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Messages - H2Eric
106
« on: May 31, 2012, 08:10:54 PM »
Help required here. I sent my headlight brackets to the chrome platers unaware that the tubular bits that the indicators clamp on to were removable. The plater duly took them apart, obviously to facilitate the chroming process, but lost the small tubes. Oh bother or words to that effect. However, I take the view that what was made once can be made again and in this case shouldn't be too difficult. The question is how are the tubular bits attached? Can anybody supply a picture or description and some measurements so that copies can be made.
Thanks in anticipation
Eric
107
« on: May 07, 2012, 10:00:25 PM »
Thanks gentlemen. Seems the K3 has the same setup on the handlebar switch as the K7 judging by the parts fiche, though there maybe differences in the switches (different part numbers). Does the K3 have the lights on all the time like the K7 ?
Eric
108
« on: May 07, 2012, 10:21:41 AM »
I'm putting a K3 together, but using a few bits off other models to use up what I have lying around to save a few pence. The clutch lever I've just refurbished came from a K7 and has a switch with a couple of wires coming from it. What is that for? Please don't tell me that the H&S zealots have included an indicator light to tell you that you have pulled the clutch in.  Thanks Eric
109
« on: May 07, 2012, 10:01:42 AM »
Dynoman Performance dynoman.net of Austin Texas has a range of head and base gaskets for the CB750 Eric
110
« on: March 31, 2012, 04:52:54 PM »
I assume you are having trouble removing the allen screw in the bottom. When thats removed the forks come apart. As so often happens turning the screw just results in the damper inside turning as well. The answer - a windy gun. Defeats the screw every time. Good luck Eric Any tips or steps on removing the stanchion from the fork bottom? Having real problems!
Cheers
111
« on: March 22, 2012, 08:05:26 PM »
I was hoping to avoid the stainless braided versions, although it's good stuff and no doubt better than the original. Lets see what flea-bay turns up.
Thanks for the tip
Cheers
Eric
112
« on: March 22, 2012, 11:00:55 AM »
Does anyone know of a source for the braided oil lines that Honda originally used? I need extra lengths of the stuff for my CR750 project. Maybe there is something similar on a more modern bike, anyone know?
Thanks
Eric
113
« on: March 03, 2012, 01:08:55 PM »
Does anyone know the difference between the K2 and K3 emblems other than a huge difference in the price if you can find any. I'm looking for a set for my K3, but at $275 I think not, perchance the K2 ones are close enough and are much cheaper by comparison at least.
Thanks
Eric
114
« on: November 26, 2011, 04:10:27 PM »
Hi Rob
Many thanks for the info. all I have to do now is find a K2-K6 sprocket carrier.
Cheers
Eric
115
« on: November 25, 2011, 04:25:24 PM »
I have a K3 frame and swinging arm, I also have a rear wheel which came out of a K7, which of course will not fit as the later swinging arms were wider at the rear. It's not just the spacers that are different as the K7 wheel will not center in the K3 swinging arm. Is it perchance that it's the sprocket carrier that's the issue here?  Some measurements  back of sprocket to flange  Depth of bearing housing to sprocket  If the earlier sprocket carriers are narrower and assuming that the cush drive is the same then providing I can find one perhaps I might be able to use the K7 hub with the K3 Any info gratefully received Thanks Eric
116
« on: September 08, 2011, 06:03:50 PM »
Thanks gents
I think you're right in thinking that a lager capacity bike than the 750 is involved here. Someone has suggested that an RS1000 might be the candidate, but I can find no info in that respect.
Ant further thoughts anyone?
Cheers
Eric
117
« on: September 07, 2011, 06:52:56 PM »
Perchance somebody might be able to throw some light on this;  I acquired it with a job lot of CR750 parts, but it certainly doesn't belong on a CR nor does it fit a CB750 that I know of. Its takes a 630 chain, 38T as you can see and the central hole is 103mm in diameter. The distance across the holes for the studs is 124mm center to center. Any thoughts much appreciated. Thanks Eric
118
« on: April 02, 2011, 10:30:13 AM »
I would suggest that you remove whats left of the mount and have another mounting turned up on a lathe and welded in. I did this on my Suzuki GS750 after the previous owner for whatever reason had drilled through the mountings and just put a bolt through. Just drilling and tapping whats currently left of your mount may weaken it considerably.
Cheers
Eric
119
« on: March 07, 2011, 07:16:32 PM »
The acceleration was phenomenal. As to how fast it would go I never got the chance to find out due to forementioned engine blowing itself to bits the first time I ever rode the thing. It should in theory have run the quarter mile in about 7.5 seconds with a terminal speed of 180mph. The cause of the mechanical mayhem was the jockey pulley for the magneto drive slipping out of position allowing the belt to slip and hence the ignition going awry. It sure did make a mess and a very expensive mess at that. Buyer beware!
Cheers
Eric
120
« on: March 07, 2011, 12:44:12 PM »
Contrary to what it says on the e-bay listing I was the original builder / owner of that engine. This is a picture of the original bike  The engine you see in the picture is the MkI which spread its innards all over Elvington airfield. You would be amazed what a diet of 80% nitromethane can do when things go wrong. However, I rebuilt or more to the point replaced the engine as there wasn't a great deal salvageable from the MkI. The MkII engine is the one in the listing. Unfortunately there are a few bits missing. The crankshaft that's in it came from the MkI which unfortunately did suffer some damage in the blow up and one of the big end journals has a grove in it courtesy of the rod breaking. Oh. by the way three of the rods broke and went through the cases in the original. As I have suggested large doses of nitro = potential mechanical carnage and in my case it did! However, I did have the crank professionally crack tested and refurbished, so despite the damage to one of the big ends it should (in theory) be OK. I hasten to add that I have spoken to the current vendor and he is aware of this. Cheers Eric
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