Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB350/400 => Topic started by: Laverda Dave on April 18, 2024, 08:04:43 PM
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Now this is a very nice bike on eBay. Seller says it has been fully restored and has spent the last six years in a vac bag. Currently at £2,650 with four days to go. Even if it reaches £4000 it would still be a bargain.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135019534484?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JYyoHWyxQFy&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=5XpGce3OSuS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
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Looks purdy
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The bids will probably rocket upwards in the last 3 minutes I guess. 👍
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Imagine not cleaning up that rusted up choke lever before taking the picture. :o
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The speedo has an F1 dial face rather than an F2 on it that has a km/h scale in green, the trip grommet is crumpled and the stainless steel gauge mounting plates should be secured with cap nut rather than plan nuts.
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Why doesn't the brake lever have a protector but the clutch lever does? Do more riders fall on the left hand side,?!
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Why doesn't the brake lever have a protector but the clutch lever does? Do more riders fall on the left hand side,?!
It's got a replacement master cylinder.
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The speedo has an F1 dial face rather than an F2 on it that has a km/h scale in green, the trip grommet is crumpled and the stainless steel gauge mounting plates should be secured with cap nut rather than plan nuts.
I noticed the Speedo face Peter but not the lack of cap nuts. When you work with these all day I guess you notice the small but important missing details. He should have sent the clocks to you for your expert repair👍.
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It's very nice, although my pet hate is a wonky numberplate, and the screws on it are also at different levels... ( and the screws heads aren't all aligned the same ..ie parallel to the ground!).
I see loads of expensive cars in the road where the number plate is screwed on but isn't horizontal - would you pay serious money and then know that that the garage couldn't be bothered to fit the number plate correctly?!
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Think it’s a wicked little bike, kept for a reason and cherished enough to put in a vac bag.
You lot are a tough crowd
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Wendy's Freelander rear plate was a good 1/4 " out of level when we purchased it a couple of years ago plus it was not central in the boot recess.
When I removed the plate the holes drilled into the boot we're not level either.
Needless to say I sorted it.
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Think it’s a wicked little bike, kept for a reason and cherished enough to put in a vac bag.
You lot are a tough crowd
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And folk said Ken was a harsh critic!
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Evidence that this bike has been sitting around for a period of time but nevertheless a nice 400 for someone to purchase, interesting too to see what price it goes for! Anyone on here on the hunt for one?
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Yes, an interesting bike with perhaps not too much to rectify - silencer at least looks aftermarket. I'll keep an eye to see what it ends up at, like many others but I have a similar condition one with lots of genuine NOS stuff and one or two copies.
I don't think Ted is unreasonable about the number plate saga - it's easy enough to do it right in the first place. Years ago we were following a newish Rolls Royce and the rear number plate, bolted on was at least half an inch lower at one side. Had that been my new car, I would have kicked the idiot who fitted it up and down the road!
Ian
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Back in the day most cars had number plate mounting holes fitted at the factory with a threaded dead eye or a plasic insert for a hex head type screw at the rear.
It was not difficult to affix a level plate - when I was doing new car PDI's and fitting plates on Vauxhalls & Opels if a plate was not level the foreman would send me back to the Stores to make a& fit a replacement.
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Not a good look Ian especially on a roller. Any car for that matter!
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This one only made £1200 plus fees & VAT?
https://www.carandclassic.com/auctions/1977-honda-400-four-super-sport-8WNOm4?bsft_pid=47697550-a1e5-4afc-a9e5-0c498549daea&utm_campaign=targeted-uk-automated-email-0-3-months-19-02-23&utm_source=blueshift&utm_medium=email&utm_content=targeted-uk-new-design-automated-email-0-90-daily-19-02-24&bsft_txnid=d18c6d31-56f9-4b7d-8033-20c69a7af3f6&bsft_pp=1&bsft_mime_type=html&bsft_lx=11&bsft_tv=10&bsft_bk=block1
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That would be a good price IF the spares that come with are items such as the original headlight, clocks etc. It would still require a lot of work and money to bring it up to the same condition as the one on eBay. Appears to have the plastic rear mudguard and no front mudguard at all. Not bad as a basis for a cafe racer or suchlike though but you'd want to hear the engine running before shelling out £1200.
