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Messages - royhall
1
« on: August 01, 2024, 07:43:36 PM »
Unfortunately the Mikuni kits are about £475 including delivery. If they had been £175 they would be on the bike now. Also, they only fit K1 onwards and not K0 so you have to pay another £45 plus delivery for cranked pod filters to fit behind the bomber side panels. So they really are a last resort that I'm hoping I won't need.
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2
« on: August 01, 2024, 07:34:08 AM »
Don't think T500 carbs are easy to get. I had a T500 some years ago that had snowmobile carbs fitted. I decided to fit the correct carbs but couldn't find any decent ones. Strangely, it ran great with the snowmobile carbs fitted it was just the airbox didn't fit correctly. As I was still in engineering then I made up some spacers, that sorted the problem. Wish I hadn't sold that bike, they are worth strong money now.
3
« on: July 31, 2024, 09:46:16 PM »
I think that explanation is spot on, and may explain some of the reluctance to return to tick over issues as well. In this case the CV carbs do have a choke plate mechanism on the intake side. I find it's only required for initial cold start, and as soon as the engine fires it needs to go fully off. For some reason these carbs have a tendency to go rich at the slightest provocation. If it doesn't work this time I am going to buy a Mikuni conversion kit with cranked pod filters. Apparently it's like a magic bullet for Bombers.
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4
« on: July 31, 2024, 04:27:26 PM »
No. I took the side panel off again and had a close look with a mirror on a stick and a good light. It appears that there is a passage for air all around the filter, it just doesn't look like it without a really close look. Once warmed up I gave it a bit of throttle to about 7000rpm and it ran cleanly with zero hesitation. Got to be careful as 4 years on it's not run in.
The engine sounds good with no rattles or knocks, so far no oil or petrol leaks either. I now need to get a few hundred miles on it then see what the oils like. Last time I drained the oil it was way above the max mark and smelled of stale petrol, it also ran out of the drain plug like water. Severe petrol bore washing.
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5
« on: July 31, 2024, 03:26:52 PM »
I ran the bike today for about 9 miles. It ran very well indeed so looks like I'm getting there. Looking at the plugs afterwards they are still black but it looks like burnt oil rather than soot. It's probably not done 100 miles yet so the rings are still bedding in, plus it's been stood for a good while. The white smoke from the exhausts has also now stopped so it does look like it's leened out a bit now. Time to give it some use and see how it goes.
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6
« on: July 30, 2024, 06:47:55 PM »
Been recently having a play with the Black Bomber trying to get it to run lean instead of burning the plugs black and bore washing the cylinders. I cant believe it's 4 years since I finished this project and I still haven't got it right. It got itself dumped in the back of the garage for a while as it was peeing me off.
I have tried 500T carbs and 450K3 carbs all of which ran very rich. I decided it must be the silly expensive pattern air filters at fault, so have gutted out the folded paper element and replaced it with oiled foam. They were really restrictive as you cant even breath air through a single piece of the old element, it's like cardboard (usual crap quality pattern parts). That done, I have refurbished the original 14C carbs that were meant to be on a Bomber with the help of a few parts supplied by Ash. Fitted the carbs and refurbed air filters this afternoon and things appear to have improved some.
Unfortunately I have noticed another issue that I hadn't seen before. When fitting the plastic air filter boxes that have the rubber inlet fitted, only about a quarter of the air filter is being used as the rubber intake blocks the rest. So about three quarters of the air filter is breathing through a 1/4" hole, that cant be right. Can somebody with a Bomber please have a look if it's the same on yours. I may possibly run it without the plastic cover fitted as I think it's just a noise suppressor. That will allow the engine to breath through 100% of the filter element. Am going to give it a 10 mile run tomorrow and see what pans out. I can feel a dump it in the back of the garage moment coming on again.
7
« on: June 21, 2024, 07:36:08 AM »
You are correct Ted. Always get there in the end though. I have a feeling that I'm nearly there.
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8
« on: June 21, 2024, 06:18:24 AM »
Your at the worst part of the project Ted.
During the build your trying to do everything perfectly. After first fire up it usually becomes clear that more work is needed and it is demotivating.
You just need to accept that there is no such thing as perfection and getting a half century old bike to behave itself is not easy. More work is almost always required, you just have to take a few days break from it, then get stuck in and sort it.
You will get there in the end.
I have a bike I finished 3 years ago and it's still not run-in as I'm struggling with carburation issues.
Best of luck mate.
9
« on: June 14, 2024, 06:28:12 PM »
I have found that it's almost impossible to set the carbs correctly even with ports and vacuum gauges. The tick-over pressures are a way off if you want stable running at 1000rpm. If I try to balance it I get the exact same deal you described, slow getting back to tick-over speed. The pressures are fairly close at faster running. I'm beginning to suspect a problem with the air filters, after all they are (expensive) pattern parts so they are probably crap. I also still have sooty black plugs (again could be air filters). I'm thinking of checking pressures with the filters off and maybe some free flowing pods. I'm getting close to ordering a Mikuni conversion to be honest as it's not really usable as it is. Still got the above things to try, plus the original 14C's to finish building and try yet. Need to buy some enthusiasm for doing it.
10
« on: June 12, 2024, 07:33:49 PM »
Sounds like your carb balance is off. Tricky thing to sort on a bomber as there's no vacuum ports to connect gauges to. I have drilled mine into the alloy in front of the carbs and fitted permanent connectors with blanking caps but it's still tricky to set. Try raising the tick over on the left and lowering it on the right to even it out. Don't worry about the popping on overrun they all do that but getting the balance better will help stop it.
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11
« on: May 27, 2024, 12:02:01 PM »
That's what they are best at Johnny, short trips around town. Sounds like an EV is perfect for you. If you do the odd long road trip you can always borrow/hire a car.
12
« on: May 21, 2024, 06:26:54 PM »
Just checked the original needles that were in the carbs when I got them and they are the same as the upgrade needles. Must have already had the fix.
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13
« on: May 21, 2024, 04:21:56 PM »
When I get a chance I will check the upgrade parts against the standard parts and see what the difference is.
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14
« on: May 21, 2024, 04:19:10 PM »
I know what you mean Ash, but they do appear to be good quality. As with the rubber bits they may dissolve when you oil the chain though. Actually their piston kits are very high quality.
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15
« on: May 21, 2024, 09:50:44 AM »
Just checked the carb parts, Ash's upgrade kit versus Cruzinimage K0 set. The needles mike up differently but are the same length, the drillings in the emulsion tubes are a different pattern and possibly different hole sizes. I am going to ultrasonic clean the upgrade parts and use them in the 14C build. I have a pair of rebuilt 14H on the bike at the moment but I still think it's running rich. Not really had chance to take it out recently so I could be wrong. Just waiting for some floats to rebuild the 14C then I will know for sure.
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