Honda-SOHC

API SN/CF; ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4, JASO SG+
Approvals: Mercedes Benz approval 229.3; VW 502 00/505 00; Renault RN0700, RN0710. Meets the requirements of Fiat 955535-G2
Synthetic technology motor oil
Shell?s unique active cleansing technology actively locks away harmful performance-robbing deposits
Active clean-up helps to remove sludge left behind by inferior oils2
Excellent wear protection3 helps to extend engine life by protecting against wear, even in daily traffic conditions
Excellent resistance to degradation helps to maintain protection throughout the oil-drain interval
Multi-fuel capability - can be used for petrol, diesel and gas engines, and is also suitable for biodiesel and petrol/ethanol blends
With its unique cleansing technology, Shell Helix HX7 goes on cleansing and protecting to help keep your engine clean and running efficiently. Formulated with synthetic technology, Shell Helix HX7 makes use of both synthetic and mineral base stocks to achieve higher performance levels than can be formulated from mineral oils alone. It provides excellent resistance to degradation to help maintain protection throughout the oil-drain interval. It also helps to reduce evaporation to help provide low oil consumption.1 1 Based on NOACK volatility test and equipment manufacturers? requirements 2 Based on a severe sludge clean-up test 3 Based on Sequence IVA engine test carried out at an independent laboratory

Copied from their info sheet.  As normal with most of these descriptions it's going to do absolutely everything for you along with cleaning up everyone else's mess that's been made inside your engine!!! 

I wouldn't worry about the "semi/part synthetic " labelling as it's mostly marketing puff. It largely equates to sharing a shelf with something identifying as synthetic in all practical reality. There's a bigger story as to why oils are labelled as such without being what we'd normally understand as to what synthetic actually means.

Can't see it as a problem to use it,  seems a decent quality oil and seriously doubt you'd encounter any concerns.

Tube connect to Ace Café

Hyde Park Corner to Piccadilly Circus on Piccadilly line, then change to Bakerloo line to Stonebridge Park. Then about 5/10 mins walk to the Ace.

Should be about 40mins from Hyde Park,  generally Sunday has best prospect for bikes with their meeting schedule on Web site to see what's meeting there.

More rudimentary food and mugs of tea 

Well spotted Bryan,  I forgot about Greenwich Meantime line etc (GMT) and worth a walk round Greenwich in general.

If you are planning to travel around on public transport it's easiest to use an Oyster card which will allow you to use underground, bus etc at best cost.  It's capped as you use it daily to prevent it running up cost once you reach a certain level and all local users will have this.
Can buy from newsagent shops as well as stations but will cost £5 per card which is refundable if you return the card after use.  But you then have to add money to it for ticketing.  Sounds complex but it's easy. 
Can also use contactless bank cards to travel but it would attract currency costs I think. There are no paper tickets anymore and cash is not used for accessing transport other than loading onto a pass.
BEWARE you must contact into and out of underground stations to make sure you don't leave your journey open ended for cost.

It's very easy to use tube (underground train) or buses as even if you go the wrong way then just get off at the next stop and go back the other way.  Each stop is roughly 5min intervals so it doesn't matter if you get it wrong.

Web site is traffic for London "tfl.gov.uk" to give you official information and not a spurious site.

The Shard building we all think is a rip off here, crass vanity project that'll cost 60 to 80 £ for three of you to reach the viewing platform!

If you have an interest in Tudor history,  Hampton Court Palace,  summer residence of King Henry 8th is easily reached via train.  From central London Waterloo station you can get a train direct to Hampton Court,  which is about 500 mtrs from the palace.  We think its extraordinarily good to see, and only about 30mins train journey from central London.

 

Could be making one of those "slick fifty" adverts.

Great news,  well done.

It's always nice to hear something going again after assembly.

You can jury rig a bypass to supply the coils direct.

Just take a line from battery + straight to the coil's supply input to try it. Make sure you just wrap it round the battery terminal so that you can pull it off in an emergency to act as a safety device (classic vintage hot-wiring  ).

If successful,  then you are looking at ignition switch/kill switch route.

It's not unknown for ignition switch contacts to play up on these bikes and can give you a dead stop.

Good diagnosis so far.  The coils are paired so they run the outside two cylinders from one coil and the inside two from the other.

It would suggest first a look at 2/3 numbered points that are switching that coil.  If not working it will effectively leave the coil isolated. The wire that comes from the coil to the points is the earth connection,  this remains earthed by the points until they open.  As soon as they open the coil fires a spark at the two plugs. 

So you need to verify if you've got switching first before you can see if anything else has failed. Hold off on paying out money until you can trace the true fault.

It's worth checking the hardness of the fork first Matt.

Just run a metal file across non toleranced surface of a knackered fork to see if it'll cut it.  It's usually the gear's that are heat treated material for obvious reason, fork's in many gearbox applications are only bronze.

A healthy gearbox would not routinely "run" the forks under load generally.  The gear is not side loaded when driven on these straight cut boxes.

If they wear as discussed above,  touching diagonally opposite faces on the pads, gear component making a mark further up,  then it would suggest the fork is bent such that it's not presented to the gear slot perpendicular/true.

If that's the case,  then if the dogs aren't engaged fully they can try to spit themselves back out of gear. This is usually obvious as the damage on the dog's noses gives evidence.

The original gears in this thread look like that's happened, you can see it starts to round off the leading/driven edge of the dog as well, making it even harder to stay in gear when loaded.