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Messages - sgd37
16
« on: November 28, 2017, 05:37:57 PM »
Hi all, After going back and forth with this engine I discovered that my number 4 makes a sucking noise when cranked which the others don't seem to make. This is also present when running. I took a compression test and it is similar to the others. Could it be my intake valve not closing properly? I took a video of cranking it by hand https://youtu.be/5lNVgVJgoUUWould love to know what the experts think Cheers
17
« on: October 30, 2017, 05:54:27 PM »
Whilst good for general knowledge, I couldn't find an actual procedure to set the correct idle mixture.
Am I missing something?
Cheers
19
« on: September 29, 2017, 07:49:39 PM »
I think I may have a problem. When I was putting her back together I put a small amount of bonding compound around the hole that the 10 mm bolts that hold the bearings go through. I did this because when I took it apart there was left over compound in the hole, still stupid I know. I'm worried that I may have f upped the clearances and now shes eating bearings. I'm gonna change her oil out soon. Presumably there will be metal in the pan if that's the case.
Cheers
21
« on: September 28, 2017, 05:14:20 PM »
Well it doesn't come back on while running but there is no delay in it coming back on after I shut the engine off.
There is oil at the top end I removed the end caps and checked that oil flowed out. I might get my hands on a pressure gauge, do you know what the full pressure should be? Is there an easier way to check?
I have running in oil in it currently, wonder if it will behave any different with standard oil.
Cheers
22
« on: September 28, 2017, 02:11:57 PM »
Sorry to keep bringing this up,
But could the oil light coming back on quickly be an early sign of the main bearings wearing out, I did test them when I rebuilt it and they seemed within spec. Or are there too many things it could be?
Cheers
23
« on: September 26, 2017, 06:52:14 PM »
Thanks for the advice everyone,
I probably need to readjust the cam chain tensioner as well, as I haven't since I started it. Will give it a tune up and balance the carbs and see the effects.
Trigger how do you fine tune the points exactly?
I'm assuming that the oil light issue is nothing to worry about. Would a stuck oil filter have any effect on the light?
Thanks again
24
« on: September 22, 2017, 04:41:36 PM »
Hello everyone, I'm a year in my restoration and I got her started and she seems to work ok for most part however there is a clack or whistle that can be heard by the carburetors that I don't know what to make of. I've never heard one of these engines up close before. Could someone look at this video and tell me if she sounds ok. https://youtu.be/5VnLKPBvT1wAlso she doesn't seem to want to run with the choke closed and I'm wondering if this is due to the air screws. Any tips for properly setting them or do the carbs need to be balanced for that? Another odd thing is that the oil light seems to go out when it runs and then immediately come back on when I stop the engine. As I understand it should take a few seconds. Any advice would be appreciated.
25
« on: July 30, 2017, 08:21:00 PM »
So after realising that I didn't put enough oil in (my dipstick seems to be lying to me) I managed to get the oil to come out of the bolt holes, thanks Bryan for the tip. Hopefully I didn't do any damage cranking it without oil pumping.
with luck I will be able to fire her up in the coming days. Does anyone have any tips for break in procedure?
Also out of curiosity how do the valves get oil on these engines?
Thanks again everyone
26
« on: July 29, 2017, 06:14:23 PM »
Hi everyone!
So I'm nearing the point of being ready to start her up again after a full teardown (thanks for all your help in getting me here by the way). Before I do I was wondering if it is worth while taking the rocker cover off and pouring oil in the tray. I did coat the rockers and bearings with assembly grease but it has sat for a couple of months since the assembly. I also gave it a few pumps with the kick starter to see if oil flowed to the top (i think it does but not 100% sure).
Otherwise I'm looking for general tips for first start up. I have put in wear in oil and will be changing it afterwards. What is the usual ring seating procedure and anything else I should be mindful of?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
27
« on: July 21, 2017, 02:11:15 PM »
I had a few spillages while doing mine and the paint didn't look affected at all. Obviously I didn't leave it on there but washed it off with water with some bicarbonate soda mixed in. Phosphoric acid is pretty safe as long as you take sensible precautions. It is only stuff with magnesium in it that is at risk.
28
« on: July 21, 2017, 02:07:59 AM »
I treated my badly rusted tank with phosphoric acid. About 45% concentration swish around until there is no more rust (about 5-10 min), empty, wash out remaining acid with coca cola (yes I'm serious, it's the only way I found to stop it from flash rusting), then put in methelated spirits (300ml) to absorb all moisture, finally wash out with petrol. It should leave a rust resistant iron phosphate layer. Mine has had this treatment and has remained rust free since. Also be careful that the acid will attack the petcock so don't leave it in too long or take it off completely.
If you can reach the rust then coke and rub with tin foil works well due to the phosphoric acid in the coke.
29
« on: July 13, 2017, 04:49:09 PM »
Yeah I think I will go with the Avon speedmaster safety mileage combo.
@Niko those tyres look cool for sure but I want something a a bit more retro. However I would like to know where you got that seat.
Cheers
30
« on: July 10, 2017, 11:18:06 PM »
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