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Messages - Rickman Pete
1
« on: May 16, 2020, 09:30:30 AM »
Wasnt the original a stanley unit?
2
« on: May 11, 2020, 10:21:09 AM »
Anyone?  Bump
3
« on: May 08, 2020, 08:32:45 PM »
The slider and leg are z650 so they wont give you any clues unfortunately.
Ill have a look at then suzi stuff as kwaks been ruled out alreadythanks
4
« on: May 08, 2020, 01:27:42 PM »
36mm diameter z650 forks k207
Your right i believe the bottom one isn't. Top ones not off a z jason a kh has confirmed that but is identical to f1 except the bolts
5
« on: May 08, 2020, 11:28:09 AM »
This may help
Please note the similarity to the f1 yoke but not a through bolt with nut and yoke isn't machined to suggest it should be either.
Might be worth ignoring the light cluster as that may or may not be the right one for yoke as previously suggested on fb
Thanks nurse for the idea of the pic [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
6
« on: May 08, 2020, 12:13:59 AM »
** are not ate sorry
7
« on: May 08, 2020, 12:09:43 AM »
No 25. But that photo isnt of my set up as mine ate bolts and no nuts theyre threaded i to yoke only 40mm legnth
8
« on: May 07, 2020, 10:58:24 PM »
Leg clamp bolts
9
« on: May 07, 2020, 10:25:19 PM »
I got some from david silver spares. Left jets as was just cleaned. Just replaced all rubber bits.
10
« on: May 07, 2020, 10:18:42 PM »
The manual says m8? So does david silver parts list
11
« on: May 07, 2020, 09:46:03 PM »
Hi all
I have a weird issue
I have a f1 top yoke fitted to my rickman cr750.
The manual shows the bolt as m8 56mm
The ones i have which fit perfectly are m8 40mm
56mm will hang out miles
Is there another model or something I'm missing as i need to.replave these bolts as plating is wrecked
12
« on: September 08, 2019, 11:06:40 PM »
How would you recomend applying it. Warming wax. Warming frame or just rub it on n rub it in
13
« on: September 08, 2019, 10:57:52 PM »
That's a good idea with the beeswax method👍.
If you do decide to go the beeswax route contact your local beekeeping association (I'm a member of my local group at Ruislip & Pinner). At this time of year the hives have just had the honey removed from the frames and some wax is left as a residue from the extraction process. You'll need to thin it down a bit (heat it very gently in a pan to melt it) but once it's on it will last for ages. Unfortunately we sold all our beeswax to someone who makes and sells beeswax candles for Christmas!
Oh, and buy a jar of honey from your beekeeping association whilst you are there, you'll be amazed when you taste it 😊🍯.
Cheers
Dave
Will do thank you
14
« on: September 08, 2019, 10:56:29 PM »
Wax, easy to top up, won't de laminate and flake like lacquers etc. Blaksmiths use beeswax but a hefty use of under diluted wash and wax once a week kept a fair portion of my chrome intact for a decade of winter riding on my 500/4. It does need regular topping up.
Good advice. Thanks
15
« on: September 07, 2019, 09:53:21 PM »
Evening all
Anyone got any good solid advice for restoring a nickel frame and preventing further rust. I dont really want to have it renickeled unless i really have to as i want it to look its age with sensible patena but not tired. But it definitely needs to be sealed or something to prevent further issues
Thanks
Pete
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