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Messages - Dave487
1
« on: March 29, 2019, 08:13:41 PM »
I fitted Avon Roadriders on my 400 a couple of years ago and found them to be ok although I don't tend to go out when it's wet. I've just fitted Roadriders to the CX500 I'm currently restoring which has Comstars.
2
« on: February 14, 2019, 09:01:52 PM »
I think you'll always get black sooty plugs if you're just checking them after idling as they don't hot enough to burn it off.
3
« on: June 15, 2018, 09:20:54 PM »
Check where the 3 yellows exit from alternator cover. I recently had a similar problem and one of 3 had gone to earth at the bullet connector close to the cover and melted the plastic insulators on all 3. I fitted new connectors and all is well.
4
« on: December 30, 2017, 05:44:42 PM »
I did buy a couple of new ones from DS because 2 were badly scored and I'm pretty sure they were copper. Anyway Julie if they're copper and in good condition then anneal them if they're steel just use them again. Replace the Dowty seals of course.
5
« on: December 29, 2017, 03:57:19 PM »
The copper ones on my engine are pure copper so I annealed them by heating to red hot then plunging in water. It seemed to work ok as I don't have any leaks (yet)
6
« on: December 12, 2017, 10:23:38 PM »
I have a metal based seat from DS and it seems ok after a year or so. I also bought a stencil off ebay and used my BMW titanium silver. It looks ok to me but the original seat was trashed so I didn't have a comparison.
7
« on: December 12, 2017, 10:13:03 PM »
I think Clem2112 has got a point all the gears including the main clutch drive have straight cut teeth and the large gear on the clutch basket has a bit of play so it may not mesh correctly with the drive gear. I'm not quite sure how this can be corrected without new parts.
8
« on: December 12, 2017, 02:03:46 PM »
As I said on the previous post I took it all apart, replaced the primary chain and cush drive rubbers and made a new bush for the first gear pinion, I also managed to source a better bottom primary chain guide and I re-checked all bearing races in the gearbox but couldn't find a noisy one.
I had previously changed complete clutch for one with less play in the clutch damper but I can't find any replacement damper rubbers at the moment.
None of this made a significant improvement to the transmission whine but it did give confidence that I'd done it right the first time. I've done about 400miles since re-assembling it and don't really worry about it anymore although I may take the clutch cover off during the winter have another look at the clutch drive gears (ie. checking for correct meshing etc.) as I still suspect that the noise is somewhere in the clutch drive.
I've dismantled the old clutch by drilling out the rivets but the damper rubbers are an awkward shape to make and really need to be moulded. I was in contact with TTR400 some time ago but he doesn't have any stock now so anyone has a source of supply please let us know.
9
« on: November 13, 2017, 05:23:26 PM »
I have the same problem on my 400. Ok to about 5000rpm then it goes unstable, I haven't really done anything about it yet, but thought that it coincides with a bit of vibration coming through the handlebars.
I assumed this is upsetting the instrument and am planning to try new rubber dampers first.
10
« on: October 24, 2017, 06:26:33 PM »
That looks superb !!!!!
11
« on: October 19, 2017, 08:06:51 PM »
I always use BP Ultimate on the 400-4, but tend to use supermarket diesel in the car but then put the odd tankful of Shell or BP premium in.
12
« on: October 19, 2017, 06:28:30 PM »
The little Honda handbook says to use a high detergent oil to meet or exceed the requirements for 'Service SE'. with a viscosity of SAE20 or SAE20W for winter. Or a multigrade SAE 10W-40. The service SE spec is for petrol engines made before 1979 and has been superceded several time to meet the requirements of modern engines and fuels and is now up to service SN. This could be quite important now that we are forced to use fuels with 5% or more ethanol. The link below is quite interesting. http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oils/oil_quality_ratings.htm
13
« on: October 14, 2017, 08:31:52 PM »
Don't do what I did and fit the restrictors wrong way up, they get bent and when you try to straighten them they break.
They have to go with stem downward.
Luckily I was just doing a dry assembly so spotted it.
14
« on: August 04, 2017, 04:33:47 PM »
I'm still concerned about the whining transmission which seems to be getting worse, particularly on overrun. If I pull the clutch and stop the engine the noise changes so I think it's likely to be on the primary drive.
I'm so bothered by it that I've split the cases again to have another look.
There's nothing obvious but a few things may be contributing.
1) The bush on first gear is a bit worn which allows the gear float about and touch the mating one. So I'll replace it.
2) Hi-Vo chain appears to be ok (see photo) but I'll replace it anyway this time.
3) The cush drive rubbers in the primary gear have a bit of slack but are very hard, not sure how soft new ones come but I'll replace them anyway.
4) My main concern are the primary chain guides as these are very hard and worn at the ends particularly the bottom one(see photo) but the chain is not touching the attachment screws. I could make new ones out of Nylon66 or Tufnol but the originals have a metal backing even though they're like a brittle plastic.
Does anyone know what a new one feels like, are they like a neoprene rubber or more like nylon?. I can't a find source of replacements at the moment.
Maybe I'm a bit fussy having never ridden another one, but a bit concerned about something locking up and chucking me down the road.
15
« on: June 06, 2017, 12:32:04 PM »
I tested chain as Hairy suggested (learned from a previous post) but maybe it would have been better to have replaced it anyway. However I still think its the clutch gears not meshing properly and intent to buy another clutch unit complete, de-rivet it and try to replace the cush drive.
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