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Messages - Sprocket
16
« on: September 24, 2019, 09:32:02 AM »
I had exactly the same issue at the weekend! Same kit, same fit. I followed the instructions in the kit and measured the stack height of the bottom race. If you have a thinner washer in there it will definitely bind at the bottom of the head tube - so that's not the answer.
I thought about not using the bearing seal, then not using the washer that sits above it, then getting a thinner c-spanner nut.
Eventually settled on using the original c-spanner nut with the shroud ground off, upside down, directly onto the kit seal. It's not ideal, but I'd estimate there is a thread in the entire nut. Certainly enough to properly torque it down.
I've not completely reassembled yet (got the wiring in, just need to put the brake, mudguard and wheel back) and then I'll follow the Haynes procedure to adjust the tension on the head bearing.
17
« on: September 03, 2019, 08:45:53 PM »
I have just added you on to his page Diego
Ah, think that's the problem, sharing settings on that video aren't 'public'. 
18
« on: September 03, 2019, 11:48:54 AM »
Can't see vid, error message from Faceache. 
19
« on: September 03, 2019, 11:47:33 AM »
The light flatters it! 
20
« on: September 03, 2019, 08:21:51 AM »
Er, not guilty m'lud! I haven't got the same name on that forum, I presumed someone else already had it. And I'm interested now, but can't see the forum - it's been up and down for a while. 
21
« on: September 02, 2019, 11:44:36 AM »
Well, I think this project has reached a significant milestone, in that I've been carried 85 miles under it's own power now!
I had the clutch out on Saturday to look at why it was slipping about 5k, seems the basket fingers were pretty well scalloped so I filed them flat and cross hatched the steel clutch plates. Fresh oil back in, and it's like night and day, proper strong clutch action.
Further running in about 50 miles tootling round taking the revs up to about 5-6k, mixture of hard work and varied speeds - all seems good so far!
Had a long chat with a farmer coming out of his gate who stopped and told me it was a really nice job. That perked me up a bit too, cos I think it looks a bit rough!
22
« on: August 22, 2019, 08:02:00 AM »
Not sure if this will be helpful or not, but I measured the distance from the lowest side of the front of the tunnel on #4 to the mating face.
23
« on: August 21, 2019, 09:45:40 AM »
I remember digging the ones out of my head, they were difficult to identify initially. Definitely agree with Julie; if it's running without noticeable leaks, leave it. Next time you have to take the exhausts off, have a look with a dental pick. When I get home I'll measure the depth of the tunnel properly so you can see how far in it goes, perhaps if you compare measurements you could get a better idea of if there's some in there or not. Perhaps a good photo would help? I sometimes take pics with my phone and zoom in, while I'm sat in front of the bloody thing! 
24
« on: August 20, 2019, 10:41:12 PM »
Ok cool, have measured and ordered something more appropriate, cheers!
25
« on: August 20, 2019, 09:39:41 PM »
Hi - seems I'm spamming the place at the mo, sorry etc...
The gaskets I got with the head gasket set from DS were a bit on the large side, in diameter. When I cleaned the head up I didn't spend a massive amount of time with a dremel on the inside of the tunnel section, so the walls were a bit rough, and I put the poor fit down to that. I put the gaskets in as best I could and fitted the exhaust. I couldn't get the finned collar tight up to the head either, best I could do without feeling like I was going to pull a stud out was to get about 4mm thread showing in front of the nuts (and spring washers). That right? or am I being too soft?
Because the engine was making a ticking noise I suspected a leak on #3 or #4 and no amount of 'just nipping up' was making me feel like it would help, I decided to take the exhaust back off and look. I'm reasonably confident the gasket for #3 was leaking a bit because it wasn't squashed as well as the others.
I've a replacement (not Honda) set now that appear to be a little thicker but the same diameter (39.83mm).
I got the dremel out with the sandpaper barrel and have thoroughly cleaned the insides of the tunnel section for #3 and #4, but these gaskets still don't just butt up to the head. I can press them so far with fingers before they start to want to deform - maybe 8-10mm or so away.
If I put the rounded sides in first, I think I might get them it a little further but I've done some Youtube research and the consensus seems to be you put the flat up against the head. I laughed when I read on here someone said put a dob of grease on to hold them in place - I greased the tunnel section to try to get them to slide in a bit, but they get properly wedged in place!!
26
« on: August 20, 2019, 09:18:33 PM »
purely out of interest, what pistons have you fitted with the heart shape valve recesses?
Cruzinimage, exactly the same shape as the originals though - except the word 'Honda' wasn't cast into them!
27
« on: August 20, 2019, 12:09:08 PM »
I'm going to go ahead and guess that as soon as you have a touch, the valve is bent and you'd notice the engine pretty much stop 'engining' fairly rapidly?
I have a tapping noise, once per revolution that sounds metallic.
I had trouble getting the exhaust gaskets in, and I can't be sure they're actually sealed properly (have ordered another set and will clean the area with a dremel to make sure new ones fit properly)
The bike starts and runs and revs absolutely fine. I was a little paranoid so last night checked the clearances again and they're all good. Also dipped a boroscope camera thing in there and couldn't see any evidence of any damage at all - so I can't imagine I'm in a situation where any of the valves has touched and I've not noticed.
28
« on: August 20, 2019, 09:16:40 AM »
I see, thanks all!
29
« on: August 20, 2019, 08:28:45 AM »
As above really, I can see there are cutouts on the top of the pistons which initially led me to believe the pistons could never touch the valves if you put it together wrong (asking for a friend!). However, the shape of the cutouts isn't valve shaped, it's heart shaped and that makes me think it could be there to help combustion and gas flow.
Anyone know the truth? Can the valves hit the pistons?
30
« on: August 19, 2019, 09:02:18 AM »
Finished putting attaching most of the important pieces on Saturday [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] Sunday morning I decided to actually try to start it. Would you believe it was on the first prod of the starter? No, me neither. In fact though - I think I can claim this... When you set the fuel tap to 'On' instead of 'Res' and you only have about a litre of fuel in it, then realise, and set it correctly ... THIS happens: https://youtu.be/vglFIYK9DAII let it warm up for a minute or so, playing with the throttle and watching all manner of smoke appear from various places, but the engine was firing on 4 and seemed pretty dang smooth! I took it up the road for a quick ride, got into 3rd and noted a bit of clutch slip, so gingerly brought it back. Could be because I cleaned the plates, or they could be at the end of their limit - they were thin but still had some life left, will try again at some point and report back. Next job is to start at the front of the bike and work back, checking torque of every fastener and giving it a dob of paint. Then I'll flat the side panels, stick the stickers on and lacquer - then we'll consider this job done! 
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