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Messages - Mike_Berkshire
1
« on: Today at 05:52:31 PM »
A great tip Ted; thanks. I used the handle of our patio broom, banged 2 panel pins into it about 5mm apart, cut the heads off and dropped it down the tube. With one nail either side of the roll pin in the damper, the fork leg in the vise and the head of the broom stopping rotation I got it out no trouble. I have discovered that ancient fork oil smells not unlike sewage too. Onwards to the next challenge.
2
« on: Today at 04:54:52 PM »
Thanks for the suggestion. The spring is out so will look for a suitable piece of wood and have another go.
3
« on: Today at 03:14:22 PM »
Thanks to all the tips on decarbing the valves they are all now cleaned up and shortly i will get to grinding them in on the sparkly clean head. I decided to do some work on the forks next. I read the manual (Haynes) and watched a couple of YouTube tutorials and all seemed fairly straightforward. I followed the steps draining the oil, pre-loosening the bottom Allen screw, removing the top 22mm fap and the spring but, I cannot now get the Allen screw out of the bottom of the fork leg to relase leg form top tube. The bolt just spins around; I assume it screws into the bottom of the damper tube which is rotating with the screw. I have tried pulling on the chrome fork tube, pushing on it to create some tension but no joy. Have I approached this incorrectly or is there a knack to this that I havent discovered? Any advice would be very welcome. Mike
4
« on: May 15, 2024, 03:49:43 PM »
Call me a vandal - I put my valve in an electric drill using an old screwdriver holding it as a cutting tool. I kept away from the vet edges then finished the job with 400 grit Wet & Dry.
That’s quite reassuring Ted. I will continue Dremelling for now then. You don’t say if the bike ran or not after you did this though; I assume it did :-)
5
« on: May 15, 2024, 01:56:34 PM »
So de-carbonising the inlet valves was easy. The exhaust valves less so. The deposits on the valve face & stem are like concrete. I am assuming this is normal (?) Are there recommended ways of removing the deposits from the exhaust valves? As the crust is so hard Im worried about damaging the valves. I have been using a Dremel clone with softish Scotchbrite mini-mops.
6
« on: May 15, 2024, 01:52:37 PM »
PM me your address and i will send you a used one
Thank you so much Bryan. I have sent you a PM.
7
« on: May 15, 2024, 11:47:04 AM »
Thanks all so far with the help in my initial steps with this project: rebuilding the carbs to get the bike running pre-stripdown, removal of the stuck rocker cover, knocking out the shock mounts from the swinging arm, removal of the steering races and identification of mystery parts along the way. The bike is now stripped down apart from the bottom end which Im intending to leave intact and, so far the wheels are still 'bearings in'. The first outside job of repainting the frame, swinging arm and various other brackets etc should start tomorrow.
Whilst Im waiting for the frame painting I am getting on with the head. All valves etc are out, the head is decarboned and Im now decarboning the valves pre to lapping them in. Whilst working on the inlet valve for #2 cyclinder I can see there is damage/an imperfection in the valve face (see picture). Should this valve be replaced with a new one and if so is it OK to replace one valve only? I have checked piston #2 and there is no sign of any impact damage on the piston. Also there is a single valve collet hiding somehwere on the floor of the shed which Im hoping to find but is so far proving elusive. Thanks, Mike
8
« on: May 12, 2024, 12:52:18 PM »
I assume the cushion is for them to sit on whilst observing the fettling?
9
« on: May 12, 2024, 11:46:25 AM »
Well I dont think my 5/8 socket is ever going to be the same but they're out!
10
« on: May 11, 2024, 04:13:17 PM »
Thanks for all the input and suggestions. I will tap out the brake bit and the bearing cups and whilst Im at it will have a go at the shock bushes and see how bonded in they are. I will get a kit of the old-style ball bearings and races as if it worked for nigh on 50 years then thats going to see me out. Mike
11
« on: May 11, 2024, 01:33:21 PM »
Thanks Bryan. I can see how to remove the other parts apart from the rear brake pivot arm; does the rear brake pivot arm just knock out? I cant see a circlip or anything holding it in but dont want to start bashing it unless Im sure. Also, once the old-style ball races are out of the steering tube, is it worthwhile replacing with a set of taper bearings/races in your opinion or would you stick with the ball races? Thanks again.
12
« on: May 11, 2024, 01:10:14 PM »
The swinging arm bushes are removed and I have a new set of brass ones from Julie to fit after paint (ensuring no paint on outside edge of swingarm tube). Its the bushes for the lower mount of the shock absorbers that are still in place on the swingarm plus the pivot arm for the rear brake and the bearing cups for the headstock in the main frame.
13
« on: May 11, 2024, 09:24:01 AM »
Hi all. I have stripped the bike and the next task is the repainting of the frame and swinging arm. I am taking it to a local stove enameller that does bikes and will do the masking. I have removed all brackets, grommets, rubbers, stands, springs and fasteners etc. Only parts still in/on the frame are the rear brake pivot linkage, head bearing cups and shock absorber bushes. Do these all need to be removed too and if so any tips for their removal? Thanks
14
« on: May 09, 2024, 09:54:42 PM »
I have this task coming up in a month or two. There I was thinking I just screw everything back together and job’s a goodun! Another learning opportunity looms. I suspect I will be re-reading this thread carefully. Thanks for starting it Ted.
15
« on: May 04, 2024, 09:19:12 PM »
No matter what set you need thicker O rings at the headgasket than those in the set
Does this apply to all gasket sets Bryan or just relating to this particular model? I will be putting the top end back together on my CB550 in the next month or 2 and it would be good know if I’m going to need to source some different O rings.
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