Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB500/550 => Topic started by: Brian Cairns on January 21, 2024, 03:32:11 PM
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I have got my self confused just wondering can you please check the picture and my identification oof carb parts:
1. air mixture screw (1 1/2 turns out)
2. Slow jet/pilot jet ????
3.main jet & emulsion tube
If identifications are correct, how do I remove slow jet, as I want to check sizes. Should be 42.
I checked main jet sizes, one was 98 and the other 3 were 90's. Obviously should all be same size.
Also what position should jet needle be? I am getting conflicting information on the web . Some say the needle can't be adjusted on the PD46C carb and some say they can?
Thanks in advance
Brian
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Identification is spot on. Take the mixture/air screws out and make sure they are intact. IIRC they have a really fine needle on the end of them, if you screwed them in too tight it would shear off in the carb body, there is also a spring a washer and a really small oring fitted on it. Spring on first, washer to stop the spring cutting into the oring, then the oring. You may need to fish it out of the hole.
The slow jet looks to be a push in fit, been many many years since I mucked with a set of those carbs so can’t say for sure how it comes out.
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Identification is spot on. Take the mixture/air screws out and make sure they are intact. IIRC they have a really fine needle on the end of them, if you screwed them in too tight it would shear off in the carb body, there is also a spring a washer and a really small oring fitted on it. Spring on first, washer to stop the spring cutting into the oring, then the oring. You may need to fish it out of the hole.
The slow jet looks to be a push in fit, been many many years since I mucked with a set of those carbs so can’t say for sure how it comes out.
Brilliant! thanks so much.
Brian
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Identification is spot on. Take the mixture/air screws out and make sure they are intact. IIRC they have a really fine needle on the end of them, if you screwed them in too tight it would shear off in the carb body, there is also a spring a washer and a really small oring fitted on it. Spring on first, washer to stop the spring cutting into the oring, then the oring. You may need to fish it out of the hole.
The slow jet looks to be a push in fit, been many many years since I mucked with a set of those carbs so can’t say for sure how it comes out.
Brilliant! thanks so much.
I discovered that the slow jets are correct size ( 42) . They are push in and apparently designed never to come out! I won't mess with them.
I looked at airscrews , no washer or spring in any of them. Hopefully when i redo carbs the bike will run a lot better. The previous owner seems to made a hash of them. Bike hard to start and can't get over 65 mph......
Brian
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The slow jets DO need to come out as bothe the jets and passAgeways block for a passtime, grip firmly with vicegrips and pull and twist at same time.
Refit with light tap from soft hammer.
EDIT
You can get replacements from Sirius Consolodated in canada along with the O rings and washers for the mixture screws but their website is a nightmare to navigate
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The slow jets DO need to come out as bothe the jets and passAgeways block for a passtime, grip firmly with vicegrips and pull and twist at same time.
Refit with light tap from soft hammer.
EDIT
You can get replacements from Sirius Consolodated in canada along with the O rings and washers for the mixture screws but their website is a nightmare to navigate
Ok will give it a go.
Cheers
Brian
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I pulled the ones out of my PD50’s by heating carb body with a hot air gun. Wrapped a pice of rubber tube around the jet and it pulled out pretty easy.
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I pulled the ones out of my PD50’s by heating carb body with a hot air gun. Wrapped a pice of rubber tube around the jet and it pulled out pretty easy.
Cheers
Will try that
Thanks'
Brian
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A few pics that may help.
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I did think you pulled them out TBH BUT I wasn't about to say grip them with pliers etc as it sounded a little brutal to me and likely to mark the outer part.
Glad to see my memory was right about the air screws, exactly as I remembered them, not bad for 40 odd years ago.
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Probably not worthwhile just for a single job, but these Kniipex twingrip pliers have a "bore" in the nose that's particularly effective in gripping a cylinder https://www.amazon.co.uk/KNIPEX-82-01-200-atramentized/dp/B09FPZPY96/ref=asc_df_B09FPZPY96/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=641638718575&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6235607503535841976&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045915&hvtargid=pla-1640846664898&psc=1&mcid=e02a7d1495603634ba0636b3393dbad5&th=1&psc=1
Obviously a limited use here but very effective. Usually when you turn to get the pliers out something has failed, stuck or broken, these really do grip like hell to avoid slipping and seem a good addition to a toolkit.
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Neat looking pliers.
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A few pics that may help.
Great !
Thanks
Brian
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I did think you pulled them out TBH BUT I wasn't about to say grip them with pliers etc as it sounded a little brutal to me and likely to mark the outer part.
Glad to see my memory was right about the air screws, exactly as I remembered them, not bad for 40 odd years ago.
Cheers
Brian
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Probably not worthwhile just for a single job, but these Kniipex twingrip pliers have a "bore" in the nose that's particularly effective in gripping a cylinder https://www.amazon.co.uk/KNIPEX-82-01-200-atramentized/dp/B09FPZPY96/ref=asc_df_B09FPZPY96/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=641638718575&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6235607503535841976&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045915&hvtargid=pla-1640846664898&psc=1&mcid=e02a7d1495603634ba0636b3393dbad5&th=1&psc=1
Obviously a limited use here but very effective. Usually when you turn to get the pliers out something has failed, stuck or broken, these really do grip like hell to avoid slipping and seem a good addition to a toolkit.
Cheers
Brian
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Personally I would have some wood or leather inbetween the jaws of the pliers, when used on vulnerable materials like brass.
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I think the pliers are plasic coated looking at the description on Amazon.
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Personally I would have some wood or leather inbetween the jaws of the pliers, when used on vulnerable materials like brass.
Cheers
Brian
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I think the pliers are plasic coated looking at the description on Amazon.
Just ordered the pliers from amazon.
Cheers
B
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I pulled the ones out of my PD50’s by heating carb body with a hot air gun. Wrapped a pice of rubber tube around the jet and it pulled out pretty easy.
I thought this was a good start point, and obviously avoids potential damage.
Failing that though, a good mechanical grip, if they are very resistant, will be of value to get them moving.
Those knipex twingrip are a good tool to have anyway if you've something that's already been compromised. My son bought my pair recently for a birthday present as I'd been looking at them in a tool shop. Positively surprised at just how good they grip in comparison to some of my old and quite well used tools. Quite a neat size to carry in an emergency tool pack as contingency as they can be set to open quite wide in accommodation of different components.
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I spent some time years ago as an optical tech for Boots and whilst there I used all rhe myriad of tools they have for adjusting, making and repairing spec fr3ames. All or most of the 'plier type' tools all had replacable nylon jaws and suited all sorts of jobs the we now undertake for carb twiddling and faffing about with these old bikes. Reading this just jogged my memory so it might be worth looking in brochures for optical supplies and technical support0 for 'that special tool' that you can never find....maybe. If I remember rightly, to replace sets wasnt dear and I found that a bit surprising in the optics trade.
Maybe worth a google search....?.