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Messages - McCabe-Thiele (Ted)
1
« on: May 07, 2024, 10:48:16 PM »
My chain was replaced and was ittle used when I purchased the 500 from Bryan.
I have removed the light surface rust, after cleaning I have sprayed it with some chain lubricant that I have on my shelf it's a black coloured foam type grease called "IZUMI" Racing Japan that was given to me.
I have read online about a product called Putoline Chain Wax - not cheap but it sounds a neat idea to heat it up so the lubricant fully penetrates the rollers etc.
What do members here recommend as a good lubricant?
2
« on: May 07, 2024, 06:59:30 PM »
I was quite pleased with my Flap Wheel that I bought from Scewfix - trouble is it will not fit in the gap between the hub brake lining and the center of the hub - I'm sure it will come in handy in the future!
Undetered I decided to use a pair of those dark green plastic wheels that Ken uses for polishing work. A steady five minutes with them in my Dremell, the brake liner cleaned up really nicely. Hub fitted back in the wheel, nipped up, a couple of high point rub marks on the brake lining near the middle towards the edge of one brake shoe. Hub removed some sand paper on the high points, Repeated twice - all is now as it should be - wheel rotates freely at last!
I've lost count of how many times the back wheel has been removed and re-fitted over the last two days - it was worth perservering to get it right.
Thanks for the tips from those who replied to this post.
Thank goodness for my bike ramp it made it all so much easier - time for a Beer reward!
3
« on: May 07, 2024, 12:51:40 PM »
I have filed down the shoes to enable a washer to be fitted under the split pin.
On closer examination of the brake shoes alloy plate there were a couple of what looked like rub marks on the alloy shoes on the outer edges. This was just on the one shoe. I have done some very light filing of the edge it has reduced the binding substantially when the axel is tightened up.
I am collecting a flap wheel today as well - Bryan -who sells Vesrah brake shoes in the UK?
4
« on: May 07, 2024, 10:46:07 AM »
The brake binding is not present until I tighten the axle as I increase the tightness the binding starts.
To make sure it was not the bearings I removed the linings re-fitted the brake hub - all free.
The only thing that really changes when it is tightened up is the inside edges of the brake shoes are closer to the inside of the wheel. There is no sign of any lip on the liner.
Where the liner meets the wheel internals it looks visually good with no sign of any lip. It might be worth doing some very slight sanding on the inside edge of the brake shoes or even a light shamfer on the outer circumference/edge of the lining.
I did wonder if I could mark the outer edges with some yellow road chalk and see where it transfers to.
5
« on: May 06, 2024, 10:03:45 PM »
Thanks Bryan.
6
« on: May 06, 2024, 09:23:30 PM »
Thanks Bryan - a few minutes ago I took out the brake hub- removed the shoes - put it back into the wheel - torqued it up rotated freely - so it's just a very close fit - as it was when I first rode the bike.
The Shoes look like the DS ones they are marked SOK 283 .
Bryan I have never had a flap wheel so how are they sized can you post or PM me a link as to the size & grade I need please?
I assume they will fit a normal drill.
7
« on: May 06, 2024, 08:37:17 PM »
Petrol floats in Diesel so it will probably soon soot up the plugs then start to misfire.
Anecdotal Story
It was a long time ago but an lovely Irishman (Keith Dunne) I worked with used to put diesel in his petrol car to save money as in the 1960's it was cheaper- he drove a Standard Vanguard - it would smoke like the clappers and eventually it seized up.
8
« on: May 06, 2024, 06:40:21 PM »
Personally I would consider draining out the tank and start with new petrol - diesel is not good for the piston rings.
Not sure if the diesel will seperate out when standing or if the two hydrocarbons are compleltly miscible.
9
« on: May 06, 2024, 12:43:30 PM »
Good point I'm going to get the fixed bearing fully home as it was before. I'm thinking the right side will move back out a little but not as far out as it was.
I understand the fixed bearing principle - the lock ring seems to have two functions. Securing the fixed bearing and holding the drive hub fully home.
Update:- I removed the lock ring (again) and using a drift with a good sized lump hammer the left side bearing is fully home. The hammer strike changed tone as it butted up to the recess. Drive hub and lock ring fitted back and it's fully tightened with no gap visible between the ring & hub face. Visually the right side bearing has moved out slightly but nothing like it was.
I now have a slightly different issue that existed before I stripped down the bike - some light binding. The rear brake linings have a very slight bind. I had to file the brake shoe ends where they pivot as there was no room for the top washer only the split pin. The brake shoes also appear to be a tad wider than what feels right when you fit the brake hub it's a difficult wiggle.
There is no free play in the brake shoe system. A very slight amount of lever movement in either direction applys the brakes. It's diffucult to pin down but it feels as if the binding is more like the side of the brake linings touching the inside of the hub.
From previous posts it appears that the original brake linings are no longer available so it's a bit of a raffle to get the correct ones. My next move is to see if a chamfer on the inside edge of the curved shoe might improve things. I think but am not sure that the hub has had a new steel lining fitted in the past.
I'm going to remove the brake shoes and re-fit the hub to be 100% sure it's just the linings causing the bind.
10
« on: May 06, 2024, 09:18:23 AM »
Could be Dom, ill remove the brake hub and give it another thwack with the drift.
Update: The right hand bearing was not flush with the hub face - it did not want to knock in any further so I undid the lock ring on the left side and it's now flush with the face.
Now the lock ring is not fully against the drive hub so I guess I might need to tap the left side bearing a tad more from the left side.
Not sure if there should be a gap between the lock ring and the drive hub. Mine is probably about the thickness of a Junior hack saw blade between the lock ring and drive hub face .
11
« on: May 05, 2024, 08:20:32 PM »
I had a second wind this evening so with the rear wheel in position, no brake shoes binding, attached the brake anchor bar to the hub.
With the axle nut loose the wheel rotates freely, as I tighten up the axle nut the wheel is stiffer to turn so something must be amiss.
It will rotate by hand but with much more effort.
The axle shaft fits easily through the hubs etc no force needed.
The fixed bearing was fitted without issue with the small spacer and the long spacer in position
Right hand bearing knocked in easily.
Left & right spacers in the correct position.
I haven't as yet fully torqued the axle nut wtf is going on?
Is it possible that the right hand bearing is not full against the central long spacer so it might improve the situation at full tightness?
I can't seem to find a picture in the parts book for the fitting of the rear brake hub anchor parts or what way round the shouldered bolt should fit - is it with the split pin on the inside or facing out?
12
« on: May 05, 2024, 05:29:36 PM »
Nice photo of the Town Hall
Austria my birthplace.
13
« on: May 05, 2024, 12:11:38 PM »
14
« on: May 05, 2024, 12:02:08 PM »
I was told they were used to surpress radio interference back in the day.
15
« on: May 05, 2024, 11:44:36 AM »
I hold the view (probably wrongly) that cranks are not easy to bend when out of the engine.
I have always believed that a bent crank is generally associated with some sort of catastrophic engine failure such as a con rod tries to exit the block or casing.
Best of luck with finding the problem please keep us posted.
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