this would be too big a load on the starter, so kick start is the way to go.
Is it worth removing an oil gallery plug to get this going?
As usual, advice gratefully received
Seamus
562
« on: June 09, 2009, 11:36:45 PM »
May not help. but I have a receipt from the PO of my K1. Guages fully restored by Bucks Vintage Guage Restoration in Northridge USA, but at a fee of $851 including shipping  They do look great
563
« on: June 09, 2009, 11:29:47 PM »
When rebuilding a Bonneville last year, I had the original Dunlop rims replated, at a cost of
564
« on: June 05, 2009, 12:16:01 PM »
Too late for that. First two already sold and still need funds.
Anyone want to but a good second hand cat??
565
« on: June 04, 2009, 10:05:15 PM »
Thanks for the offer Bryan. I have ordered a new set of valves from that nice Mr Silver and will install them ASAP. Most of the parts are with me now, just waiting for the engine bolts to return from being re plated, then I am away (I hope)
Thanks again
Seamus
566
« on: June 04, 2009, 08:35:16 AM »
It seems that chain breakage was quite common on the early 750's Many of them resulted in a hole in the back of the gearbox, so I would'nt be surprised if there was some scaring in this area. (Mine had a 2 inch square hole hiding under JB weld).
I believe that O ring chains are fine as long as you have the correct width (530). The chain will be a bit wider than standard as it has O rings between the side plates. Also you will probably have a soft link in place of a split link for completing the chain.
Cheers
Seamus
567
« on: May 31, 2009, 03:51:26 PM »
Hoi ALl
Can anyone tell me the standard size of inlet and exhaust valves for a K1? Mine has high comp pistons and been opened out to 810cc. Not sure what else has been done. I have a few bent inlet and exhauct valves and before I replace them,I just want to make sure that they are standard before I replace them.
Anyone got any valve that they want to part with??
Many thanks
Seamus.
569
« on: May 22, 2009, 11:14:12 PM »
Looks like it depends on how creative you are. Can you repair the original by making a replacement section and welding it in place?
570
« on: May 20, 2009, 09:06:09 PM »
Pain in the butt that one. Does the sticky cable feel free off the bike? Could it be over adjusted?
Is it possible that it is the grip itself, with some sort of sticking point for the cable where it goes through the clamp or guide?
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