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Messages - AshimotoK0
1
« on: Today at 06:45:51 PM »
On one of Allen Millyard’s videos on YouTube, he put carb bodies in a bucket of water mixed with alloy wheel cleaner.
Left them in for a few minutes until the water stopped fizzing and they came out pretty good.
Hope it's not the alloy wheel cleaner that used hydrofluoric acid ... really nasty stuff that. I have 5l of it that somebody gave me but always chicken out of using it.
2
« on: March 27, 2024, 09:19:30 PM »
That regulator is confusing I know. On the Honda system it's a 3 wire unit with a sense to the battery voltage but on the Kwak one it's just a connection between ground and the AC output.
I have illustrated the Kwak diagram . You need to connect the Yellow/Green wire to YELLOW on your Honda and thde black to ground (battery negative).
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3
« on: March 27, 2024, 03:33:56 PM »
Sorry Mo ... not sure what you need from me ... it sounds like you have the wiring details pretty much sussed out if you are wiring directly and not going through the bikes main loom ? Or am I missing something?
4
« on: March 27, 2024, 03:31:58 PM »
Tiddler S90, S65, YAS1, PC50 or if deep pockets CB92
I can recommend a YAS1,
had one from new, Truly magical to ride, Build quality not as good as Honda
Allen Millyard has a lovely YAS1 he rides around picking his parts up.
5
« on: March 27, 2024, 03:29:07 PM »
I have owned a CB350K since 1985 and done a lot of miles, including, rather insanely, touring in France. Get as low a mileage as you can, clean the centrifugal oil filter all the time, change the oil very often. The biggest problem I have experienced is with crankshafts, sadly, they cannot be rebuilt, the big ends go and then it is hard to find good second hand ones. I'm on my third crank now, although I only ride it gently these days and then not very often. They also get hot and bothered in heavy traffic and the clutch starts to drag, and the CV carb sliders stick causing them to be sluggish on one cylinder. I got round this problem by fitting slide carbs and now it runs better than it ever has, much more responsive. (fans of originality please ignore that comment )
They are a fun little bike, but they are small and I always wished Honda had made a 650 version.
My friend Graham Curtis rebuilds Honda pressed together cranks inc. CB250/350K. He rebuilt my CB450K0, CB72 & S90 crankshafts.
6
« on: March 27, 2024, 10:13:27 AM »
Personally I prefer the looks of the K0 and K2 UK bikes but never sold here in 350 (well actually 325cc) versions only 250's. CB350 only sold here at K4 upgrade. CB350G not G5 not sold here but basically a K4 with CB350F disc brake front end. Also sold as B4 model in Europe ( Germany etc)
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« on: March 27, 2024, 06:40:13 AM »
I recently bought some from Planet Silicone on eBay in nitrile rubber. Pretty sure the OD is slightly larger than the Honda original though (for 400F)
8
« on: March 27, 2024, 06:38:28 AM »
Tiddler S90, S65, YAS1, PC50 or if deep pockets CB92
10
« on: March 25, 2024, 07:21:02 AM »
I would definitely try to get an import (or an import that has been restored) with the lowest possible original mileage otherwise you are in a world of pain, parts hunting and expense if the top end is shot ( which lots are). You probably know this already but the cam runs directly in the head/cam cover and the cam and rockers are notorious for some of the most horrendous damage you will see on any Honda from the 1970's. The cam chain tensioner was modified (recall), so a later bike is desirable or check that the tensioner has been upgraded. The whole situation was worsened by having no removable cover to clean out the centrifgal oil filter. You had to remove the exhaust and clutch cover etc to gain access ... so many owners didn't bother.
These are before and after pics of a 2k mile bike I pulled out of a delapidated shed ( been there 35 years+) and sold to a guy in the NE who did a cracking job on it's resto. Cost him quite a bit to restore but the engine was perfect though. I always thought they looked a really pretty looking bike and since I sold that one the popularity (and price) has rocketed with time.
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11
« on: March 24, 2024, 07:41:03 PM »
Not sure on the exact sizes of the original rubber sleeving but this may be a starting point .. they do many other sizes. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285006013277
12
« on: March 23, 2024, 10:31:48 PM »
I can't help but wonder how a cardboard box could support a heavy cargo like a motorcycle.
It also had a wooden framework like this. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
13
« on: March 23, 2024, 06:37:42 PM »
You did well there Ian as I have not had the same luck with them. But there again one of the few places that will rechrome a used exhaust.
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« on: March 23, 2024, 04:17:56 PM »
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« on: March 22, 2024, 01:26:09 PM »
the red lead is the one from the rectifier to the battery which is being held on by the black probe, and the other black from the Rectifier is to the - side of the battery the starter wire as we said is Not connected as use kickstart only.....
i wish I Know more Ash about Electrics
oh don`t forget I have the wires from the stator going to the Rectifier so Not going thought the loom
You definitely need to connect the red lead from the rectifier to the red probe from the meter and only have the black lead connected to the battery. Idea is to measure current in to or out of battery.
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