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Well, it sold for £3,400. Somebody grabbed a bargain 👍
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That on the face of it looks a good buy at that price, the engine looked as though it has not been painted so let the bike down I thought.
I expected it to reach £4k.
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That on the face of it looks a good buy at that price, the engine looked as though it has not been painted so let the bike down I thought.
I expected it to reach £4k.
I expected it to reach £5,000. What went wrong for the seller, is the current economic climate creating a buyers market or did I simply pay far too much for a bike that wasn't as good six years ago? ::) Could the demand for cash have effected things given that the powers that be seem to be making cash a suspicious entity?
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Might be the bidders saw it in the flesh and the photos were very flattering.
Auction prices are sometimes about extremes in either direction rather than true value especially as there was no reserve set and the family just wanted to move it on quickly.
This 550 only fetched £1000 - I'ne no idea if this was cheap or is that all they fetch unrestored.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256481193937
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That number plate looks huge, it's almost covering the indicators. I think they may have ordered the wrong size there. The drag from that sail will probably stop him cracking 50 mph.
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Bargain! 😜
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Yes, it did seem to be rather low priced, probably cost more to do than what it went for. Perhaps we might eventually see the new owner on here and find out how much of a bargain it turned out to be - unless they are already a member of course!
Ian
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Looking at some of the photos I noted the rear axle nut seemed to be on back to front, which in turn can only mean the axle is too, so I checked on the CMSL diagram, but no, it is ME that has it on back to front! :o ( see image) ding dong...was it me that started this or a mechanic in the past? Thing is....does it actually matter? :-\
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You are not alone my 400 has the nut on the left hand side.
In the Honda Parts List it is shown with the nut on the left hand side.
Might be it's been shifted to the right side so the silencer is not in the way.
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You are not alone my 400 has the nut on the left hand side.
In the Honda Parts List it is shown with the nut on the left hand side.
I'm glad there are at least two nutters on here then! Ted, my picture shows it on the right hand side. ;D
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It makes sense to have the nut next to the sprocket as that is where the greatest force will be trying to displace the wheel from centre.
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You are not alone my 400 has the nut on the left hand side.
In the Honda Parts List it is shown with the nut on the left hand side.
I'm glad there are at least two nutters on here then! Ted, my picture shows it on the right hand side. ;D
The dowloadable Shop Manual supports us Lefties. ;D ;D ;D
The 500 is also shown in manuals as a left side nut fitting as does Mr Haynes.
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Having the nut as per the photo means you can slide the axle out without having to disturb the exhaust.
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This is turning into a heated discussion..... JULIE .... come and tell us which way around it should be! ;D
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Deffo left
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100% left. Why anyone would even consider putting on the right is beyond me.
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If your happy to take the exhaust off every time you get a puncture put the nut left, otherwise put it on the sensible right.
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To be honest, I've seen them both sides and have had my own 400's on both sides. I don't n't think it makes a huge amount of difference though. If I had a puncture, I'd walk away and leave the bike, there's no way I'm taking a wheel off by the side of the road. The practical side of my head says right, the purist side of my head says left.
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I don't see as it actually makes any difference unless I am missing something as the swing arm has open ends so the wheel can
be removed anyway. Possibly a production line thing for getting a gun on the nut.
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Mostly worked on 750 and always with them on right side of bike.
Amusing that in a original Honda 750 manual, a double page spread illustrated with exploded build diagram on RHS, picture of rear with it on RHS, also another picture installed opposite :) LHS.
As Julie notes though, it doesn't make a difference from a clamping point of view, the spindle is "floating" and will effectively impart tensile load the same from whichever side you put it in.
