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Messages - pptom
1
« on: May 10, 2014, 10:45:19 AM »
Just read that Ewan, thanks very much - coming to an auction site near you soon...
2
« on: May 08, 2014, 09:30:12 PM »
He might be along soon.... As for the stainless bolts - I know it can be a much discussed subject and don't want it to become the subject of this thread but my reasoning was that lots of modern bikes use 6 x m6 bolts to secure the brake discs, these are m8 and they aren't subject to anywhere near the braking forces that modern brakes produce. I think it would be one hell of a shear force to break 6 x 8mm bolts, plus there is the resistance to corrosion etc. Good enough for an aprilia rsv4, so it's good enough for me http://www.pro-bolt.com/stainless-steel-disc-bolt-duca-ti-aprilia-m8-x-20m-fl-head.html#.U2vqgSe9KSM
3
« on: May 08, 2014, 08:03:27 PM »
Very interested to know the answer to this too. The second disc setup I recently sold also has the same problem.
I removed it from a mates non running '77 550, so it either had a front end swap at some point or it was a model change.
I believe the disc is the correct 550 size, but caliper and bracket do not match with the new owners forks.
4
« on: February 19, 2014, 12:38:12 PM »
I went from the higher US bars to UK type. They weren't as high / curved / apey! as yours though.
Mine was a US bike, the longer brake hose still works ok - i had to loosen the banjo and change the angle a bit.
Clutch cable needs shortening to be honest as it now has a tighter bend and is a little stiffer.
Throttle cable is fine.
Only pain in the backside was the switch wiring - fortunately the throttle side was already routed out of the bars, but the clutch side was internally routed, so that had to be re-done - you may also need to drill a hole or two in the bars for a location stub on one of the brackets (can't remember which one).
Made a major difference riding my bike - i felt more connected to the front end.
5
« on: December 23, 2013, 08:01:54 AM »
I'm with Footman James too. 5 bikes on the policy (2 x modern), just before renewal in the summer a previous owners club membership ran out - renewal price was about £350 (and they wouldn't even think about insuring my KTM as it was high theft risk). Joined the Triumph owners club for £20 and renewal dropped to £190, KTM included no problem?!?!?
Well worth checking which owners clubs they recognise and joining one for double benefits of owners club perks and a hefty discount.
6
« on: October 15, 2013, 05:40:03 PM »
Little bit of an update:
New suspension went in front and rear (end of july) - improvement, but still didn't feel right, especially the front end which was following every little blemish in the road, it felt dangerous - from that point I knew I had to change the tyres.
I installed the Bronze swingarm bushes last week (dead easy really) and a new set of tyres (Avon Roadriders) Just been out for a run and I can say the bikes handling is back to how I expect a bike to handle. The swingarm bushes may have helped a little, but I would say 95% of the improvement is with the tyres. I've opted for a 3.25 front and 4.0 rear. Only done about 20 miles and still running the shine off of them, but I'm happy.
The moral of the story: don't buy Continental supertwin tyres
Just got to sort the dodgy carbs now...
Nearly there, but I can't see me doing much more riding until well into next year - I've declared winter!
7
« on: September 03, 2013, 05:46:40 PM »
I would think an exhaust change would make the bike run lean if anything, what size are your main jets? are the floats sticking open allowing too much fuel in? did you set them correctly? needle jets too small? rubber O rings good fit on the main jets?
Can't think of much else - generally 'mods' will make the engine run more lean.
8
« on: August 21, 2013, 10:19:01 PM »
Leave the race on for powdercoating / blasting to protect the metal underneath (although you will still have to deal with the grease - especially in the seal), to remove, just tap a flat bladed screwdriver in the gap underneath - between the rubber seal and race and work your way around, gradually levering it up - you only have to displace them about 5mm before they ping off.
9
« on: August 21, 2013, 07:22:42 PM »
I always blank off the steering head when sending for powder - however, I've had the problem mentioned with grease 'melting' out and affecting the coating on the outside. - didn't clean it thoroughly enough.
My masking method is to use a long piece of threaded bar through the head then bolt on a flat plate at each end which will cover the holes. I'm always fairly meticulous masking for powercoating - i do everything before taking it in - sacrificial bolts in threads and duck tape over anything else that doesn't want doing (the coater replaces this after blasting with something else that will take the heat of the powder oven - sometimes!) - our local coater is 'ok', but I've learnt not to trust anyone to anything that you could do better yourself.
10
« on: August 10, 2013, 06:03:00 PM »
He's still going mate, still got the shop - must be near retirement age now, but I asked him about rebuilding my Dommie 99 gearbox about 3 months ago and he said it would be after Christmas till he got round to it as he was so busy.
