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Messages - BenPowell
31
« on: December 08, 2021, 10:29:19 AM »
Thanks for bringing the part in Ash. Good timing for this, I have just this morning had CAD software put back on my laptop, which means I can do some drawing at home again  I'll make a start on drawing it up tonight but don't have much time, but should have some free time over the weekend. Once I've created the CAD file I'll be able to have a go at printing it. I've also just started looking at methods to improve the surface finish / strength of 3D printed parts to closer match the injection moulded smooth glossy finish (but only had a couple attempts so far). I'll post updates on this thread
32
« on: November 30, 2021, 10:24:34 PM »
If you would paint a candy red over white you would have to add so many layers to cover the white that the colour would become very dark.
But even still.... it is called light ruby red. Not light candy ruby red.
Last week we stripped a nasty rust patch off Ben's tank. Definitely original paint but multi layers from the factory just like AndrewS's 750K1 tank. If it was a solid colour why wold Honda bother doing that? As per the Honda Bulletin, I am sill convinced it's Candy coat over white base coat. We are going to try a patch, as I have some Candy Ruby Red paint left over.
(Attachment Link)
Bringing up the paint colour topic again with an update, myself and Ash finally got round to trying out the candy red on the white base on a small section of the tank. We sanded back the red top coat to reveal the white base below, we then applied the candy red over the white. The image shows the colour achieved by just having a quick go with the paint, it seems to match the original paint very well. The front lower portion of the tank is the original untouched paint, the stripe of red running over the top is the sample. What’s interesting is to look at the bike originally I wouldn’t have thought about it being a candy red over a white base. Based on the sample today, the multiple layers of red/white paint and the Honda bulletin, I’d be confident in saying that it is the correct way to produce the light ruby red colour. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
33
« on: November 26, 2021, 10:12:44 PM »
Hi everyone, Not given much of an update for a while, in all honesty I haven’t been doing as much as I would have liked, generally life getting in the way. Although I have finished building my shed, meaning I have some space to work on the bike through winter and I’ve started going through all the parts which have been boxed up for some time. Found some tools I forgot I even had as well Think the next step is removing the forks and wheels and start prepping the frame for paint, still not sure which route to go down with the paint, fortunately the frame looks to be generally rust free apart from the light surface rust in a few places. I recently treated my car with Dinitrol and have some left over, don’t know if it would be worth doing the insides of the frame tubes with it to protect/seal it. Hopefully will follow with more progress soon  Thanks again
34
« on: June 30, 2021, 08:36:27 PM »
Yeah there’s no life left in that bore anyway.
I think by looking at it I would probably get away with 0.50, I might keep going with the cleaning up and measure it once the pitting is out to see what the size is, suppose that’ll tell me what piston size I will have to go with then, or could go with 0.75 to be sure.
35
« on: June 30, 2021, 07:00:24 PM »
I’ve done some work on the cylinders tonight and had a go a cleaning up the pitted bore, I’ve got out a lot of the pitting but there is a fair bit which still remains, although it doesn’t feel too bad.
I’ve also dug out one of the bore micrometers from work and took some readings.
I used the untouched section of the good bore as a reference, measured 64.02mm which is standard spec for the engine. The worn section of the bore was 64.04mm.
Then measured the pitted bore, the bottom measures 64.06mm and the top section 64.11mm.
The pitted bore is right at the limit stated in the manual (diameter 64.1mm and taper 0.05mm) and as there’s still some pitting remaining I’m probably going to go for a re-bore, at least that can be getting done while I work my way through the other engine parts.
36
« on: June 29, 2021, 10:20:10 PM »
Cheers Ash, really appreciate the help with the parts should be back at the club next week all being well so can take a look at the parts then and see what we can do.
It is a build on a tight budget, so being able to make the most of parts available and re-use what I can will leave money spare for other parts later, it actually makes the restoration more of a challenge but also quite enjoyable making and re-using old parts. So far the spend on the bike has been minimal hope to keep it that way to see what is achievable without throwing tons of money at it.
