Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - djb

Pages: [1] 2
1
Project Board / Re: Lets build a SOHC for less than a grand
« on: March 14, 2021, 02:49:47 PM »
Looks awesome. I like the styling...

2
Misc / Open / Re: Is a 400/four too small for a 6ft 1in bloke?
« on: March 08, 2021, 04:39:17 PM »
At 5' 5" it's always annoyed me that a 400/4 is considered a womans bike. Shame on you. It's a riders bike that appreciates a very singular build, whether male or female...

3
CB350/400 / Re: The camchain tensioner screw/bolt
« on: February 03, 2021, 05:49:57 PM »
My understanding is that screwing it in does not increase tension. It only locks the adjustment made by the internal horseshoe/ spring arrangement. If the horseshoe is seized or spring worn, tightening this further will only bugger up the thread.

4
Finally found front mudguard stay (both actually) on ebay for £15.00. Thanks for all the help...

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]


5
SOHC Singles & Twins / Re: CJ250T
« on: January 20, 2021, 04:34:44 PM »
Looks extremely good. I think everyone on this forum will understand and appreciate the amount of work (and cash!) that's gone into that restoration.

6
> Thinking time is the most important part of a restoration...I can spend 6 weeks thinking
> about doing something, that in the end turns out to be less than a 5 minute job

snap!

7
That would be great - thanks!!!

8
CB350/400 / Re: Hello- is there any body out there?
« on: January 14, 2021, 09:36:09 AM »
Hi Ted

You raise a good point regarding seals.

Normally in a cold garage you probably would want air from the outside circulating to prevent the build up of damp / mould etc. When running a dehumidifier, you definitely want a closed system i.e. no leaks else you end up trying to dehumidify the outside world, which would be expensive ;-)  I wouldn't get hung up about opening doors but clearly a side door would be better than an up and over door in terms of letting in damp air from outside. The main thing is when the dehumidifier is running, your garage is sealed.

In reality this can be a challenge. I have a side door and roller shutters on the main door.  I don't have windows. The original side door was crap and didn't fit at all properly. I got a steel door from Lathams online (I have no affiliation with them). Best thing I could have done. Easy to fit (you will need a mate to help handle it) but it's sealed all around the door (like a uPVC door but much, much cheaper).  It's also much more secure.  The roller door has brushes but it does let air in, but overall I am happy with the set-up I have. 

Dave

9
CB350/400 / Re: Hello- is there any body out there?
« on: January 13, 2021, 11:57:22 AM »
I bought a desiccant dehumidifier (MEACO) some time ago and it's fantastic.  Desiccant dehumidifiers are more expensive to run than compressor based dehumidifiers but desiccants have the advantage they can work down to about 1 degree.  They also have the benefit of heating the garage up very slightly (because it uses a heater element).

Not only does it keep the garage dry it makes it much nicer to work in (even when it's quite cold) - the air is not damp. None of my tools / bike parts rust in the winter now! It does not run all the time - once the target humidity is reached it shuts down. I have a hose connected to the outside world so I do not even have to empty the built in collector - set and forget!

My garage is not insulated, so it's quite expensive to run (about £15.00 PM) on its lower setting. But honestly, it really has made such a massive difference I do not mind paying that at all...

Dave

10
CB350/400 / Re: Clutch Locking Washer - Cannot Align
« on: December 28, 2020, 08:19:37 PM »
Thanks Julie, I will try that...

11
CB350/400 / Clutch Locking Washer - Cannot Align
« on: December 28, 2020, 05:45:00 PM »
I've just replaced the plates on my clutch. Everything was going great until I tightened the clutch centre castle nut. The torque settings I understand should be in the range 29 lb ft to 32.6 lb ft (CB400F).

However, I am unable to get any of the locking washer "tangs" to align. If I start at 29 lb ft and increase the torque in increments to 32.6 lb ft, non of the tangs will align.

I can get a tang to align at 26 lb ft and another at around 35 lb ft.

When I stripped the clutch down, the tangs were not aligned. The PO had just bent a tang upwards with half in the recess and half outside! So it appears they had set at a recommended torque setting and just bashed the hell out of a tang for a partial lock.

So my questions:

(1) are my torque settings correct for a CB400F (29 lb ft to 32.6 lb ft)?
(2) if correct, any ideas why I cannot get a single tang to align between 29 lb ft and 32.6 lb ft?
(3) can I (should I) use a lower (26 lb ft) or higher (35 lb ft) to facilitate alignment

Thanks

Dave

12
Announcements / Re: Merry Christmas and a Happy 2021
« on: December 23, 2020, 03:02:55 PM »
Best wishes to all...

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

13
CB350/400 / Re: Sand, Sand, Sand and Polish...
« on: December 20, 2020, 02:24:44 PM »
> Give us a clue on the grades of paper used... the tools... the time.

I originally bought 220, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 and 2500 grades of wet and dry to get me going.  The first item I tackled was the crankcase cover. However, after stripping off the paint (using Synstryp) I could see the surface was pitted:

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

I needed to cut a little deeper so got some 80 and 120. I got 10 sheets of each grade. However, it is clear now you tend to spend more time / paper using the rougher grades to resurface. I didn't use any power tools as I was a little nervous about  damaging the alloy - maybe you could? But played it safe anyway. By the time you have finished with the 220 grade you should aim to have an unblemished surface (although it will look scratched!). I would say 600 onwards it starts looking quite sweet.

Use circular motions when you can. I didn't actually use water with my wet and dry - I left it dry after seeing a few videos on you tube. It worked for me but maybe other people have a different point of view. I didn't really spend too much time on 1000 and above. I wanted to surface to look really smooth but not super shiny.

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

In terms of time taken, I did it over a number of days. I think the longest session was about 3 hours. More than that and I started to lose the will to live - short 2 hour sessions worked really well for me. Altogether, it maybe took 8 to 10 hours (including stripping the paint) to finish the above. Most of that time was spent in the early stages (80, 120 and 220) and this is the hardest work. 

When you get to the later stages, you might see area that needs to be revisited (perhaps you have still a scratch from rougher grades or a blemish you want to take out). If you see such an area, you will need to start again moving from rough to fine. Just rubbing harder with 800 or 1000 will not do much at this point.

This is the first time I have done this and really pleased with the results. It's not perfect but looks very authentic and honest.  It will oxidise over time but it really should not take long to bring the surface back up using something like autosol.  In short, it shouldn't require any more attention than any other parts of the bike - like forks or bright work.

Hope that is of some help Simon...

Dave

14
CB350/400 / Sand, Sand, Sand and Polish...
« on: December 19, 2020, 02:33:59 PM »
Decided to carry out a few cosmetic jobs on my bike. Decided to remove rather badly applied paint from clutch, alternator and left crankcase cover.  Rather than re-paint, I've sanded and polished by hand and really pleased with the results. Not too shiny, which I quite like (plus I started to run out of elbow grease!).

Here is before and after clutch cover:

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Previous owner has omitted a few gaskets, washers and also had a random sized selection of allen screws which I am replacing with stainless JIS screws. I'm not a bike purist by any stretch of the imagination but I do like the look of the JIS screws:

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Mind you, I am wondering what other items have been "omitted" or "overlooked" by the PO!

Dave

15
New Member Introductions / Re: Hello from North Yorkshire...
« on: December 19, 2020, 09:44:37 AM »
Hi Nigel

I'm originally from Darlington so know the Northallerton area pretty well (a mate of mine used to live in Brompton). Lived in Saltburn for about 20 years now. You are right, some great roads...

Dave

Pages: [1] 2
SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal