Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB750 => Topic started by: hondacb750fourk6 on October 07, 2023, 05:19:49 PM
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Hi anyone else on here had a problem using esso E5 super unleaded petrol I bought a classic car 3 weeks ago when I collected the car the car was driving lovley he had put 4 gallons of petrol in it then called into a esso petrol station in north wales filled it up with £50.17 worth of E5 super unleaded petrol then after about five miles the car started to backfire from the carburettors causing the car to loose power and coughing and spluttering coming from the twin carburettors and I noticed a bad smell of fumes coming into the car then the problem went away then it started again when I got onto the M54 casing the car to back fire and loss of power causing me to breakdown had to call the recovery breakdown to tow me back home I,ve done a check on a sample of petrol pouring it into a little plastic water boltle to see if it’s contaminated with water but no sighn of water then done a test like someone on YouTube poring a drop into a metal lid off a pedal bin and putting a match to it to see when the flames go out to see if there’s sighn of any moisture but no sighn of moisture but one thing I did notice a lot of black smoke coming off the petrol is this a sighn of stale petrol or it going off the one on YouTube was talking about the esso petrol he used in his car that messed all the jets up in the injection system and someone else told me this when I was in a euro car parts shop he used esso petrol said it messed up all the jets in the injection system so now I,ve got to drain all the petrol out of the tank as the cars not running right I,ve complained to esso customer service but are blaming the retailer where I bought the petrol from even thou it’s sighn posted with the esso logo on the petrol pumps so has anyone else had problems using esso petrol
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Nope.
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No problem for me either.
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I use Esso E5 in all of my classic bikes and our two cars, as there is an Esso station within a mile of our house.
No problems at all to date.
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I have had problems, not with Esso, but where a station had not cared for their tanks and the fuel had a lot of crap in it, and once where they knew they were closing down and dropped kerosene in to lift the last of the petrol
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I use my local Esso garage, no problems to report with the bikes, car & generator
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Imho you can have fuel issues with places that have low fuel turn over or very old storage tanks - not usually a brand issue.
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I haven't had a problem with Esso fuel but did have a big problem with BP super unleaded fuel. I filled up a new plastic 5litre container (there was no crap in the container prior to filling it up). When I got home I poured half the fuel into a spotlessly clean alloy tank. The bike would not start and after a while I checked the fuel in the container. I contained water and a lot of debris. I called the petrol station and they didn't want to know so I posted a review and received replies from others who had the same problems at the same garage.
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I had that same problem 2015 my Triumph Trident T160 1975 wouldn’t start one day during winter I told my friend in the triumph club to ask his other friend in the bike club he told my friend to tell me drain all the petrol from the tank and put fresh super unleaded petrol in it the bike started striate away as I always bought petrol from sainsburys and I,ve got the same problem esso don’t want to no they are saying take it up with Greenway even thou esso supply the petrol to greenway so far I,ve drained 8 litres from the car from the pipe that goes to the petrol pump haven’t found any water in it so far or dirt as I used a funnel with a filter in it to pour the petrol into containers as the person I got the car from told me there’s a lot of dirt in the petrol and told me the petrol is contaminated with water up north wales
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I use my local Esso garage, no problems to report with the bikes, car & generator
That’s what that person on YouTube is saying there is kerosene in the petrol it shows him setting a light to it so perhaps that’s what’s in the petrol I bought from esso causing my car not to run right or the E5 petrol is contaminated with E10 petrol as that would cause my car not to run right
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I had that same problem 2015 my Triumph Trident T160 1975 wouldn’t start one day during winter I told my friend in the triumph club to ask his other friend in the bike club he told my friend to tell me drain all the petrol from the tank and put fresh super unleaded petrol in it the bike started striate away as I always bought petrol from sainsburys and I,ve got the same problem esso don’t want to no they are saying take it up with Greenway even thou esso supply the petrol to greenway so far I,ve drained 8 litres from the car from the pipe that goes to the petrol pump haven’t found any water in it so far or dirt as I used a funnel with a filter in it to pour the petrol into containers as the person I got the car from told me there’s a lot of dirt in the petrol and told me the petrol is contaminated with water up north wales
That's one very long sentence!
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I use my local Esso garage, no problems to report with the bikes, car & generator
That’s what that person on YouTube is saying there is kerosene in the petrol it shows him setting a light to it so perhaps that’s what’s in the petrol I bought from esso causing my car not to run right or the E5 petrol is contaminated with E10 petrol as that would cause my car not to run right
Doubt you'd even notice if it did have E10 content.
Which car, engine and carbs are they.
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Evidently 'Esso Synergy Supreme+ 99' is ethanol free and they sell it at the Tesco garage closest to me.
Don't shoot me if I am wrong ... just read about it on another forum.
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the person I got the car from told me there’s a lot of dirt in the petrol and told me the petrol is contaminated with water up north wales
Or possibly crap in the tank of the car he sold you?
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Evidently 'Esso Synergy Supreme+ 99' is ethanol free and they sell it at the Tesco garage closest to me.
Don't shoot me if I am wrong ... just read about it on another forum.