37
« on: June 27, 2021, 10:00:31 PM »
That's a good sign, will take a look at the ebay store. starting to look like really good value.
Thanks
38
« on: June 27, 2021, 09:49:33 PM »
Ash, have a look at this, just seen it while scrolling through eBay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233882340721?hash=item3674794d71:g:w5MAAOSwal5YLw6rit's a tool used to re-fit the 'rivet pin' I'm sure i would be able to make one of these easy enough at work. All we would need then is a new pin, but again i think that would be fairly straight forward. If all goes to plan it will save a fair bit of money.
40
« on: June 27, 2021, 05:04:04 PM »
Hi everyone,
Spent a bit of time over the weekend cleaning various engine parts and getting rounded screws out.
I started cleaning out the piston bores, nothing aggressive yet, just some scotch bright and oil to clean up the corrosion. I’ve found some pitting near the top of one of the bores which means I’m probably going to need a rebore and oversize pistons and rings.
What’s everyones thoughts on aftermarket piston kits? Are they any good or worth avoiding and paying the extra for genuine?
Bryan, still going to give the flap wheel a go, but I’ve got a feeling it might not clean it up fully
41
« on: June 20, 2021, 10:03:59 PM »
I need to pass my test before I can even go out on mine, Once I have though, I plan on doing a few decent trips out. Really would like to get up to the lakes. I’m sure I’ve seen a post on here about bore tolerances so I’ll do some research to be sure.
42
« on: June 20, 2021, 05:55:50 PM »
Cheers Bryan, good shout on the flap wheel. Suppose it will be a lot more forgiving than using a stone.
Once they’re cleaned I was going to measure the bores to see how much life is in them, ideally want to avoid re-boring if possible. Hopeful they should have a bit with 8000 miles on the clock.
43
« on: June 20, 2021, 10:48:41 AM »
Engine strip down went ahead as planned on Saturday, fortunately Ash was around at work to help out with it.
Overall the condition of the engine isn’t bad, all seemed fairly clean apart from one piston and bore which would have been the seized one.
I think it was Bryan who mentioned checking the oil filter (on the newbie post) as it’s often neglected, I was finally was able to inspect it and it didn’t look too bad, I’ll put a photo below of it.
The piston bores don’t look too bad, there is some staining on the bore which was seized and a bit of corrosion, but outside of the ‘running face’ portion of the bore, I think it would probably clean up as I can’t feel any visible pits.
Ash has a Sykes Pickavant honing tool which I could use to clean up the bores, but I don’t know what grade of stone I should be using to clean up the bores?? If anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great.
Other than that I need a new cam chain and roller, (managed to get a NOS roller on eBay) since it’s been slapping the wall and worn a grove into it.
New pistons rings one of which was broken into three parts. Full gasket and seal kit for the engine.
I think I got fairly lucky with the engine, there doesn’t seem to be any major issues. Got the long process of cleaning out and inspecting all of the parts then hopefully start the rebuild in a few weeks time.
44
« on: June 18, 2021, 12:14:29 AM »
Hi everyone,
Bit of a progress update on the CB350.
Been busy the last few weeks doing bits here and there, mainly painting things black and working on the carbs.
Finally, the carbs are at a point where all I need is a new seal kit, after going through each part and removing the varnished fuel, maybe one last clean before fitting to the bike, whenever that may be.
All the electrics have been removed from the bike, a few dodgy wires which will need some attention, but hope to test the loom at some point in the near future.
The engine is finally out of the bike, and ready to start stripping down, hopefully this Saturday, I did have a quick look under the cam cover, visually it looks really clean. Pic below. But I’m really keen to see what condition the bores and rings are in.
As always if anyone has any tips or tricks to add it is really appreciated.
Thanks everyone, hopefully will be posting some more stuff on Saturday for the engine strip down.
45
« on: June 02, 2021, 06:37:11 PM »
Yeah, I was surprised myself how well they cleaned up, took a bit of time but we’ll worth it, maybe a bit of room to improve them some more. I just need to protect the underside of them now to stop them rusting from the inside out. Pictures below before the elbow grease.
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