Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => Project Board => Topic started by: magpie114 on October 24, 2023, 09:09:13 PM
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Despite stating in my new member intro thread that I was looking for a 750 to restore, I’ve ended up getting a CB350F (American import) instead. There was a post about it on this forum
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,29772.0.html
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Its obviously been stood for a long time and there’s a lot of surface rust but everything is solid. The tank has a couple of shallow dents but looks good internally. The mudguards have fine pitting but are free of dents and should be ok for stripping and replating. I was surprised to find the owners manual under the seat, unfortunately without its cover (I get the impression the manuals are rare and I’ve scanned it if anyone wants a copy). The first thing I noticed when sitting on it was the relatively high bars. My VFR400 is too low but this is very upright for me and it seems the bars fitted to the European model are a little lower? Anyway that’s some way off yet. The pipes are not going back on!
The frame and other parts have gone for powder coating today and and I’ve made a start on the engine. The pistons have a lot of carbon deposits. The exhaust valve in cylinder 4 was very slightly stuck open and the top ring in cylinder 3 had seized in the piston.
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A couple of the bores have very slight rusting in places - photo actually makes it look worse than it is. There was nothing worrying in the sump.
The only problem I’ve had so far during disassembly was the oil filter bolt, ridiculously overtightened. The bolt already had slightly rounded edges and would not move. Eventually ended up rounding the bolt head. I drilled thro the head and tried using my largest stud extractor but gave up at the point where I was convinced it would snap. The only remaining option then was to drill with a 20mm bit to remove the head and part of the flange. This allowed me to withdraw the housing and unscrew the remainder of the bolt. Unfortunately I caught the housing which will now need remedial work.
Reading Nurse Julie’s and Royhall’s build threads has been great preparation for splitting the cases hopefully this week. No doubt as well as a rebore and pistons, some big end and main bearing shells will be needed. I’d welcome any advice as to which ones I can reuse.
Alan
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High handle bars are standard on all USA model CBSOHC/4's. EU and UK model bars are lower, but we never got the CB350/4's in the UK model range.
Good luck with your project.
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One of the ways when I was in the trade to remove bolts like that was to use a cold chisel, position it along the edge at a slight angle, hit it hard, you want to cut into the flange at an angle that every time you hit it it tries to drive the bolt in the unscrewing direction. The combination of the shock to the bolt and the massive amount of sideways force being applied usually did the trick. If the slot you were cutting failed you’d just cut another.
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Hi Alan,
Glad it went to a good home! You seem to be well on the way already and I'm sure the oil filter housing would be re-claimable with a turned 'top hat' bush pressed in but if it isn't, then I have one here - they are different (longer) than 400/4. Are you sure it needs a rebore? Unless you intend commuting daily up and down the M74, you might get away with glaze busting and new rings - careful measurements will soon indicate the best path.
Here's a bit about my own 350/4 journey:
http://www.stallard-engineering.co.uk/stories/Bikes/Japanese/350four.htm
I have a few bits and pieces in the toy cupboard - shout if you need anything
Ian
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Interesting read, I look forward to reading your progress.
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Thanks Ian for the information, its a big help. I like your rig setup and will use it as a model. I'm sure I can recover the oil filter housing but thanks for your offer.
Thinking about it you are probably right about the rebore. I've been busy labelling and bagging parts but I made a few quick measurements as a guide. I don't have any means to measure the bores but the pistons and ring gaps are within service limits. I'll measure them accurately when I've cleaned the pistons up properly. I'm not sure how of the best way to remove the surface rust film/glaze tho'.
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Hi Alan, interesting update on your latest project. I did look at that bike as a potential project, decided to settle for another 550 instead. Nothing horrific revealed which is always good. Keep us posted!
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Hi Alan,
You could try the 'Engine Room' in Motherwell - they ought to be able to accurately measure the bores and if within spec they could probably glaze bust them for you too.
Ian
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Nice project to keep you busy over the winter.
If you haven't found them already, these are available in my Dropbox links.