I have read similar though it's also dependent on the refinery source. Refineries in the North of the country it appears are Ethanol free in SUL in the south the SUL is E5.
Update This is not just Esso but She'll & BP.
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Evidently 'Esso Synergy Supreme+ 99' is ethanol free and they sell it at the Tesco garage closest to me.
Don't shoot me if I am wrong ... just read about it on another forum.
Ash, I believe the Supreme fuel isn't available in Devon / Cornwall. I use this fuel whenever possible and confirm there is no ethanol in it (AFAIK)
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Evidently 'Esso Synergy Supreme+ 99' is ethanol free and they sell it at the Tesco garage closest to me.
Don't shoot me if I am wrong ... just read about it on another forum.
It’s a Rover 2.2 twin carbs with su carbs on it
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Presumably a P6 then ? A nice car and very interesting design too.
SU will ordinarily not be unusually sensitive to anything much in the way of minor fuel compromise. Unsure if you are experienced with them or new to you ? Check the oil in carb dash pots if you've not already looked there.
Sounds more likely ignition if it's on points still.
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Also check the rubber pipe between carbs i have seen one where slivers of rubber came off the inside when fitting and messed up float needles
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Any non metal fuel pipe, if not replaced with ethanol proof, will degrade. In some cases it dissolves and coats the carbs.
I have twin SUs on an old Triumph car. The carbs are fine with E10, but the fuel will go 'stale' after a few months. Very difficult to start and runs badly until new fuel gets through.
I always turn off the fuel tap on carburettor motorbikes and run the final half mile or so, to run them as dry as I can. I now know where to turn the taps on each bike, so I run out just as I'm home. At least it empties the jets and pilot circuit. Don't know if that works, but no problems so far after a number of years, having made sure they were clean to start with.
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Dependant on which carbs are fitted, the remote float bowl type you can just take the top off the chamber to have a look in there and see what's really in there regarding bits of anything or water etc.
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Also check the rubber pipe between carbs i have seen one where slivers of rubber came off the inside when fitting and messed up float needles
Yes it’s a Rover P6 2200 TC 1976 it has a AccuSpark Electronic Ignition Performance kit fitted so no points checked carbs took tops off and sprayed carb cleaner in them to clear any blockages and put some three in one oil in the tops checked spark plugs yesterday they were all sooted up one of the plugs the electrode had broken away so will have to replace it as I,ve started to drain all the petrol from the tank as I still think it’s down to the petrol I bought from esso as the car was driving lovely before I filled up with there petrol as I think it’s contaminated with kerosene as someone said on here about another petrol retailer as when I set a light to a little drop of it a lot of black smoke came off it and a very bad smell came off it and yes the Rover is well designed you can unbolt ever panel off it and it’s been well looked after no rot in the usual places only a couple of rust spots one in the boot and two on the rear panel under the rear windscreen what the rear scuttle panel bolts to all the running gear is in good condition thanks
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Am I right in thinking your Rover has twin Stomberg Type Carbs - does E5 & E10 attack the rubber type carb diaphragms or have you changed them to Vitron to resist the Ethanol?
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Oooh no Ted, that was the Triumph motorcar that used those ;D ;D
Said in jest, because the first Range Rover V8 was on Stromberg, apparently for better tolerance of angle, off angle, when typically used on that vehicle.
There was apparently some sensitivity to slide damping on these 4 cylinder Rover engines during development of twin carb setup (hence my question about oil in the dashpot) that caused "flutter" or odd closing of the slide when it should be open.
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Sounds unusual but our old 1275 S had inch and a half SU's that I changed to inch and a half Stromberg's as they were more responsive and easier to get the mixture right iirc it was an Alexander conversion.
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Sounds unusual but our old 1275 S had inch and a half SU's that I changed to inch and a half Stromberg's as they were more responsive and easier to get the mixture right iirc it was an Alexander conversion.
My feeling is that, historically, people went the wrong way with SU in how they work. I trim them with oil viscosity in the damper tube to get acceleration mixture advantageous to response, when many focused on getting the main slide as far open as possible, which drives them lean just when they dont need it.
Thicker oil viscosity delays the slide lift, increasing vacuum, making them richer for transient throttle opening....really livens up the torque on them, but without having to go richer on overall jetting.
They also need very, very short wide radius intake profile and never "trumpet" type bellmouth arrangement, think the Rover TC setup does do this as std, as they flow as much air as next bore size up like this, in comparison to long intake equivalent.
There was very good description in CCC mag years ago researchiing these flow characteristics.
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My best mate & I who had a similar Mini tried all sorts, 3 in1 oil, brake fluid, Redex UCL etc in the end we used Duckhams 20/50 green engine oil.
Happy days back then. ;D ;D ;D
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52698456418_4b0fb4ef27_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ohMn7b)PICT0340 (https://flic.kr/p/2ohMn7b) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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EP 90 really makes them "jump" it's like having an accelerator pump system, ran it for different setup on a dyno with V8 Rover, A/F ratio checking to see what it was doing.
You can hear when they go lean (most carb really) but the sound really changes on SU as you can hear it sucking but no pace to pickup, that completely disappeared running high viscosity.