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Messages - kent400
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226
« on: December 30, 2011, 06:18:09 PM »
Two tea spoons under the needle boss and resting on the dial face securing screws. Equal pressure on both sides to ensure the needle spindle isn't bent. Not sure about attacking the band with a Dremel, an email address would bring you a restoration guide in PDF for these instruments.
227
« on: December 14, 2011, 05:46:05 PM »
There are some images posted on Silver's facebook pages of all those 400 fours and parts removed for replating. It's also mentioned that they are still buying them and are now close to 50! Some of the bikes seem to be fairly good examples, must have been quite an investment here.
228
« on: December 12, 2011, 03:04:48 PM »
Just had an email from DS, a follow on the recent request 'sell me your 400f. Apparently he's bought 40, yes folks forty! My first thoughts were must be a typo. We all know restoring one is a challenge but 40. phew! He's now asking for parts that can be restored or new. The rational behind this is difficult to comprehend but I suppose the plan is sell them once restored, most of us know they are a money pit so I can't see a profit there. I sent an email concerning restoration of the instruments but could I cope with 40 pairs, that would take me a year!
229
« on: November 27, 2011, 11:36:09 AM »
I have a 4.5 litre heated ultra sonic cleaner with a timer purchased from ebay a few years ago. I've only ever cleaned one pair of carbs although all sorts of other things. It works well. When I cleaned the carbs I used a specially formulated solution for carb cleaning. I completely dismantled the carbs, put the jets and other small parts in a separate pot in the tank. It's surprising how much muck you find in the bottom of the tank when the process is finished when you thought what you put in the tank was fairly clean. There do make quite a bit of noise or at least mine does.
230
« on: November 23, 2011, 11:07:25 PM »
Having seen the state of that filter it might be a good move to drop the sump, clean it out togther with the oil strainer. Quite easy to do with the aid of a 3/8th drive socket.
231
« on: November 18, 2011, 08:35:30 PM »
I'm assuming that this trip knob is on the back of instrument and is secured to the shaft with a tiny cross head screw. Very difficult to remove the tiny screw and easily broken. Faced with a missing knob and the remains of the broken screw in the trip shaft I used a small radio knob. That had a screw in the side of the knob to secure it on the shaft so that resolved the broken screw in the shaft problem. Not sure were I found the knob now. O.K. it wasn't original but it worked, well it's better to have a non-original knob that no knob at all! I know Radio Spares stock a range of knobs so that might be one place to look.
232
« on: July 23, 2011, 09:01:24 PM »
That's O.K, Steve, I try to keep a low profile! I've perfected a technique and made tooling to remove/refit the band around most of the instruments fitted to the SOHC fours. I work full-time so a pair a month is enough! Quite happy to provide advice to anyone who is contemplating restoring their instruments.
233
« on: July 20, 2011, 06:33:25 PM »
I restore the 400f instruments, in fact on the 5/6/10 I emailed you a instrument restoration guide on the subject as requested that I have written. I assume at that time you were considering a DIY job on yours. If I can assist further PM me.
234
« on: June 01, 2011, 05:52:53 PM »
Looks like just a blanking cap over the kick start shaft and with a grub screw securing it on the shaft. You should just be able to remove it and fit a kick start lever. The lever isn't the same as any other SOHC models other than perhaps the CB350f. They do turn up on ebay but tend to sell for quite a high price.
As for the cam chain, great care is needed with the adjuster bolt. They easily broken, only attempt it when the engine is hot and after a good dose of releasing fluid. That's very important if you suspect it's not been adjusted for years. I have some very usefull info on cam chain adjustment that will help you understand how it works. PM me with your email if you think that would help.
235
« on: March 07, 2011, 10:59:42 PM »
Ash, unfortunately I don't have the article in pdf format so can't email it, however I've emailed a guide for the CB400f/500f type that is in pdf.
236
« on: February 28, 2011, 08:29:56 PM »
There was an article in the December issue of the VJMC magazine on the subject of restoring CB750f instruments. As steff750 pointed out they are easy to take apart but not so easy to get back together. The article illustrates a very effective method to refit the band. Whilst the link posted to the U.S site interesting there are some omissions
If you can borrow a copy of the magazine I'm sure that would help. If you get stuck pm me and I'll see what I can sort out for you
237
« on: January 05, 2011, 10:51:35 PM »
Laverda used the same instruments on serveral seventies machines so the jewels would fit those also and possibly the same size dial faces, although some had the Laverda motif on them and some did not. The neutral and flash jewels are the same as those fitted to CB250 tachos and others. So the market for the jewels might extend to a few other machines.
238
« on: October 26, 2010, 09:40:19 PM »
Looks like the same product as I use but less money! Clearly someone is making a good profit
239
« on: October 26, 2010, 08:22:39 PM »
I use this silicone damping fluid, ebay item number 290489033958. Quite expensive but there's enough to fill dozens of dampers. The instruments should always be stored face up. If you have ever seen a new boxed instrument there's a label on it stating 'store face up'. I have had a few new old stock instruments that have not been stored correctly and the fluid has found it's way onto the face. I've managed to remove the fluid from the face using a spray glass cleaner, the type used for spectacles. Great care is needed but it did make a significant improvement. The effectiveness of this method may depend on the face colour, the particular one I recall had a black face.
It's interesting to note that some instruments of the same still age retain their damping, some don't and without any evidence of leakage onto the face.
240
« on: October 13, 2010, 06:44:27 AM »
The trip grommet was never available as a separate part, however I do have an an alternative. It's a cable grommet and a sleeve that goes on the shaft. It works well and keeps the wet out. Does not look the same of course but many have been fitted without a problem. Send me a pm if you want one, I'm sure I have an image of a speedo with this grommet fitted.
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