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Messages - Johnwebley
1
« on: Today at 02:59:02 PM »
Extremely doubtful
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2
« on: April 26, 2024, 05:19:06 PM »
Could I suggest something I do,
Take the bike for a run about 15 to 20 miles get it nice and warm
When home, keep the engine running, put on centre stand
Get your long screw driver
Now ,turn one airscrew a quarter turn out,
Check what happens, blip the throttle, OK?
If it struggles,turn to previous settings
But if its OK,do another, repeat, and check
Remember, Modern fuel is different than 50years ago,
It might like a leaner tickover
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3
« on: April 26, 2024, 03:57:00 PM »
Can I suggest when you fit the replacement, make sure you don't over tighten it,
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4
« on: April 26, 2024, 08:27:48 AM »
I have a thought, the joints and the splines on the shaft drive,
I know a friend that had a K brick had issues
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5
« on: April 25, 2024, 08:53:01 AM »
Back in the 80s
I also used Champion A8Y
Definitely a projecting nose plug,
The bike ran well, but they became difficult to get
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6
« on: April 24, 2024, 04:35:20 PM »
Check for the washer between the spring and the oil filter. Often stuck to the oil filter and often accidentally binned. I have 3 engines here and none of them had the washer.
BTW mine are 400s, I imagine yours has a similar washer.
Yes, the 500 has them Fit between filter and spring Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk
7
« on: April 24, 2024, 03:59:22 PM »
Good for you,
The idea of the small head, is to stop it being tightened to much,
I also grease the O ring under the head to prevent it sticking/corroding
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8
« on: April 23, 2024, 05:18:55 PM »
Actually, I run Denso x24ea-u
I believe that the are equivalent to the D 8ea
A d7ea is normal for the 500
The 8s are for 400,750 etc
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9
« on: April 23, 2024, 03:15:15 PM »
I dispute this,
My 500 has no issue
In fact, I use a harder plug than reccomended, an 8 instead of a 7 ,
I have checked the tickover mixture, and my airscrews are turned out more than normal,
I also have Boyer ignition, and run the plug gaps at 33thou,
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10
« on: April 23, 2024, 08:24:45 AM »
Im planning to lift the 550 engine out of the frame at the weekend and intended to take off the Oil Filter housing to make removal from the frame easier. The bolt on the oil filter housing looks horrendous, no flats left and I doubt a smaller socket tapped onto it would grip. I can probably get my large Molegrips on it but before I go down that route are there any tips for tackling this? I have given it a good squirt of WD and left it to soak in. Thanks
What a beaut! Good luck Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk
11
« on: April 21, 2024, 10:08:24 AM »
12
« on: April 19, 2024, 02:38:39 PM »
It's over 25 years old, and low usage
Try Peter James with classic,
They can only say no
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13
« on: April 17, 2024, 06:53:17 PM »
Out at Drum and Monkey, upton on Severn
Sunny, cold wind and did I say nippy?
 
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Later it got busy And no No ice cream for me  Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk
14
« on: April 17, 2024, 05:58:48 PM »
Out at Drum and Monkey, upton on Severn Sunny, cold wind and did I say nippy? Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk
15
« on: April 14, 2024, 09:13:30 PM »
The system on the sohc is very simple,
David Silver does a complete replacement master cylinder for less than £40 I seem to remember,
The caliper will possibly need a new seal,also check, and if corroded replace the caliper piston,
Also check the hoses for cracks and splits,
That covers the hydraulic section,
The only other thing is make sure the alloy arm that the caliper mounts on ,the swivel is free for it to move,
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