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Topics - Sprocket
1
« on: December 10, 2019, 09:59:35 AM »
Dang. I knew straight away without looking what I had done... The knuckle joint has split open and (besides being pretty furious with myself for my lack of mechanical sympathy) I'm looking for a replacement.
I know the cb350f and cb400f use the same part number, so I'm hopeful I will find one eventually. Anyone on here got one they would like to part with?
2
« on: September 30, 2019, 08:23:15 AM »
There's a fair amount of travel in my (front) brake lever before the business end actually makes contact with the end of the master cylinder piston. I reckon I've get 20-25mm of play as seen at the end of the lever. I don't think I can fix it either, you'd have to build up the end to make it contact sooner.
Don't know if it's an original Honda lever perhaps it's a poor copy, just interested if anyone else has noticed similar?
3
« on: August 20, 2019, 09:39:41 PM »
Hi - seems I'm spamming the place at the mo, sorry etc...
The gaskets I got with the head gasket set from DS were a bit on the large side, in diameter. When I cleaned the head up I didn't spend a massive amount of time with a dremel on the inside of the tunnel section, so the walls were a bit rough, and I put the poor fit down to that. I put the gaskets in as best I could and fitted the exhaust. I couldn't get the finned collar tight up to the head either, best I could do without feeling like I was going to pull a stud out was to get about 4mm thread showing in front of the nuts (and spring washers). That right? or am I being too soft?
Because the engine was making a ticking noise I suspected a leak on #3 or #4 and no amount of 'just nipping up' was making me feel like it would help, I decided to take the exhaust back off and look. I'm reasonably confident the gasket for #3 was leaking a bit because it wasn't squashed as well as the others.
I've a replacement (not Honda) set now that appear to be a little thicker but the same diameter (39.83mm).
I got the dremel out with the sandpaper barrel and have thoroughly cleaned the insides of the tunnel section for #3 and #4, but these gaskets still don't just butt up to the head. I can press them so far with fingers before they start to want to deform - maybe 8-10mm or so away.
If I put the rounded sides in first, I think I might get them it a little further but I've done some Youtube research and the consensus seems to be you put the flat up against the head. I laughed when I read on here someone said put a dob of grease on to hold them in place - I greased the tunnel section to try to get them to slide in a bit, but they get properly wedged in place!!
4
« on: August 20, 2019, 08:28:45 AM »
As above really, I can see there are cutouts on the top of the pistons which initially led me to believe the pistons could never touch the valves if you put it together wrong (asking for a friend!). However, the shape of the cutouts isn't valve shaped, it's heart shaped and that makes me think it could be there to help combustion and gas flow.
Anyone know the truth? Can the valves hit the pistons?
5
« on: August 14, 2019, 11:04:40 AM »
Is there a variation in oil drain bolt sizes?
Bought a washer online described for F0/77, took out leaky dowty style washer, plugged hole with finger, struggled to get old washer off plug one-handed, eventually 7 year old mini-me helped, but then realised the new washer I have is way too small to go on. Reassembled and washed (thankfully unsullied) oil off my hands and scratched head.
Mine is an early engine. I can only think the bolt sizes changed, or someone has already mullered my sump and it's a bigger bolt in there.
6
« on: June 29, 2019, 05:11:43 PM »
Looking at the front oil galleries that go up through the barrels (the ones that use the large dowels at the head) I'm concerned there are different shapes meeting each other. The cases have a kind of triangle section but the barrels side looks round. Should i use some hondabond on the base gasket i wonder?
7
« on: June 20, 2019, 11:58:59 AM »
I understand there are a few designers named at Honda, who were mostly responsible for certain bikes. Tadao Baba and his Fireblade, Soichiro Honda and the Cub (later Super Cub). Wiki is light on detail of any other designers names, and I wondered if anyone here knew more?
8
« on: June 04, 2019, 08:20:17 AM »
A while ago I purchased a set of gears for the bike after seeing 6th was damaged and no sensibly priced single gear replacements were available. Looked at the set last night and I realised I've been 'done'! The countershaft is supposed to have a press fitted seal inside at both ends and on my replacement set, one end had been punched through (screwdriver?) and the other end was missing. Unfortunately I know this set is off a 14k mile bike and it's in much better condition than the one I took out. There's no wear at all on the needle bearing end.
So I have my old knackered one with intact plugs in, and the new one without. I expect a local machine shop could fix something in either end, but I wondered if there was a technique for removing these plugs that didn't involve a screwdriver punching one out, so I could reuse?
9
« on: June 02, 2019, 03:21:54 PM »
Any chance someone has a single (new) black piston ring i could buy? I have a cruzinimage standard size piston set, all went together ok but i ham-fistedly broke a black one when my feeler gauge slipped. 
10
« on: May 24, 2019, 04:30:23 PM »
Hello. Quick sanity check if I may (Oddjob, Julie, etc...)
I have a case with BBBAB on it, and my crank looks like this:
[ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
I think I need 4 sets of green and one set of brown mains and four sets of green big end bearings.
B1, B1, B1, A2, B2
2B, 3A, 3A, 3A
That seem right?
11
« on: April 13, 2019, 09:34:12 PM »
Has anyone come across any useful 3d printer files at all? I'm specifically thinking of the horn button on the 400, but I've run out of Google-fu trying.
12
« on: March 03, 2019, 12:04:10 PM »
Hi - silly question, perhaps. Is the camchain adjuster bolt at the front of the engine supposed to be completely perpendicular to the front of the crankcases? Mine was definitely a little skewiff, and when I looked inside I can see the original drilling is at a bit of an angle. So I can see the merit in either being correct.
13
« on: February 20, 2019, 09:03:46 AM »
Hi. When I stripped the bike the large bolt that goes through the top of the top engine case at the front simply cheesed its way off. I was left with a little stub of thread on one side and a flush twisted off wreck the other. So, in the few months since removal I've had plus gas dripping over it every couple of days. I've centre punched it from both sides. I've gently tapped it from both sides. I've attached a mole grip on the threaded portion and tried to wiggle it. I've put two nuts on the thread done up against each other and monkeyed on the biggest bar I've got and I've gently tapped a very lot harder. This thing will not move. Can anyone confirm if there's a thread in the casting? My last two options are heat and if unsuccessful, a local engineering firm who I think will apply all the above but then some additional machines with long drill bits. 
14
« on: December 17, 2018, 11:14:00 AM »
Bet this post gets a few views. I'm after nudes. The bikes, people, the bikes!! In putting bits back on my bike I've realised there are very few pics around that show where stuff is supposed to go. Particularly interested in things like the wiring loom, bracket orientation, hoses and tubes etc.
Could someone point me at a (SFW) location for pics of a CB400F without the tank, seat and side panels on please?
15
« on: October 18, 2018, 10:20:46 AM »
Hi - have got the forks in pieces awaiting sending off to hard rechrome. Looking at the lowers as I don't want to embarrass the rest of the bike when it's reassembled. There are a couple previous finishes (or refinishes!) apparent. The top where the boots fit are machined slightly, can see some faint grooves. Bit further down I can see remnants of clear lacquer and the associated rot creep underneath. And a little bit further still there's bare metal polished to some extent. On the back I can see what I can only refer to as 'casting finish' which is slightly stippled and looks like it's the kind of surface I've seen before on newer Hondas I've owned.
So I know I could polish the lowers, but they're quite marked and I don't really fancy putting weeks of work into that. I know it's not going to end up concours spec, I just want it tidy. I am thinking paint, but don't know what was originally put on. Does anyone have any ideas? Paint codes or reasonable colour matches?
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