CB350/400F SHOP MANUAL WORKSHOP
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1n3w5433jkph228/350F%20400F%20_4%20Shop%20Manual.pdf?dl=0
CB350F Parts Manual
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7pieydvznvy7nhp/CB350_F_F1%20Full.pdf?dl=0
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Good tip Ian thanks. I'll give them a try, they're fairly near too.
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Hi Ashimoto
I've already found them thanks - they're a big help. Together with the Clymer manual I feel well prepared.
Alan
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I’ve been distracted by a number of house and car jobs that needed doing but I finally got around to splitting the cases today. I’d removed the sump previously and thought one of the bolts was missing. Now its on the bench I’ve found that the bolt has been overtightened and the head has snapped off. I’ve removed broken studs before but I’m going to farm this out I’m not 100% confident with this one.
Other than that there are no obvious horrors. I’ll carry out a proper inspection in the next few days but so far I know I need to replace the primary chain.
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Thankfully the markings on the crank are clear and the code on the back of the crankcase is B B B B B
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The crankcase shells look generally ok to me apart from number 2 lower and possibly 2 upper which have a score marks although I’d welcome honest opinions.
So if needed I reckon the mains are B3 Black, B2 Brown, B1 Green, B2 Brown, B3 Black and big ends all 2A Yellow.
Hopefully getting the frame and bits back from powder coating this week, will feel like its really underway then. In the meantime I’ll keep chipping away at the cylinder base gasket which is resisting removal.
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Alan these shells look as if there got a bit of life in them yet! I’m not an expert and like you I would be seeking expert info or comments.
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Agree they look good, a few obscure marks as you note for that #2 that you may want to change out of preference.
Reality from those says it's been exceptionally well serviced in regard to oil condition in it's life, they are near exemplary in showing very very minor running in witness marks.
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Those crankshaft codes are so clearly visible it's like a new engine - sure sign of regular oil changes imho.
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Thanks for all your comments, much appreciated. I thought they were ok, but I had a slight nagging doubt. I'll replace #2 tho while I can.
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Can't remember what was recommended for removing old gaskets but might have been Acetone. I'm sure that will remind someone of what it actually was if I'm wrong. Sort of melts the gasket or maybe the bonding agent Honda used.
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I’ve just got some cellulose thinners to try. If that doesn’t work I’ll have a go with acetone.
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Might have been thinners TBH.
I do remember it as being something that dissolved stuff, like thinners does with paint and acetone with expanding foam
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When I did the head gaskets on my GL1200 Aspencade, I tried all kinds of stuff to remove the old gaskets - thinners, acetone, tar and glue remover and ended up with Hermetite gasket remover. This worked very well but it still took a long time soaking and removing. I have had Loctite gasket remover recommended to me recently but not bought any yet.
Ian
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Those cylinder base gaskets really do stick hard as both sides of the gasket are baked hard - I continually brushed thinners on mine to try to make it soak in. I used a hard plastic scraper to lift an edge peice then soaked the new edge in thinners to eventually get small sections to lift. Sometimes an inch or more would come off, then only small sections. If you can rough up the gasket surface that seems to help the thinners soak in.
I did buy some gasket remover off e-bay but it was no better at removing gaskets despite what it said on the tin. I did mine over a period of time as it's boring work eventually reverting to using a loose Stanley knife blade held almost horizontal to the alloy surface to avoid it digging in. With a hand held blade it's easier not to press too hard as the dull end digs into your thumb.
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If you get something like an old woodworking chisel, then grind the end completely flat-square- 90 degrees to give a no blade end. Then gently grind across the end (from one side to the other) in very broad radius (something like dinner plate edge in size) then make sure you've no burr on the edges to ensure no snagging, you've now got a metal scraper that you can lay flat on the gasket surface so that it doesn't cut the surface, but will easily remove the gasket material as you push it.
If the description is too long winded, it should finish by looking like perhaps a two pence piece layed flat on a surface to give you orientation.
Its not an unusual thing to make, but quite ordinary as a metal scraper than would be used in a toolroom for making things like surface plates by hand scraping. If you tip it up to any degree it'll cut the metal surface, but run it flat to gasket face and it'll take nothing off, just the gasket.
