This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - Sprocket
Pages: 1 ... 6 7 [8] 9 10
106
« on: December 27, 2018, 09:30:47 AM »
Superb work, thank you very much! 
107
« on: December 18, 2018, 10:24:51 AM »
Hi Sprocket,
I've stripped my Honda down over this year and took a picture or two.
I'm more than happy to send them all to you on a CD. They prove useful.
PM your address and i'll post.
That is a lovely offer I'd like to take you up on, but would you believe I don't have anywhere I can shove a CD now! I could reimburse you for a USB stick - but I appreciate the level of effort is an order of magnitude more and I'll accept a short "no." to the suggestion!
108
« on: December 17, 2018, 03:41:21 PM »
Thanks both, yes please, I'll take you up on the offer! My direct problem is that my wee little beastie has been in bits several times over her time on Earth and I think the last 'restoration' was done by someone with less mechanical sympathy than I appear to be displaying. Example, when I took the air filter box apart I carefully took pics so I knew which bolts came from where. When I put it back together, I worked out that the short bolts were in the long holes and vice versa. So knowing where things 'should' be is kind of necessary at this stage. The Haynes book is sometimes good, the odd unexpected page where I can see the bit in the background is useful. But to have a proper colour zoomable pic would be fantastic. 
109
« on: December 17, 2018, 11:14:00 AM »
Bet this post gets a few views. I'm after nudes. The bikes, people, the bikes!! In putting bits back on my bike I've realised there are very few pics around that show where stuff is supposed to go. Particularly interested in things like the wiring loom, bracket orientation, hoses and tubes etc.
Could someone point me at a (SFW) location for pics of a CB400F without the tank, seat and side panels on please?
110
« on: December 14, 2018, 08:11:20 AM »
Well I dare say the key must still meet some of the criteria originally set for it, but I don't think any Honda engineers would have designed a 43 year lifespan into any part of the bike, let alone the most used / abused part!
111
« on: December 13, 2018, 03:27:59 PM »
So, the issue with being able to remove the key while the ignition is 'on', is down to the key being worn. I got my replacement in the post today and it operates exactly as it should.
112
« on: December 12, 2018, 10:02:42 AM »
Thanks for the offer, but I've found a NOS key in the states for the one I have here. I'm hoping it's a worn key that's causing the issue where it can come out while the bike is 'on' but I'm really keen to retain as much as I possibly can from the pile of parts bike!
113
« on: December 12, 2018, 09:01:38 AM »
So I'm up to the point where I want to put my replacement (Japanese sourced used and very good condition) loom on to the frame. And now I'm noticing all kinds of horrendous bodges, among the general clean and tidying.
The fuse box has no lid and has been chock blocked. I was about to use the connector from the rectifier when I thought it would be far, far less bother to just get a replacement.
The ignition switch works with the one extremely worn key, but as you can see it's not in great nick. After disassembly and reassembly it's much better, but I can still take the key out when it's in the 'ON' position. Anyone know what's up with that?
114
« on: November 28, 2018, 09:17:38 AM »
Not a massive update, but I've had the front wheel off, painted the spokes individually with Chrome paint, and refurbished the disc. Also put the correct grub screw in the speedo drive cable hole, and put a new pinch bolt in the rear brake lever.
Next task is the abhorrence that is the brake caliper. There was a ton of gungy brake fluid all round the pad, to the extent I couldn't pull the pad out. Had to fill up the reservoir and attach the lever to the bar, and pump it for about 10 mins to get it to push it out. The piston has got loads of dents and rusty spots but I think the caliper might be salvageable.
115
« on: November 21, 2018, 04:42:13 PM »
Done!
116
« on: November 21, 2018, 08:53:29 AM »
So as of last evening, this is where I'm up to. It actually rolls! I still need to do some refurb on the wheels but my primary plan is to make it an actual motorcycle first then work my way through and pretty things up. Dynasurf in Sandbach did my fork rechroming and were pretty good. Finish is very smooth. They charged £25 to chrome and polish the fork caps which was a little more than I was expecting. And of all the stupid things I could possibly do, happily rolling it off the main stand without an exhaust attached has resulted in some extreme verbal flagellation and readjustment of the once pristine powder coat on the stand and the swinger.  Nail polish will hopefully fix.
117
« on: November 19, 2018, 03:26:35 PM »
Excellent, thanks guys!
118
« on: November 19, 2018, 09:52:30 AM »
So, any idea which shoulder faces the wind then?
119
« on: November 19, 2018, 08:38:11 AM »
Julie, the gap in the fork clamp is supposed to be at the back not the front So, interesting find number #3856433/23b. The fork end clamp pieces are asymmetrical. There's about a 2mm difference between the shoulders. If the gap is supposed to be on the rearmost stud, does it follow that the shorter shoulder should also be on the rearmost stud?
120
« on: October 25, 2018, 11:31:13 AM »
IMHO take the carbs off before running it, and clean them out individually. Rusty gunge will form inside and even if you can get the bike running you risk sucking the gunge into the engine and potentially damaging it or at least making it wear more. If the carb rubbers are hard, warm them up with a hairdrier for a few minutes before taking them off. Interesting about the Antares red / early swingarm. Not seen that configuration before. Would be good to get some shots of the whole bike too, I can only see closeup shots. Looks in very good condition though, lovely job
Pages: 1 ... 6 7 [8] 9 10
|
Show Posts