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Messages - K2-K6
1
« on: Today at 10:47:39 AM »
The fact that the L was a half grade came from the same reptat suggested d7ev to me, and that man knew how to read plugs
Thats noted on some published charts too .... the -L designation. https://www.ngk.com/ngk-spark-plug-numbering-systems this lists that design element, although note that they have a statement of NOT being NGK USA official scource. The listed data looks comprehensive though.
2
« on: Today at 10:43:18 AM »
From a wheel installation point of view ... usually I roll the wheel in, put chain on sprocket (not usually split) then roll wheel back and put spindle in that side, push through to brake plate, hold the spacer in there to fully locate wheel and then complete the whole thing by holding wheel rim at top as it's still located on chain side to facilitate alignment through right side of swingarm.
3
« on: Today at 10:37:03 AM »
As interesting alternative Ted https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390062925510 these are flank drive and very low profile ratchet head for access. Another point for interest (I've already had an alternative manufacturer set like this) is that they make extremely good plug spanner setup for these 4 cylinder Honda engines, with the "pass through " arrangement being able to use the extension and a socket to drop over the plug .... being hollow, both item ... to make very useful reach and access for those two central plugs. You'd need to check that plug facility yourself though as mine is a different make (now not available) Bahco also owned by SO too.
4
« on: April 23, 2024, 04:42:51 PM »
Mostly worked on 750 and always with them on right side of bike. Amusing that in a original Honda 750 manual, a double page spread illustrated with exploded build diagram on RHS, picture of rear with it on RHS, also another picture installed opposite  LHS. As Julie notes though, it doesn't make a difference from a clamping point of view, the spindle is "floating" and will effectively impart tensile load the same from whichever side you put it in.
5
« on: April 23, 2024, 02:15:48 PM »
If it's properly "farked" .... cheap socket, tap it on, weld it to it, then it'll come undone. They don't get stuck on their threads, just compressed the seal o-ring and if done too tight by previous O then "splaying" the filter housing. The bolt diameter is quite big as it houses the oil pressure bypass valve to accommodate if the paper filter gets blocked as emergency through route. The flange is relatively small in it's overhang from that bolt diameter, but probably difficult to cut off without risking the housing. A really good new/sharp set of "cobra" waterpump type pliers can get onto the outside of flange to succeed sometimes .... keep your fingers out the way though  in case they slip. It's an odd one, because they aren't usually stuck that much, as in not seized solid, just enough to prevent easily coming undone with a mangled hex. All because people avoid warning not to tighten them too much.
6
« on: April 23, 2024, 09:08:50 AM »
You could file the flats to give a little better chance with a smaller sized socket firstly.
The WD doesn't usually do much as they aren't usually stuck in conventional "corrosion" terms, more that they've been tightened too much to distort the filter housing and just making the torque required too high to turn easily.
The housing will rock clock and anti clockwise within it's pegged location, just a little. Turn if fully clockwise first, then while putting pressure on the bolt to undo it, try and turn the housing WITH the bolt, until it reaches it's furthest anti clockwise position.
Then hold the bolt and turn the filter back fully clockwise again, then repeat this to get the bolt moved. It's just fidgeting it (doesn't move much) but gradually ratchets the bolt to help it loosen. Once the pressure comes off the housing the bolt will usually move easily.
7
« on: April 21, 2024, 07:55:45 PM »
What's the original mc bore diameter on the 500 ? Is it 14mm ?
With that, 5/8 will give a hydraulic loss (disadvantage) but likely the mechanical on radial will be the opposite direction.
It shouldn't be too much in the way of overall effect, but only really thorough way is to try one.
If lever pivot is "bearing-ed" or very competent bush, and caliper is meticulously on target for free movement, seal condition etc, then highly probable it'll work well.
You'll not be far out of bed in reality, more a preference in how you like them to feel and ideal potency is going to be up for debate.
8
« on: April 19, 2024, 09:38:55 AM »
Are the moving taper part of the valve brass or rubber tip Dave ?