Sounds cumbersome, but very effective in use.
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I'll try some gasket remover - either Hermatite or Loctite, whichever I can get first. I've been working on it much like Ted recommends, slowly and a small area at a time with a Stanley blade and yes I've got a very sore thumb!
The scraper sounds logical, I've got an old woodchisel I can sacrifice. I'll try that in combination with the remover.
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The aerosol gasket remover I used was called BONDLOC "formulas that work" it spouts on the tin - trouble is it's Non-Chlorinated & Dichloromethan free - means useless.
It does stick to vertical surfaces though.
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The aerosol gasket remover I used was called BONDLOC "formulas that work" it spouts on the tin - trouble is it's Non-Chlorinated & Dichloromethan free - means useless.
It does stick to vertical surfaces though.
M E K pvc solvent, a useful and more potent cleaning agent is worthwhile trying ;)
Handy to keep some around for variety of task. Check first on plastics though as it'll dissolve some.
Also useful for cleaning gasket contact surfaces of castings etc prior to assembly as its a good degreasent.
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Go to b&q and in the paint section they have plastic handled scrapers with replacable stanley knife blade for about £3
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The trouble with those scrapers is that a hamfisted user like myself repeatedly snags the aluminium. Put a sharp edge on credit card, preferably the wife’s. Warming old gaskets with a hot gun can be helpful….one of those paint stripping types.
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Keep soaking them in petrol and scrape off as they soften. A pain in the arse of a job.
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Well progress has been much slower than I wanted but the frame, stands, brackets etc have now been powder coated and the swing arm phosphor bronze bushes from Julie fitted.
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The VIN plate was damaged and partially detached at the top when I got the bike but its straightened out reasonably well. The damage at the top is more noticeable in the photo.
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I know taper roller head bearings are popular but I had an unhappy time with them on my VFR400. I ended up fitting the stock Honda bearings which were perfect so I’m doing the same again.
Tomorrow I’m taking a pile of nuts and bolts to Able Platers in Livingstone who do small batch barrel zinc plating. They’re very near to a soda blasting company so I’m killing two birds with one stone and taking the cases along. However I’m unsure when I’ll be able to spray them as its far too cold in the shed and garage. Its very frosty at the moment and taking a lot of willpower to work in the garage!
I already have the engine and gearbox oil seals and but am unsure which gasket set brand to use as I’ve read conflicting opinions. I would like to get a genuine Honda head gasket if that tackles the oil weep issue.
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Collected my zinc plated bits and pieces this week and I've sent some fork and shock parts for chrome plating which look like being an 8 week turnaround. Still haven't fully removed the cylinder base gasket but it's currently soaking in WD40 at the moment. I've never come across a gasket as stubborn as this one.
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Also stripped the forks which are in surprisingly good condition to replace the seals. One fork came apart easily but the bottom socket bolt on the other fork refused to move and the Allen drive rounded the socket out. Had to drill thro the to the shank to remove the damper and found a rock hard adhesive or sealant around the head, top threads and copper sealing washer. Fortunately soaking in cellulose thinners softened it and freed the washer.
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I'm going to try industrial strength paint stripper on the crankcases and any brand recommendations would be welcome. First though, in the next day or two, I've got to tackle the sheared sump bolt which I've been putting off, really don't want to get that wrong.
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Synstryp….
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Thanks for the tip, it’s got good reviews online but there seem to be restrictions on its sale. Will try my luck next week
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Thanks for the tip, it’s got good reviews online but there seem to be restrictions on its sale. Will try my luck next week
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If you live near a vehicle trade paint supplier might be worth a visit wearing your dirtiest overalls - it is nasty stuff as you might be aware so ensure you wear the right safety gear.
