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Messages - gtmdriver

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166
CB500/550 / Re: Cleaning rear hub
« on: June 14, 2016, 08:24:55 AM »
I've always had good results using Wonder Wheels.

167
CB500/550 / Re: Electronic ignition
« on: June 10, 2016, 04:34:01 PM »
This is a copy of the original instructions.



and this is the reply I got after enquiring about suitability for the 350/4

"Hi. Could you tell me whether the KIT00089 designed for the Honda 400/4 will also fit the very similar CB350F 350/4 which was its contemporary everywhere but the UK?

Hi, If it fires the same (has the same degrees for firing) and is also a single cam, then yes it should be fine. Regards Stuart


As standard it has two contact breakers set 180o apart with a single cam running at crankshaft speed. It uses the wasted spark system to fire two cylinders together.
I guess the only unknown is whether the ignition advance curve built into your system will also suit the 350.

I have found these figures in a genuine Honda service manual.

Honda CB350F centrifugal ignition advance
Start of ignition advance 1400 – 1600 rpm
Full advance reached 2300 – 2500 rpm
Advance angle 23.5o – 26.5o

Are these anything like the advance curve built into the KIT00089 electronic replacement?

Hi John, It sounds like it should be ok. The total advance should cover the 350.The system will run standard 4 ohm dual coils and will need 5k ohms plug caps, should already be on the machine.

t looks like the start of advance is ok, and the system will cover the fully advance figure. Our system reaches fully advance at around 3,500 rpm."




When I found that the DSS replacement coils were only 2 ohm I phoned BB and they told me I would need to run with ballast resistors.

...and this is how I fitted them.



This is the wiring diagram without ballast resistors.





168
CB500/550 / Re: Electronic ignition
« on: June 08, 2016, 06:13:26 PM »
As far as I know, and I'm open to correction, the same unit fits all the early inline 4's. I'm using the Boyer unit on my CB350F.

Interestingly the Boyer system fires all 4 plugs together.

You also need to make sure the ignition coils have a primary resistance of at least 4 ohms.

169
CB350/400 / Re: Black NGK plug caps
« on: June 08, 2016, 09:20:22 AM »
The NGK codes are shown on the DSS webpages for the relevant plug caps.

On the 350 four 1 and 4 caps are VD05F and 2 and 3 caps are XD05F. It seems to be the same for the 400. They are also showing as in stock.

Be careful with the coils supplied by DSS. The ones I received were only 2 ohm primary resistance instead of the OEM coils 4 ohms. You can get away with this if you have contact breakers although they will burn and pit quicker due to the higher current. I have Boyer electronic ignition which specifies a minimum of 4 ohm coil resistance so I ended up having to wire ballast resistors in series with each coil.

170
CB350/400 / Re: Unleaded Fuel
« on: June 05, 2016, 09:52:49 AM »
There are lots of anti biker laws waiting to be forced upon us if we stay in, but that's another discussion entirely!

It's not an anti-biker law. It affects cars too.

I have always run kit cars and they tend to be based on older donor vehicles.

I'm currently running a car based on a 1970 VW Beetle and I'm having exactly the same issues as I have with my 1974 CB350F.

171
CB350/400 / Re: Unleaded Fuel
« on: May 24, 2016, 02:41:30 PM »
Using specific fuel blends known to be Ethanol free is perfect if you can be sure that one of their outlets will always be available when you need to fill up.

I carry a bottle of Frost Ethomix with me in case I have no choice but to use E5 or E10. It is one of the few additives that was found to be effective when tested by the FBHVC. Sadly it can't protect the flexible pipes and other non metallic parts but it does prevent corrosion of the steel, alloy and brass components.

172
Other Bikes / Re: Suzuki GT750
« on: May 06, 2016, 11:10:46 PM »
I was looking at one a while back and was advised to take it out for a hard run then look for oil around the breather hole on top of the gearbox.

If the crank seals have worn or dried out it pressurises the gearbox and blows out some oil apparently.

173
CB500/550 / Re: Setting timing on a piranha ignition
« on: April 25, 2016, 09:17:43 AM »
This is from the NewTronics (formerly Piranha) website.

Q: How do I time up my new ignition system?

Timing your new ignition system is the same as for points - consult your  manual.

When timing the engine, you should be out of direct bright light, and when timed up, all covers need to be replaced on the engine before it is taken outside and run, or it will not run correctly. The triggers/pick-ups in the system use infra-red light, and an outside source of light will interfere with them.

When timing a two stroke that has the timing marks near where the triggers are located, the static method should be used, preferably with a dial gauge for accuracy. Using a strobe light can cause false readings, as the strobe will be shining on the triggers. A strobe light is only necessary for engines that have a mechanical advance and retard system and not for 2 strokes, which nearly always fire at the same point throughout the revs.

174
CB500/550 / Re: Setting timing on a piranha ignition
« on: April 25, 2016, 09:12:19 AM »
I would think that you would be OK as long as you don't point the strobe beam into the optical units on the backplate.

175
CB350/400 / Brake master cylinder. Rebuild oem or pattern?
« on: April 05, 2016, 11:20:04 AM »
My 1974 CB350F could do with some work on the front brakes.

Pacre Classic are selling pattern replacement master cylinders for £56 or so.

Does anyone have any experience with this component or the company in general?

Are these parts any good or should I rebuild my 42 year old component?

176
CB500/550 / Re: Feeler Gauge
« on: March 28, 2016, 10:23:27 AM »
I bought some shim steel strips in the correct sizes from eBay.

177
CB350/400 / R/H exhaust bracket needed.
« on: March 23, 2016, 01:26:27 PM »
Has anybody got an offside (R/H) exhaust bracket for a CB350F that they would be prepared to sell?

178
CB350/400 / Re: 400/4 Forks
« on: March 20, 2016, 05:29:35 PM »
Should you choose to risk it the recommended technique is to use grease on the drill bit to collect the swarf but I've never had much faith in this method. Personally I'd pull off the fork slider.

179
CB750 / Re: Carb synchronising issues
« on: March 04, 2016, 04:41:55 PM »
So could it be the gauge extension that is causing the problem then?

I can't imagine that an engine could be so worn on every cylinder that it would have absolutely zero compression pressure.

180
CB350/400 / Re: Wheel Bearing Removal
« on: March 04, 2016, 09:51:27 AM »
If they have grease seals on both sides then they obviously need no additional grease.

When you drift them it try to drift on the outer race not the inner. A big socket is handy here, or even the old bearing.

Don't forget the spacer!

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