If brass, you could spin them in lathe and use a emery stick fine finish to dress the taper again.
9
« on: April 18, 2024, 03:51:03 PM »
Good luck with the op Dennis. I had a biopsy carried out on my right ear a couple of weeks ago and it is still too painful to even attempt to put a crash helmet on! Carpel tunnel issues, you must have been a MGP or Superbike racer, a true motorcycling god 
Hope the result is a negative on biopsy Dave. I had similar about 8 yrs ago on right ear about 10 o'clock position, with no further action. Nice bit of blanket stitch though and all healed invisibly now.
10
« on: April 18, 2024, 09:52:01 AM »
Adjusted floats all within 1mls now no leaks at carb rubber it was still popping check exhaust copper washer it was leaking now no popping and air screw set to 1 1/2 so I think it was exhaust washer
Good to get to the bottom of it, probably beneficial to have that odd one out float chamber now matching the others too. The idle airscrew adjustment does allow for difference in individual flow within Honda set-up routine, being the real icing on the cake in regards to carb balance and smooth low speed running. This is exactly what modern fuel injection systems do for smooth idle rpm, modulation of cylinder mixture by monitoring of the cylinder speed individually through ecu. Honda did this way before by observation of rpm and singular adjustment of idle circuit to get them smooth.
11
« on: April 18, 2024, 09:19:58 AM »
I'd start with removing exhaust, carbs etc, then plug the holes and give the engine a really good clean while its easily accessible. Prefer that to dismantle with oil/grit etc in place.
Then electrics off, finally engine out then just the chassis to dismantle when it's completely bare.
12
« on: April 18, 2024, 09:14:53 AM »
I'd be inclined to remove and inspect it, to then at least have confidence in it's competent operational effectiveness.
It should be at highest "over pressure" risk when starting with cold oil, the relief valve is ultimately to save the oil pump drive from failure on any engine.
13
« on: April 16, 2024, 12:26:38 AM »
Agree that it would be ideal to reset the float height to get equal volume, within reasonable scope, for all the carbs. Certainly it should remove suspicion at least for further evaluation.
I just can't see the view given by that scource about the direction of the airscrew in mixture volume though. Highly suspicious that's wrong and obviously contentious.
There's a good comparison too, with the F2 PD carbs, having the "mixture" adjustment screw on engine side of throttle slide, they emphatically work to change fuel volume rather than air. This type is turned out to increase fuel volume at low speed circuit.
These carb, K series, with screw on airbox side of throttle slide, change the air volume to alter mix by giving more air bypass to the circuit when moved outward (anticlockwise) such that the venturi vacuum can then exert less "pull" on the installed idle jet. Close them right inward, then it's pure fuel and no air they suck. Out makes it leaner, and sounds so too.
14
« on: April 15, 2024, 07:57:54 AM »
Diagnosis, the need to seperate electric from fuel is priority in helping to solve this.
Start from cold, run 20 sec then switch off. Check exhaust for cylinder temperature to find which are cold. Swap a "hot" plug with a cold one, then repeat to see if the problem transfer across between those two.
If it stays in the same place (the fault) then you can swap plug leads over. If fault is on #1 then swap the plug lead over with #4 to, again, see if the fault moves. Same if it's one of the two middle cylinder 2 & 3 that show fault.
If you've two cold and consistent with 1 coil of ignition, e.g. both 1 & 4 then you're ordinarily looking at that whole set of ignition. The points, condenser, leads and coil & caps for that set.
If absolutely none of this has any effect, then it's likely in the fuel system.
15
« on: April 15, 2024, 07:38:59 AM »
Good news Mo, hopefully another little problem sorted and good to get it to the show too.
There's often a few bits on most older bike that's needed in sorting out, despite what was claimed from seller. Hopefully you're closer to having how you want it now with the work you've done. It does feel better if you can get reasonably conclusive fixes in place, along with the confidence to take it out more.
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