I used Paramose Industrial bought it on e-bay last year - I just made a sort of declaration about H & S. Seller no longer on e bay as per my previous purchase they seem to move around.
https://refinishsystems.com/product/starchem-synstryp-paint-stripper-5l/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA9ourBhAVEiwA3L5RFpNe4xWef0tTgJdFsZIea4Zt7166Ch4EKV2pxOjfTZL4sCtlzE-4MhoCDQMQAvD_BwE
OR https://www.agwoodcare.co.uk/products/paramosewwstripper/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA9ourBhAVEiwA3L5RFtmyA7unIC74kQv0QpEXxSWTt6necfPiTms7JWXmatgwLiQ04WNX_xoCOYYQAvD_BwE
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Thanks for the info, both links look good, paricularly refinish systems. I've been told of a nearby alloy wheel specialist repairer/powder coater who may have suitable stripping facilities so calling round next week. Given the health and safety aspect that would be ideal but if not then I'll try Refinish.
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Called round first thing this morning to the local car wheel repair shop on the recommendation of a neighbour. Very helpful, confirmed they had a dip tank and were willing to strip the cases which I left with them. Couldn't believe it when I got a call this afternoon to say they were ready to collect. I'm really happy, that's a big time saver. Just got to tackle that broken bolt now.
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That's a seriously impressive turnaround time. I've been quoted THREE months by the vapour blaster I was going to use. Are you going to paint them, if you leave them bare they will corrode, ask me how I know this ::). When I restored the blue 400/4 I had the cases vapour blasted. Apparently, so I've been told, the vapour blasting process leaves a finish on the casting that protects against corrosion. I can confirm in the three years I had the 400 after the restoration the cases showed absolutely no signs of any corrosion anywhere.
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I know I was pleasantly shocked. Its a small company and I might have caught them in a quiet period but he seemed very interested in what I was doing. Good point about corrosion, I'm hoping to sort out soda blasting and painting fairly soon.
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Quite a few unfinished jobs at the moment, forks and shocks are ready to assemble when I get the various bits returned from the chrome platers, probably not until end of January. Cases to paint, but I’m waiting for a warmish spell as its very cold in the garage at the moment. I’ve decided to make a start on the carbs which were filthy but underneath the oil and dirt looked reasonably ok.
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Removing the float bowls revealed lots of varnish. I decided to work on the carbs in pairs and take it slowly as I’m not familiar with them. One carb (#4) came apart easily but #3 throttle slide was stuck solid and was eventually freed using lots of carb cleaner over a couple of days. Jets cleaned up ok in the ultrasonic bath. The float bowls took a bit of work to remove the last traces of varnish.
I started on #1 and #2 yesterday and both are really gummed up, throttle slides and and floats were stuck fast on both. Lots of varnish in both bowls. Interestingly, #1 was the most gummed up, decreasing progressively to #4 which was the least - probably due to how the bike was stored.
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The floats freed up after a few minutes with carb cleaner but the rest will take a little more time. The float pins are stuck fast.
A number of parts will go to the platers for zinc plating this week and I’m hoping I can get them back before the holidays.
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Well the chrome plating came back to my surprise after a little over 2 weeks. I used Ashfords and the results look good. The springs aren't perfect on the insides but I fully expected that. I didn't realise that they subbed work out until I found an old thread on here. The zinc plater I've used has recommended Quality Chrome in Hull.
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The carbs have cleaned up well despite the heavy varnish/tar deposits. I've retained the pilot jet, needle jet and needle but had to the replace main jet float needle + seat and fuel/airscrew with Keyster parts. I found a crack in one of the floats while setting the level so I'll have to wait until after the holidays to order a replacement and complete the assembly. Given its age I'm not going to try repairing it with epoxy.
I got one nos rear damper and paired it with the better of the two originals which has cleaned up well. I've loosely assembled the frame for the time being to save space but will need to take it apart again when I'm ready to install the engine. I'll be doing that on my own so I intend to lay the engine on its side and lower the frame over it. Unfortunately the bracket for the clocks has been powder coated in gloss black - I forgot to ask for it in satin black.
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The fork stanchions were derusted using Evaporust, I'm really surprised they are only partially chrome plated. Will assemble them after the Christmas period...can't see me getting much garage time until then.
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Lovely working there. Look at that shiny bits! Great to see it coming together too.