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Triggers view on it is that the nut should be on right, for 2 reasons. If you need to remive the wheel with the on board tool kit, you would put your foot on the spanner to give extra pressure to undo the nut. If it was on the left, you would have to pull up on the spanner. And, if it was on the right and you are pulling up on the spanner, there is a risk that the bike could roll forward off of the centre stand.
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1st pic From Dealer Setup Manual and 2nd the 'Push mile' bike auctioned a couple of years ago. I think the push miles one is wrong (as was a lot of other things were on that bike for a cool 16k or whatever it was after fees etc. :) )
I always fitted on right but I think Mr Honda intended it to be on the left.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
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Triggers view on it is that the nut should be on right, for 2 reasons. If you need to remive the wheel with the on board tool kit, you would put your foot on the spanner to give extra pressure to undo the nut. If it was on the left, you would have to pull up on the spanner. And, if it was on the right and you are pulling up on the spanner, there is a risk that the bike could roll forward off of the centre stand.
That's it then, mine is staying on the right! ;)
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When they arrive in a packing case is the rear wheel on place?
If not it might be down to the PDI assembly.
Can't see it makes any difference TBH.🤔🤔🤔
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When they arrive in a packing case is the test wheel on place?
If not it might be down to the PDI assembly.
Can't see it makes any difference TBH.🤔🤔🤔
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ewl1d9td0nhxeya/CB400_set-up_man.pdf?dl=0
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
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That's one theory out of the window, the rear wheel is factory fitted.
Looks like the nut is on the left in the packing case photo though resolution is poor on my phone.
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That's one theory out of the window, the rear wheel is factory fitted.
Looks like the nut is on the left in the packing case photo though resolution is poor on my phone.
from setup manual Ted !
[attachimg=1]
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Back in the very distant past (2000) I entered my 400/4 into the concours line up at the VJMC show weekend in Kettering. Before anyone asks, I rode the bike there and back as I had restored it 9 years previously and used it as intended but kept it immaculate. When the judges came round one of them said I had the rear wheel spindle the wrong way round, the nut should be on the right he said. I countered with I put it on the left to make it easier to undo it. My excuse wasn't accepted and I was marked down. No rosette for me just a highly commended sticker (that is still on the bike to this day).
I think the year after the VJMC insisted that any bike entered into the concours event must be started and ridden around the enclosure as there were a lot of rumours that some of the very obscure winning bikes didn't actually have any engine internals!
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I'm with you on this Ash I'm a Leftie.
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From a wheel installation point of view ... usually I roll the wheel in, put chain on sprocket (not usually split) then roll wheel back and put spindle in that side, push through to brake plate, hold the spacer in there to fully locate wheel and then complete the whole thing by holding wheel rim at top as it's still located on chain side to facilitate alignment through right side of swingarm.
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Somewhat related...as far as whether the nut goes on the right or left regarding having a puncture...
Although I haven't had a puncture in many years, I patched many a tube on the side of the road without removing the wheel so I don't see the nut location as an issue I'd be concerned about, at least for that purpose.
But it sounds like if you're doing concours stuff, it DOES matter.
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My spindle nut is on the left. You don’t have to take out the spindle to remove the wheel. Slacken the spindle nut, disconnect the brake connections on the right hand side, split the chain(or remove from sprocket), then the whole wheel, sprocket, adjusters and brake plate slide out backwards in one assembly.
Replace in reverse order, as they say in the best manuals!
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I'm with you on this Ash I'm a Leftie.
Blimey, it's going political ....what if someone is centrist :-\ I'm politically mobile myself so I don't really give a hoot which way around it is from that viewpoint! ;D
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I'm with you on this Ash I'm a Leftie.
Blimey, it's going political ....what if someone is centrist :-\ I'm politically mobile myself so I don't really give a hoot which way around it is from that viewpoint! ;D
Agree George, as long as its done up tight, that's all that matters really.
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I'm not too bothered about which way it's fitted either - what concerns me most about the picture showing the nut on the left is that I don't think the left adjuster bolt is sitting in the 'centralising dimple'. Looks too low to me.
Ian
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I did used to thing that mine was reasonably tidy...now im not so sure after all the comments! :)