He's always got plenty on - recently Peter Williams has announced that he's putting together a run of new bikes and Mick is doing the engines and boxes for these (15 I think), so i wouldn't think he'll be quick.
I rebuilt my Dominator engine last year after the camshaft woodruff key sheared (no damage luckily) I used one of Micks engine rebuild DVD's and it was a pretty easy process really, you're more than welcome to borrow it if you fancy? He also does a gearbox DVD.
I also use the same machine shop that he does for all of my engine work, so they're pretty clued up on Norton stuff - I'll happily drop anything to them if you like.
11
« on: August 09, 2013, 12:58:36 PM »
I was told not to use EP in old boxes as at will damage the bronze bearings - i think it was one of those rumours going around.
Went into our local Norton experts shop (Mick Hemmings - google him - works on them and raced them for years + is a bit of a gearbox expert) and all he sells is modern EP, so I thought if its good enough for him.....
I ran it in my rebuilt T100a engine with no problems. And you can easily get it from Halfords, that stuff will be fine.
Tom
12
« on: August 08, 2013, 06:34:34 PM »
Just put those exact pads on and got some really grotty fluid out, gave it a real good flush - oh well, I'll see how they ride - can't be too much worse.
EBC are great in Northampton, its their UK distribution base and they also have a small trade counter in town - I can get pretty much any EBC part within a couple of hours and the price is not too shabby either - saves paying and waiting for Royal Mail.
Was thinking about the roadriders until i read that lots of people suffered from very premature side wall cracking - how are yours?
13
« on: August 08, 2013, 01:32:21 PM »
Thanks chaps, just picked up the new brake pads and got another trade card bargain from Halfords - Brake Fluid - £7.50 on the shelf - £1.90 to me  Greased the swinging arm the other week, will still fit the new bushes - just gives me a chance to get my bike fix in the winter - I trade riding for maintaining, can't keep still at night, I'd much rather be in the garage working than sat watching the telly.
14
« on: August 08, 2013, 09:21:38 AM »
Well, here it is:    135 miles on the clock so far, I've put new Hagon shocks on and their progressive springs, also fitted some low rise bars last night, courtesy of Busa, which make me feel a little more connected with the front end. Removed the mirrors also - I'm used to riding without them and i think the bike looks better. Don't those pipes sound awesome!! I had a problem with the bike running very weak (poss on 3) after getting into the higher rev range, also throttle response was a bit random - thought it was a fuelling thing, maybe picking up some dirt out of the tank so cleaned out the bowls but it made no odds, ordered a new carb o ring kit with the view to stripping and cleaning them, but in the meantime chucked in some new plugs (£6 for 4 from Halfords with my trade card) and the problem is sorted! the old ones must have been breaking down. Things still to sort are: Tyres - the front is particuarly bad, in fact the worst tyre I've ever rode, horrible - its a Conti 'super twin' ribbed. It tramlines really badly and i don't like the profile, so i'm planning a new pair of BT45's in the next few weeks Front brake is also pretty poor - I've had better drums - might pick up some new pads and fluid today from the local EBC trade counter - that should sort it - also there is pretty minimal lever pull - is that normal? Laquer - don't know what the stuff is on the tank, but i had an issue the other week when i wiped a bit of it with a cloth that had brake cleaner on - immediately melted the Laquer, which i left for a day or so to re-harden, before wet sanding and polishing which restored it, last weekend i managed to splash a little fuel when filling up and got the same reaction, so it looks like i'll have to re-laquer the tank with some petrol proof stuff - my worry is that the new stuff will react with the old so I'll have to do a test piece underneath first Swingarm bearings - I don't think they are that bad, minimal movement in the arm, but i gather there should be none at all - got some bronze bushes from Germany, but i think that will be a winter job, along with a full carb clean.
15
« on: July 24, 2013, 06:53:55 PM »
The plot thickens!
New OEM seals arrived today from Silvers, i was told the Hagon order would too, but no joy - anyway, stripped the forks and changed the seals in readiness for the springs - total oil quantity was around 300ml from both legs and it was 'fairly' clean ATF that came out. The springs however are already progressive - I have no idea if they are the right springs though until I can compare them to the new ones that I'll be fitting, total free length of the old ones 465mm - obviously longer than stock. They might be going on e-bay soon - or, if they look and measure the same as the Hagons I'll offer them up on here.
Checked the head race too and its tapered, now readjusted.
Can't wait to get out on it now! hopefully be ready for a spin tomorrow evening.
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