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I’ve been putting off tackling the broken sump bolt, convinced that it was likely to be in tight and develop into a saga and I’d damage the case. It was in a blind hole and I was worried that the bolt had bottomed out before snapping. However using a left hand drill it was out in under a minute! I’ve used stud extractors before but this is the first time I’ve used a left hand drill - handy bit of kit.
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So my new years resolution is to concentrate solely on preparing and painting the cases. I can then assemble and install the bottom end. The garage is pretty cold at the moment and there’s no sign of the weather improving for some time so I’m thinking of knocking together some sort of paint enclosure which I can heat.
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Very satisfying when it comes out that easy. I bought a cheap tent to erect in the garage makes a nice space easy to heat and can be dismantled afterwards.
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That's an excellent idea Johhny and a Top-Tip. It saves all the hassle of trying to put up sheets of plastic that blow around when the door is open for ventilation and having a base will also prevent dust being raised from the floor.
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Very satisfying when it comes out that easy. I bought a cheap tent to erect in the garage makes a nice space easy to heat and can be dismantled afterwards.
Great idea. I was going to cobble up a frame and plastic sheets. I’ll give this a go.
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I've used a gazebo with sides before. Worked well, but doesn't have a floor/groundsheet, of course.
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I've said this before, don't leave a key in the seat lock, you walk past, catch the key and it either bends or breaks in the lock OR it digs into your leg and ends up cutting you. Either way it's a bugger.
Been there, done that, hence why I keep saying it, lesson learned.
Coming on though.
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Good point. I’d been checking the seat fit and forgot about it.
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Gazebo would be good too Gareth maybe better because you could hang lights from the inner frame.😜
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I’ve finally been able to paint the cases now the cold spell has gone, the garage daytime temperature had been around 0°C for a quite a few days.
I was going to buy a cheap tent to use as a warm paint enclosure but thought I’d first try building one out of a cardboard flat screen tv box and part of a large mountain bike box I had. Once assembled, although a bit Heath Robinson, it warmed up quickly with a fan heater and held the heat very well. So first I ran the garage dehumidifier for a few hours together with a fan heater before warming the enclosure and cases. I gave both cases a mist coat of Simoniz VHT paint followed by 3 coats to give good finish.
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The barrel is currently with Julie and Graham for a rebore and I must get cracking with the head.
Meanwhile I’ve just received my front wheel from Full Circle Wheel Building. Had the hub polished and fitted with stainless steel butted spokes and rim. I’m happy with the service and fast turnaround of 10 days. I’m undecided about tyres but leaning towards a pair of K82s. I’ll be sending the rear hub in a month or so.
Looking ahead I’m undecided about paint. Can’t say I like Candy Bacchus Olive and I much prefer Flake Matador Red and Glory Blue Black Metallic colours. I think Glory Blue Black is the most attractive but I’ll probably keep changing my mind and may even keep the original Bacchus Olive (which I feel I should do). First I need to find a decent R/H headlamp bracket. I’ve been looking out for one for some time but strangely all the right hand ones I’ve seen have been damaged.
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Looking very good 👍.
A tip I was given about choosing a colour was lay the colours out and take away those you really didn't like until you are down to just two remaining where you can't decide. You then toss a coin to decide between them. If for example the choice was between red and blue and heads won the green but you wish it had been the blue that won then blue is the right colour. It has to be an instant reaction not a few seconds later otherwise you are back to square one! Best tip I was given and it works........ usually until someone else gives you their opinion ::)
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Looking very good 👍.
A tip I was given about choosing a colour was lay the colours out and take away those you really didn't like until you are down to just two remaining where you can't decide. You then toss a coin to decide between them. If for example the choice was between red and blue and heads won the green but you wish it had been the blue that won then blue is the right colour. It has to be an instant reaction not a few seconds later otherwise you are back to square one! Best tip I was given and it works........ usually until someone else gives you their opinion ::)
I finally decided to go with Glory Blue Black Metallic or as near a match as possible. I think it was always going to be black!
Dropped the tank, panels and headlight brackets off at Rapier Paintwork in Hull who I've used before and did a great job.
