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Messages - sim2011
1
« on: August 13, 2010, 04:30:42 PM »
Re Half hearted clouting of impact drivers , just make sure you hid the head of the driver at full whack and not your hand holding it as I did, Ouch, but the screw did come out !
You can also ues a center puch and tap the head round and then inscrew with a small flat blade.
2
« on: August 03, 2010, 10:16:34 PM »
A Big difference My last Modern 750 was a Duke 748R awesome handling, brakes etc now back to a CB750K3 with brakes and handling are comensurate with a bike from 40 years ago , both have their place.
3
« on: July 31, 2010, 07:52:36 PM »
I didnt ride it before the skimmimg, I also have one less tooth on the front sprocket therefore its not a top end bike , more fun I hope.
Pete
I did get depressed for about 30 mins then thought lets do it ! it only takes about 1 hour to get the lump out then about 1 hour to strip the top end down, then ages to clean all the base gasket off properly.
I've done a total resto on this one in my spare time in less than 3 months so it can be done ( even with 1 wife & 3 kids)
I'll keep everyone posted with its progress, next is My Suzuki GT550 which I have already stripped down , Crank is at SEP in Kegworth who also skimmed my head and barrels (proper Mc engineering company)
Thanks again to everyone I hope this will help others.
Si
4
« on: July 30, 2010, 04:08:41 PM »
Well just done 10 miles and all seems well on the leak front  I need to do a longer run just to be sure , the front end feels a bit stiff new seals and oil , so I will monitor that as well. Many thanks to everyones input , I think I can conclude that using some form of sealant is a must on the head gasket. Thanks Simon K3 (No Leaks)
5
« on: July 29, 2010, 06:21:02 PM »
I'm using Fuchs Silkolene SAE 10 in my 750K3 , it should be back on the road tommorow so I'll let you know what it behaves like.
6
« on: July 29, 2010, 06:17:13 PM »
Moment of truth is looming !! Engine back in and should be able to fire it up tonight, I'll keep you all posted.
Si (Nearly running K3)
7
« on: July 25, 2010, 12:54:39 PM »
Hi
According to Mark Paris's book a skim of .010" (0.25mm) is fine on the K3 as they had 1mm more deck height than the K0-K2 engines , I cant see that .5mm will make any diference to cam chain tension.
Any way just reasemmbled the engine this morning, I will recheck head bolt torque later on today.
I opted for Blue Hylor for both the base and head gaskets after checking their site its perfectly ok for High temp.
Just a thin smear was used both sides.
Next report will be later this week when I get a helping hand to put the lump back in.
Thanks for everyones input.
Simon
8
« on: July 23, 2010, 01:17:39 PM »
To all
Quick update, I've just collected the barrells & Head from SEP and they have skimmed both.
The head was warped and the barrels had a slight dip in the middle.
So now I have
New Honda gaskets
Flat metal surfaces.
I am going to use sealant just havent decided yet on Blue Hylomar or clear silicone.
I'll keep everyone posted .
The new Honda head gasket does not have copper rings
Thanks for everyones input.
Si
9
« on: July 21, 2010, 11:17:13 AM »
All
Thanks for the input , I have just been looking at the parts manual fiches and the K2 US head gasket clearly shows rings of some sort around the holes so these will be the copper ones in my pic , my guess is that they used this on mine as its a Dec1972 build date.
10
« on: July 20, 2010, 09:35:12 PM »
Update
I've taken the head and barrells of to SEP to be checked out so I'll let you know what they find.
I managed to find the original Honda head gasket and its mighty different to what Honda supply today See pics , the 1973 one also had gasket sealant around the cam chain tunnel the 2010 one doesn't !! The 2010 one is also bereft of those copper sealing rings .
Also I have noticed that on the 73 version all other holes (not the copper Ones) have the same sealant applied as the can chain tunell
Any thoughts on this will be welcomed.
11
« on: July 17, 2010, 05:40:01 PM »
Hi Brian
The whole head gasket was dripping with oil almost like that both o rings were not sealing i have checked that the head mates with the cylinder with both dowels in and everything is fine.
Look at the pic below
12
« on: July 16, 2010, 10:57:10 PM »
Hi
Yes 2 sets of 2
2 at the bottom of the barrells and 2 between barrels and head and they are the same height,
I have checked that these dont interfere with anything
I still think its got something to do with gasket and o ring thickness
Thanks
Simon
13
« on: July 15, 2010, 05:01:28 PM »
Hi
The Genuine Honda Head Gasket turned up Pt No 12251 - 300 - 307
This measures 1.15 (pattern measured 1.16) so it aint that
The new O rings measure 2.44 the new old ones measured 2.36 after being torqued down.
The only thing I can assume is that the Genuine Honda gasket might squash down more when its been torqued down ?
The New Head gasket does not have any sealant on it at all ( unlike the F2 one )
This leaves with a bit of a headache
Do I use Silicone sparingly on the O rings ?
Do I use sealant around the cam chain and oil feed holes on the Graphite gasket ?
If So what does anyone recomend ?
Answers on a post card to mr confused
14
« on: July 12, 2010, 09:36:55 PM »
Hi Seamus
You are both wright and wrong , the eraly K3 had this set and the later ones Dowels with rubber seals, my bike is a very early K3 produced December 1972 for Jan 73 launch.
My engine has never been apart and I took plenty of photos when stripping it down.
Thanks
Simon
15
« on: July 12, 2010, 09:26:08 PM »
Right
Took the follwing measurements
David Silver supplied Pattern Head gasket 1.16mm
Honda Genuine O rings 2.36mm CMS Parts fiche states as 2.5mm but mine have been torqued down
Cylinder Counterbore depth .93mm
That leaves just .27mm to seal
I will post again when the genuine head gasket and new o rings arrive.
Thanks
Simon
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