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Messages - gtmdriver
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136
« on: December 20, 2016, 08:33:19 AM »
4 into 1 won't help much kev, these things are slooooow.
Yes but they're much more involving to ride and sound great on 4 separate pipes.
137
« on: December 20, 2016, 08:30:13 AM »
The problem is that, since lithium batteries are a relatively new innovation the rectifier/ regulator units, either combined or separate, are not designed to meet their very specific charging requirements.
The set-up on my Moto Guzzi was so crude that it even fried an AGM battery on a continental tour.
If you want reliable performance go for an AGM type. They give you mounting options but unfortunately they are no smaller than a standard wet type lead/acid battery.
138
« on: December 19, 2016, 09:58:58 AM »
I'm not sure that you'll find any that will.
Lithium batteries tend to be very finicky about the charging rate, which is why you need a specialist charger for them.
139
« on: December 18, 2016, 05:08:56 PM »
I got the Electrex World version for my CB350F and it came with all the correct connectors to plug straight into the OEM harness.
It did not, however, come with any instructions, hints, pictures or clues as to how to mount it. It does not fit on the original mounting brackets, but I don't think any of the other combined units do either.
So far it is working fine on my Motobatt AGM battery.
140
« on: December 14, 2016, 11:35:50 PM »
I had them off the bike for servicing so I synched them on the bench using a 3mm drill under the throttle slide on the engine side of the carbs When I fitted them and fired the bike up with the vac gauges connected only one of them needed a minor tweak for them all to be spot on.
Don't forget that balancing the carbs is the last thing you do after setting the ignition timing and the valve clearances. If either of these are out you won't get them to synch correctly.
141
« on: November 27, 2016, 12:53:42 PM »
It's a known issue that some of the non-OEM rebuild kits are not exactly to spec but a difference of 0.3mm in the needle valve seat length is not massively significant and should be compensated for when you set the float heights.
I synchronised my carbs on the bench using a 1/8" drill under the throttle slides on the engine side of the carb and when I fitted them and set up the vac gauges they were already near enough to run. Only one of them needed a tiny tweak on the adjusting screw on top of the carb.
142
« on: November 04, 2016, 08:07:22 AM »
I painted my Moto Guzzi engine with POR15 engine enamel. It is available from Frost Restoration.
I degreased the parts with Jizer, took the corrosion off using Machine Marts own alloy cleaner, gave all the casings a full hot cycle in the dishwasher then treated them with POR15 Metal Ready.
The paint is quite thick and didn't brush on well but I thinned it with white spirits and it sprayed on very nicely. In the 6 years I owned the Guzzi it stayed on perfectly and resisted petrol, degreasing solvents and, on one traumatic occasion, battery acid.
As soon as Photobucket sorts itself out I will post before and after pictures.
143
« on: October 20, 2016, 04:34:19 PM »
I sold he bike a couple of months ago and the paint was still intact after 6 years of use which included petrol spills, acid spills and fairly regular cleaning with Jizer and Muc-Off.
144
« on: October 19, 2016, 04:15:30 PM »
I used POR15 engine enamel on my Moto Guzzi. it stayed on very well even resisting the acid from a split battery,   I degreased every part, cleaned them with Machine Mart's alloy cleaner, gave them a good going over in the dishwasher, treated them with POR15 Metal Ready then sprayed them with the POR15 engine enamel thinned slightly with white spirits.
145
« on: October 19, 2016, 09:06:14 AM »
Donation sent.
146
« on: October 15, 2016, 03:31:33 PM »
The gum and varnish will dissolve in cellulose thinners. Much cheaper than carb cleaner aerosols but basically the same solvent.
147
« on: October 09, 2016, 01:28:42 PM »
I had problems with the indicators flashing slowly at low engine revs and more rapidly as the revs increased since the output of the alternator varies with engine speed and a normal flasher unit is voltage/current dependent so I fitted a Universal Electronic Flasher relay from car Builder Solutions. These have a higher current capacity than a normal electronic unit and will work with led's or filament bulbs. They flash at a constant speed regardless of the supply voltage and it has solved the problem completely. The have 2 terminals so you leave the earth wire disconnected. They are larger than the stock Honda unit but will still fit under the side panel. http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/2-pin-electronic-flasher-relay
148
« on: October 08, 2016, 09:50:07 PM »
I fitted this 'Universal' rack to my CB350F.  It's not the highest quality but it fitted well. It was £45 on eBay.
149
« on: August 09, 2016, 08:06:39 AM »
I think Ash was referring to the prices of genuine coils at D.S. not the pattern ones!
Fair enough, but my advice would still be to check the primary resistance of any coils that you buy before fitting them to the bike. Even quoted figures are not always true. I spent quite a while trying to find a set of 4ohm coils for my Moto Guzzi and had to return a couple of pairs of '4ohm' coils before I got a pair that actually were as described.
150
« on: August 05, 2016, 03:11:32 PM »
I bought a pair of the DS coils for my CB350F and, fortunately, I checked them out before fitting. They were only 2 ohm primary resistance. I ended up having to fit a pair of ballast resistors in the power feed to the coils in order to use them on my Boyer system.  To be honest I wouldn't even use 2 ohm coils in a 12v contact breaker system. The extra current will cause the points to arc and burn much quicker than they should.
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