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Decided to fit Dunlop K82 tyres for the classic look and hopefully good grip. It's been a very long time since I've fitted a tyre and I've never found it easy. So I was a bit apprehensive about fitting the front tyre. This time I used a tyre lube instead of soap (which I've used in the past) and also a (new to me) "Bead Buddy". The tyre went on surprisingly quickly and easily. Using the Bead Buddy is like having a third hand I only had to use a tyre lever for the last few inches of the tyre.
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I've assembled the bottom end largely following NJ's thread. The bike has 11000 miles on the clock which I believe is genuine and only had to replace one shell. The primary chain, damper rubbers and obviously the various seals were also replaced. The horseshoe, which I gather can be a common problem, moves freely with no signs of binding or damage. Clutch plates and springs are well within specification. I intended to fit a new cam chain as a matter of course but unfortunately I had problems with the rivet tool. Instead of leaving it I tried to work around it only to ruin the chain. So I ended up fitting the original chain - it's done 11000 miles and I understand life is 30 to 35 thousand miles so I'm not concerned. The oil pump O rings were replaced with viton ones.
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I installed the engine by the frame over engine procedure on my own which was straightforward. The forks and front wheel were temporarily fitted to lift the frame off the floor.
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Next job is to fit my rebored barrels and pistons, received today from Julie/Graham.
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I know it's too late now but, since you had the engine apart, you could have fitted a complete cam chain that wouldn't have needed riveting. You only need to rivet the camchain if you're not splitting the cases. 🤔
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I was putting a heavy duty chain in which needed cutting, that bit went ok it was the riveting that went badly wrong. I was replacing it as a belt and braces approach so its not a disaster other than the loss of a good chain.
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Busy day getting engine ready to fit an endless cam chain which I should have done in the first place after my error. Was initially reluctant to split the cases again but second time around on a clean engine it was quick and easy. Just need to remove the final traces of hondabond from the surfaces tomorrow, had to call it a day as I can almost taste cellulose thinners.
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Also replaced the bearings in the rear hub ready to send to Full Circle Wheelbuilding. This time making sure I drilled the retainer staking out a little deeper this time.
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I had two Groundhog days when assembling my 400 cases - we live & learn.👎👎👍
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The bottom end is back together again and installed in the frame. I've replaced the cam chain, after my blunder, with an endless chain courtesy of Ken. The front engine bolts (M10 x 74) which were missing from the bike are discontinued but got some longer bolts at the Scottish Motorcycle Show yesterday. They will need cutting to length to make sure that they don't hit the oil gallery. Decent show, had a look around the classics displays in the morning but only saw one Honda 4 SOHC, looked quite nice.
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I was going to fit the alternator today but had forgotten that the stator wire connectors were burnt. I can't see any visible signs of damage or deterioration on the stator itself and I've checked the resistance and continuity to ground which are ok. I'll solder new connectors and adjacent wiring which is fairly crispy. Seems from posts on here that the stators are generally reliable. Also one of the screws securing the inner field coil has been butchered and will need drilling out - so not quite sure what's been going on there. I've got an Electrex harness to fit later in place of the original which is showing abuse, wear and tear plus a few "modifications".
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I'm sending the rear hub to Full Circle Wheel Building this week. I've tried to remove the studs from the sprocket to fit into a new one, but they are stuck fast. Going to try again with some heat. I've screwed nuts on the ends to protect the threads but I'm concerned about damaging them as it seems they aren't available.
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Making good progress there. The sprocket studs were pretty well stuck in my hub but they did come out in the end with the application of some WD40 and I left it for a week but kept giving it another spray whenever I was in the garage (daily!).
The 400/4 at the show looks great, there's an owner with class, its a yellow one 8)
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Due to various commitments, progress has been sporadic to say the least but now I’ve got a clear spell and hopefully I can get upto speed.
