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Messages - ashewan
1
« on: July 20, 2014, 04:28:39 PM »
Hi,
Well I never thought I'd get 'flamed' (or is that 'trolled') just 'cause I happen to mention 'amps' (shock, horror). As yous all know (or bloody well should at your age) there's a man called Mr Ohm. Mr Ohm he say 'No voltage, no current. No current, no voltage' or words to that effect!
So let's just say for the sake of argument you wanted to know the current (IN AMPS) drawn when you use the electric starter..........
And no 'I use the kick start' doesn't count;-).
Andrew
2
« on: July 17, 2014, 05:32:16 PM »
Hi,
Got no answer about using a RR24 for reg/rec so nobody has used one or I've been sent to Coventry? Anyway the mail was about my dodgy charging circuit so I got a bit more scientific - I think.
Put a 75mV 75A shunt connecting battery +ve terminal to loom +ve cable. Read -3.4A (-3.4mV on digi meter) [12.11V] with just ignition on. At 1k rpm, -5A [12.03V] and only started going positive at 3.5k and showing 2.2A [12.37V] at 6k.
So sounds like a lotta leakage or something somewhere and it reads nothing like the shop manual charging characteristics (page 106 in my downloaded pdf). But perhaps that is an ideal circuit.
I have also checked the various values; field/stator coil resistance/connectivity etc as per manual and they seem to be within spec, apart from what looks like one funny continuity direction reading on the rectifier bridge;-)
Could go with a new reg/rec but perhaps I need to do more - any suggestions; like new loom? Add relays; Or whatever.
Thanks
Andrew
3
« on: July 02, 2014, 09:48:07 AM »
Hi,
Anybody using the RR24 for their 400? I'm going to do an overhaul of the whole charging circuit, it just isn't charging right and I was thinking to eliminate the regulator by using the RR24.
Thanks
Andrew
4
« on: June 11, 2014, 04:55:56 PM »
Thanks Bryan,
I'll check that out.
5
« on: June 11, 2014, 01:59:15 PM »
Hi,
Well that didn't take long after my mea culpa...'sorry for the delay'.
The second key set from DS has failed. The plastic cap at the bottom has come loose. It happened on the first one I got from DS for the 400 (part # DFBAA422017P), I sent it back they replaced it with the one which has again failed.
So either the part is crap or I'm doing something wrong!.
Any ideas
Thanks
Andrew
6
« on: June 09, 2014, 06:19:09 PM »
Hi,
Been a long time since I posted; after xmas I was near to getting the bike finished but the dear lady and myself decided to take off in the motorhome and....
Anyway, bike has now past MOT and is taxed.
Looks a bit of a mess but mechanically its sound but funnily enough I seem to have lost interest!!! Is this pms?
Perhaps its the idea of all work now needed, not the big stuff but all the fiddly little stuff to make it look right.
Going to add hondaman's 'semi' electronic ignition see if that will motivate me.
Andrew
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7
« on: February 01, 2014, 11:26:20 AM »
Hi,
I've only put the rear strut on my front mudguard, although the mudguard is drilled for the front strut as well.
Its also drilled to take the vertical style front number plate which might explain the need to add the extra bracing at the front.
8
« on: August 23, 2013, 06:15:29 PM »
Tom,
Its an easy out!
Andrew
9
« on: August 23, 2013, 01:50:47 PM »
HI,
Had the same problem on my 75 400/4 rebuild. Tacking a nut onto it is a good idea if you have the gear.
I didn't but I did have a set of screw extractors and got the bolt out that way.
Andrew
10
« on: July 31, 2013, 07:36:02 PM »
The diagram indicates Light Green going to a dot inside the broken line and I have no idea what that means. Also, the only spare wire from the loom that I have is a very pale mint green colour. I presume that the green wire with the ring connector is to earth? I'm not far off finishing the bike now so help with these last puzzlers is greatly appreciated! Ta, Mick. [/quote] HI Broken line outline indicates the loom and LG coming from horn should connect to LG (or similar in your case  in the 'big rubber thing' left side front frame; that eventually ends up at the horn button. For the other horn terminal then in my case I took a black wire with connector to 'your' green wire with ring and connector and bolted the ring under one of the bolts holding the horn; making sure there was a good earth to the frame. Works for me. Andrew
11
« on: April 27, 2013, 10:42:26 AM »
Hi,
4 fotos of the wiring on my machine (1975 restore) - I used the loom that was there plus a look at the wiring diagram. The green wires end up 'spaded' onto the indicators stalks.
Whether this is right I don't know but it all works just fine.
Andrew
12
« on: April 27, 2013, 07:02:47 AM »
In the end I used a lot of rubber grease in the seal channel; that held the o ring in place and then screwed up the bowl. This morning I took off the bowl, wiped away the excess grease and the o ring has stayed in place!
Cheers
Andrew
Update: Did the above on the remaining carbs and has worked a treat.
13
« on: April 26, 2013, 04:53:00 PM »
Mick,
Yes I'm using the round seal and thanks for the idea of the glue. Was unsure about that but since you have used it with no adverse effects on the seal? then I will too.
Andrew
14
« on: April 26, 2013, 02:50:41 PM »
Hi, Somewhat trivial question;-) But you never know the depth of knowledge/science/tribal knowledge involved in the answer (if there is one;-)  I could spend the next few minutes/hours/days? manoeuvring a new float bowl seal into place, such that it stays there, prior to screwing bowl to carburettor (1975 400 four carb set). Or.. I could ask and presumably get responses telling me to...do something rude to myself. But perhaps there really is a 'neat' way of doing this. Cheers Andrew
15
« on: February 18, 2013, 04:30:01 PM »
Hi, I have sometimes found the US site to be very useful ( http://forums.sohc4.net/) In the case of the switch you might like to check this out even though you have now solved it. Single Over-Head Cam 4 Forums » Tech Forums » Proven Tricks & Tips / How To's - NOT for Questions » Electrical (Moderator: Gordon) » Topic: Assembly and Discussion of the Right-hand Switch (a rebuilder's guide) It is very American.... Andrew
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