Today I fitted the pistons and barrels which have been rebored +0.5. The pistons have been individually identified to each cylinder by Trigger. Although I was a little apprehensive about doing it on my own, it was surprisingly easy and straight forward. The bores had been coated in Graphogen and starting with the two central pistons I just took my time to squeeze each ring in turn with my fingers allowing the barrels to slide down. Then I turned the engine to raise the outer pistons a little before repeating the process. Tomorrow I’ll fit the head and camshaft
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I also fitted the powder coated air cleaner/battery box and associated electrics which have cleaned up well. The regulator point gap was 0.3mm as specified. Forward and reverse continuity tests on the rectifier checked out ok.
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The HT leads are in poor condition and one of them can be rotated in the coil so I’m going to see if they are repairable following Ashimoto’s fix.
The sprocket studs were pretty well stuck in my hub but they did come out in the end with the application of some WD40 and I left it for a week but kept giving it another spray whenever I was in the garage (daily!).
The sprocket studs finally did come out after applying more WD40 and some heavy blows with a lump hammer.
I’ve started polishing the clutch cover using a Dremel with the plastic bristles recommended by Ken. The cover was heavily pitted and has started to come up well but needs a little more work. Its strangely boring but addictive at the same time!
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Excellent progress there. The polishing mops are a brilliant piece of kit.
Trigger probably bored your barrel and mine at the same time!
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The before & after photos of the electrics behind the side panel look inpressive - all those now homeless Arachnids good work!
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The before & after photos of the electrics behind the side panel look inpressive - all those now homeless Arachnids good work!
Just spotted a mistake though, I’ve fitted the black regulator cover the wrong way!
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Finally got the cylinder head and cover installed and valve clearances set. Unfortunately when I initially started to fit the head I found the original cylinder/head dowels were slightly deformed and far too tight in the cylinder as I tried to fit them. I’d forgotten that one of them in particular took an awful lot of effort to remove during disassembly and so I had to send for new cylinder/head dowels. Better to do it right but it was a frustrating wait. I now need to cleanup and polish the tappet and crankcase caps, can’t say that I’m looking forward to that job!
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I think I’ve got the harness routing figured out and I now need to decide whether to try and fix the original coils (Ashe's fix) or replace with after market versions - not sure which way to go yet. The chrome on the horn is fairly good and doesn’t need replating so I’ve assembled that with the ignition switch and bracket (thanks Ian) in place of the handlebar mount that came with the bike. The left hand handlebar switch has cleaned up ok but the right hand switch has beat me so I’ve ordered an aftermarket version from DSS.
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Phil at Full Circle Wheel Building emailed this morning to say that he would build the rear wheel tomorrow morning and hopefully I’ll get that back on Friday.
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Excellent progress.
I sympathise with you about all the last minute hold ups though. I went to fit the rear shocks on my 400/4 yesterday in readiness to lift the frame over the completed engine only to find the 10mm threads in the lower shock mounts are 1.25 pitch and normal 10mm 1.5 pitch thread are obviously too big! Trying to find stainless 10mm bolts with 1.25 pitch was a pia. I found some in the end but they were £7.28 EACH! And I thought Honda bolts were expensive!
Good luck with the rear wheel, once in at least you will be able to move it around👍.
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Standard stainless not a good idea in high stress positions
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Standard stainless not a good idea in high stress positions
Good point Bryan. I'll get some Honda items from HGB. I'll frame the two stainless ones considering they were so expensive.
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The rear mudguard, grab rail and some fittings have gone to Ashford Chroming who have quoted an 8 week turnaround which isn't too bad. Can't make my mind up whether to have the front mudguard replated as well or get an aftermarket replacement as it’s probably going to be more cost effective. However I’m not convinced that the aftermarket items will be to the same standard as a replated original mudguard.
My rear wheel arrived on Friday from Full Circle Wheel Building and I’ve put a K82 on, just waiting for the sprocket and brake plates which are at the powder coaters.
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I’ve turned my attention to the electrics and I’ve started “Ashes fix” on the coils which are in good condition although the HT leads were in a terrible state. As mentioned in the procedure the outer insulation of each HT lead was hard and two of the inner conductors had broken. The coils cleaned up well and the leads were exposed in no time at all using a rasp. Now I know that the coils are good I’ll go ahead and order some epoxy from RS.
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Worthwhile job on the coils! Having done three sets of coils now I had a couple of leads that just fell out of the ends of the moulding. Interesting how the lower coil in your pic the ht lead snakes in a s formation, must have been the end of a roll before moulding applied during moulding process?
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I think you’re right. It’s not obvious in the photo but the lead was in a very shallow spiral path.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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A few updates. I’ve soldered new HT leads in the coils and completed encapsulation with the recommended RS epoxy. Just need to cosmetically finish them off with some Milliput. I was concerned about too much heat input when soldering and used fine nosed pliers as a heat sink. The epoxy took a couple of days to harden fully, not helped by relatively low overnight temperatures in the garage. Final electrical tests confirmed the coils have survived my efforts.
The powder coated brake and sprocket plates have arrived back but I’m still waiting for a rear sprocket which should finally arrive later today. The stock size seems to be in short supply with plenty advertised on eBay but which become out of stock when you order. My first order did not appear and I had to cancel and get a refund. The next supplier claimed 10 available but subsequently had “a stock Issue” now promised today.
My gauges arrived back this morning from Peter Horton who has done a fantastic job. I couldn’t resist a quick look on the bike, they really do look brand new.
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I sent them to Peter because I could see traces of oil droplets inside the glasses. Peter found that the grease had solidified and the mileage counter wheels had stuck together which in operation would have stripped the gears or snapped the drive cable.
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Just took delivery of my rear sprocket and it isn’t the correct one! I got mixed up in my earlier post, the sprocket that’s arrived today is from Wemoto which I ordered after the eBay episode.
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It’s out of stock at DS and CMS. I tried two suppliers on eBay, one has no stock despite listing the item. The other reported “stock issues” after I asked for a refund and then a day later promised delivery for next week. The item is now apparently on its way. I feel a saga coming on….
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Just took delivery of my rear sprocket and it isn’t the correct one! I got mixed up in my earlier post, the sprocket that’s arrived today is from Wemoto which I ordered after the eBay episode.
(Attachment Link)
It’s out of stock at DS and CMS. I tried two suppliers on eBay, one has no stock despite listing the item. The other reported “stock issues” after I asked for a refund and then a day later promised delivery for next week. The item is now apparently on its way. I feel a saga coming on….
I feel your pain, I've been waiting two weeks for spark plugs that were advertised as in-stock but so far nowhere to be seen!
Was the old sprocket worn out? I was lucky with Ratty because although the drive chain was seized solid the rear sprocket was perfect apart from the PO having it chrome plated! I had that removed and it was refinished in BZP and it has come out like new.
I think we are both in the same place with our builds. Every time I think I am on the home straight I go to fit another part and I find something else is missing, currently waiting for the two long hex nut studs that hold the headlamp frame to the top yoke. These are due next week.
This is the story when you buy someone else's idea of what they think a bike should look like including pod filters, black painted engine, chrome sprockets and engine plates, fiamm horns, wide wheel rims, cow horn handlebars etc. The result is all the small but expensive and difficult to get parts would be thrown in the bin years ago! It's all thanks to the great people on this forum that Ratty will live again as a 400/4 and not end it's days unloved in a shed.
As for Peter Horton, the man is an absolute guru and a wizard when it comes to restoring our clocks. I can't believe how he brought my clocks back from the dead and converted the rev counter to a 400/4 item from the 250 item I gave him👍.
Good luck with your continuing restoration, it's obviously going to be a great bike when it's finished and looking forward to seeing the finished result 👍.
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I feel your pain, I've been waiting two weeks for spark plugs that were advertised as in-stock but so far nowhere to be seen!
Was the old sprocket worn out? I was lucky with Ratty because although the drive chain was seized solid the rear sprocket was perfect apart from the PO having it chrome plated! I had that removed and it was refinished in BZP and it has come out like new.
The old sprocket was worn, corroded and was in overall poor condition. I didn't want to use it with a new chain and front sprocket - rightly or (probably) wrongly I slung it. I'll have to wait and see if the other one due next week is ok. And yes the simplest little brackets and fasteners are like hens teeth.